Back to detailing after 10 years

Nutdotnet

New member
Howdy!

I just picked up a phantom metal (grey metallic) Kia Stinger. Overall good shape but has the typical dealer swirls.

I have a number of products from at least 7+ years ago, and most seem fine. But I’m also not 100% the life span of polishes and the like.

My goal is to clean, remove iron, clay, remove swirls, and, for now, apply a ceramic hybrid wax.

I have a flex 3401 and it sounds like LC’s Hybrid PAFs are the way to go.

I’m set with the prep products, but am looking for some recommendations on polishes.

I’ve read good things about meguair’s DA products. Both the microfiber specific and M110 and M210. However, I’m not planning on using microfiber pads. Would these still be a good choice for the LC pads?

I’m hoping to be able to knock out the defects in one stage but would like to have some options ready at my disposal just in case.

Any suggestions or advice? I’m not a brand snob. Griots? Adams? Optimum?

Thanks!


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Howdy!

I just picked up a phantom metal (grey metallic) Kia Stinger. Overall good shape but has the typical dealer swirls.

I have a number of products from at least 7+ years ago, and most seem fine. But I’m also not 100% the life span of polishes and the like.

My goal is to clean, remove iron, clay, remove swirls, and, for now, apply a ceramic hybrid wax.

I have a flex 3401 and it sounds like LC’s Hybrid PAFs are the way to go.

I’m set with the prep products, but am looking for some recommendations on polishes.

I’ve read good things about meguair’s DA products. Both the microfiber specific and M110 and M210. However, I’m not planning on using microfiber pads. Would these still be a good choice for the LC pads?

I’m hoping to be able to knock out the defects in one stage but would like to have some options ready at my disposal just in case.

Any suggestions or advice? I’m not a brand snob. Griots? Adams? Optimum?

Thanks!


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Welcome back.

M110/M210 are great with any pad. Two great products from Meguiar’s.
 
Nutdotnet- Welcome back!

I wouldn`t assume that your old polishes are not good; the vast majority of mine are well over a decade old. For that matter, hardly *any* of my Detailing products ever go bad, basically just doesn`t happen. SO I`d check out what you have on the shelf first, maybe you don`t really need much new stuff after all.

Though FWIW, I`ve *NEVER* been able to get a ready-to-wax finish with my Flex3401, it just doesn`t finish out all that well. And I suspect that I work on much harder paints than your Stinger has.

If you do want/need to go with new stuff, I`d keep it simple and go Griot`s.

BTW, *GREAT* choice of car! I bet you`re gonna just love it.
 
Nutdotnet- Welcome back!

I wouldn`t assume that your old polishes are not good; the vast majority of mine are well over a decade old. For that matter, hardly *any* of my Detailing products ever go bad, basically just doesn`t happen. SO I`d check out what you have on the shelf first, maybe you don`t really need much new stuff after all.

Though FWIW, I`ve *NEVER* been able to get a ready-to-wax finish with my Flex3401, it just doesn`t finish out all that well. And I suspect that I work on much harder paints than your Stinger has.

If you do want/need to go with new stuff, I`d keep it simple and go Griot`s.

BTW, *GREAT* choice of car! I bet you`re gonna just love it.

Thanks! Yeah, I’m super pumped with the car. Kind of a crazy story too. I originally picked up a black one, which looked fine until the next day and was in the sun. Holy moly - the paintwork was a mess and had a couple pin-hole sized dents.

The dealership was great though and let me swap it out with this phantom grey. Paint still isn’t great, ie. Lots of swirls, but it’s in much better condition.

I was thinking of going Griots since its readily available. What about Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Polish?

How are the griots pads? I’ve always used LC, but again, the griot pads are available locally.

Really, the only thing I haven’t been able to find is an iron remover - I’d love to find one locally.


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Nutdotnet- I`ve never used the GG stuff, but maybe somebody who has will chime it. I suggested it because everybody who *has* used it seems to like it fine. Sorry I can`t be of more real help :(

My concerns with Meguiar`s are always related to their Trade Secret Oils, which I find a huge PIA compared to other product lines. But it`s sure not like they make *bad* stuff or anything...and I do *really* like their M101 for (very) aggressive work.


Oh, and... !oh man! do I think you made a good decision trading the black one for the gray! I even think it`ll look *better* in that color as it will better show off the styling. Easier to live with too ;)
 
Welcome back. I still like LC pads, price-point being part of the reason. Plus they do everything I ask of them. Yeah, I talk to pads.
 
Out of curiosity (and I’ll search), is there an opinion on the Meguairs Soft Buff Pads? With the flex?

As much as I like to support other vendors, I live in Alaska and shipping is a pain. As much stuff that I can buy via Amazon the better.


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Griots Fast Correcting Cream is great.

I hear M110 dusts still even though it`s better than M105. I hate using products that make a mess while polishing.

I`ve never had a problem with my 3401 finishing or the new cordless XCE but I do have the Flex cordless XFE 15 and enjoy using it too. I`ve been using it to finish on 2 step corrections.

Right now I`m doing a 2 step correction with my XFE 15, Lake Country HDO microfiber cutting pad and Fast Correcting Cream. I`ll follow it up with either M210 or Perfecting Cream with a Uro-tec yellow polishing pad on the XFE.

If using the 6.5" pads on the 3401 it`s hard to go wrong with the Lake Country Hybrid Force pads (orange and white pads).
 
Hey, thanks!

I do have the 4 and 3/8” adapter for small pads on the flex. I was thinking about going with the smaller hybrid pads. I think they’re 5”?


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Check out what Mike has to say about pads.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...mendations-please.html?highlight=#post1680614

T

I was thinking of going Griots since its readily available. What about Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Polish?

Really, the only thing I haven’t been able to find is an iron remover - I’d love to find one locally.

The Megs ultimate duo are fine and can create great results. If you want to pick up something locally you can pick them up or pick up M205 instead of ultimate polish.

If you want to invest in their newer technology then invest in M110/M210. I don`t know about dusting because I have had zero with either product.
 
Check out what Mike has to say about pads.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...mendations-please.html?highlight=#post1680614



The Megs ultimate duo are fine and can create great results. If you want to pick up something locally you can pick them up or pick up M205 instead of ultimate polish.

If you want to invest in their newer technology then invest in M110/M210. I don`t know about dusting because I have had zero with either product.

Hey thanks! I actually have some 105 and 205 right now. I have to buy pads anyway so if there’s something worth a try (easy to use and effective) then I’m all for giving it a go.

From what I’m reading from Mike. Stick with the 6.5 inch pads. I was thinking the smaller pads would help on some of the smaller and/or trickier areas (like where there’s a lot of body lines). But Mike’s a pro. I’m not. :)


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The Griots yellow bottle compound at Autozone works great by machine. It doesn`t dust and finishes out nice. Foolproof.

It isn`t that Meguiars makes bad stuff but I think they are overrated.
 
Hey, thanks!

I do have the 4 and 3/8” adapter for small pads on the flex. I was thinking about going with the smaller hybrid pads. I think they’re 5”?


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I`d stick with 6.5" pads on the 3401. The alternate backing plates seemed cheap to me when I had them for my 3401.

Unless you have a Flex factory equivalent smaller plate (can`t recall if they made one or not). But then there`s still really no point IMO since the Flex has no problem spinning 6.5" pads.

Now if you had multiple machines and wanted to standardize on pad size that would make sense. 5" plates on free spinning tools are very common. In that case I would go with buff and shine Uro-tec pads. I think they call them 6" pads but have 5" backing.
 
I`d stick with 6.5" pads on the 3401. The alternate backing plates seemed cheap to me when I had them for my 3401.

Unless you have a Flex factory equivalent smaller plate (can`t recall if they made one or not). But then there`s still really no point IMO since the Flex has no problem spinning 6.5" pads.

Now if you had multiple machines and wanted to standardize on pad size that would make sense. 5" plates on free spinning tools are very common. In that case I would go with buff and shine Uro-tec pads. I think they call them 6" pads but have 5" backing.

Excellent! I have the Flex official smaller backing plate. But I’ll stick with the larger pads.

Just a couple more questions - with the long weekend I’m hoping to be able to do some work - so I’m trying to find as much locally as possible.

Pads - I found my old pads, which are still in really good shape. They’re the LC Flat Pads. I have orange, white, cyan? (Green?), Black, and one red. Any reason why I shouldn’t use the flat pads with the flex? This is actually my first time using the flex for a whole car.

Lighting - my garage is a mess so I’ll be doing this outside. I used to use that Brinkmen Xenon light from many moons ago but the battery is a goner. Is there any sort of lighting at the typical big box stores that may work for paint inspection?

Prep - I tracked down some iron remover. And I have plenty of clay. I always used to use a 50/50 mix of distilled water and IPA to clean panels after polishing but am seeing these pre-made options. This is one that I haven’t been able to track down locally. Anything wrong with the 50/50 approach?

I’m going to snag some of the griots compound and their polish to try too...I can also get my hands on MG’s 300 and 301 DA polishes but since I’m not planning on using microfiber I don’t know if it’s worth it.

Another reason for my questions is after I get my car done I’ll be doing the same for my wife, which is much older and needs a lot more work to be done.

Thanks again everyone!!!!


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Out of curiosity (and I’ll search), is there an opinion on the Meguairs Soft Buff Pads? With the flex?

I`ve only used the Maroon Cutting Pads with mine since I don`t even try to finish with it any more. Those pads work great with the Flex 3401 if you need something really aggressive. They`re a huge PIA to clean compared to MF though.
 
As far as lighting goes, LED work lights have all but replaced Xenon, much like LED headlights are replacing HIDs in new vehicles.
I bought a cheap one at Sam`s Club, the PowerGlow 3500 lumen LED work light with BOTH adjustable brightness intensity and light hue color (the Kelvin number), but it is no longer offered. Sure beats the halogens and the heat they used to throw off .
If you can afford it, SCANGRIP detailing LED lighting are the way to go. Like many things, you get what you pay for.
 
Pads - I found my old pads, which are still in really good shape. They’re the LC Flat Pads. I have orange, white, cyan? (Green?), Black, and one red. Any reason why I shouldn’t use the flat pads with the flex? This is actually my first time using the flex for a whole car.

Lighting - my garage is a mess so I’ll be doing this outside. I used to use that Brinkmen Xenon light from many moons ago but the battery is a goner. Is there any sort of lighting at the typical big box stores that may work for paint inspection?

Prep - I tracked down some iron remover. And I have plenty of clay. I always used to use a 50/50 mix of distilled water and IPA to clean panels after polishing but am seeing these pre-made options. This is one that I haven’t been able to track down locally. Anything wrong with the 50/50 approach?

I’m going to snag some of the griots compound and their polish to try too...I can also get my hands on MG’s 300 and 301 DA polishes but since I’m not planning on using microfiber I don’t know if it’s worth it.

Your pads should work just fine. As long as you have enough of each type you plan on using.

For lighting just make sure whatever light source you get doesn`t "flood" the surface. You want a light to will allow you to see the reflection of the light so you can see the defects. I`m sure local home centers would have something that might work.

There are many prep sprays. Your 50/50 IPA will work, but google the risks. It`s not exactly a smooth wipe off. You might be able to get Kleanstrip Prep-All at a local auto parts store.
 
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