Autoglym Bird Poo Research

That was in my Finish Kare days.

The 2180 is 218 Polywipe with a small percentage of a telefluromer resin added. (think my spelling is off on that one)

Both of them have a shorter than normal shelf life due to the emulisfer used.

Also, keep them out of high heat storage areas and never allow to freeze or they are toast.

Grumpy
 
After having a look at the scientific article mentioning the enzymes amylase and lipase, I remembered that these very same enzymes are part of human saliva (more here Saliva - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia).



So perhaps our saliva could act as bird poo if left long enough on paint. If I had a scrap panel I would definitely do a test for the fun of it. Perhaps someone with a panel can do it and let us know the outcome.
 
Ch96067 said:
After having a look at the scientific article mentioning the enzymes amylase and lipase, I remembered that these very same enzymes are part of human saliva (more here Saliva - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia).



So perhaps our saliva could act as bird poo if left long enough on paint. If I had a scrap panel I would definitely do a test for the fun of it. Perhaps someone with a panel can do it and let us know the outcome.
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Saliva although a fairly strong enzyme is not as acidic (for most of us anyway) as bird excrement
 
yakky said:
I think the key here is an enzymatic reaction. While most paints and LSPs are acid resistant, nothing seems impervious to bird poo and eggs. Bugs also create enzyme based etching. Some of my research has indicated that bird poo isn't extremely acidic.



While I agree that bird poo varies greatly, the fact that a synthetic substance is available to test with changes things greatly for me. While it was certainly possible to gather a bunch of samples of the real thing and mix them together, I would have no guarantee of any sort of reaction.



Ron, I am curious about your research. If you don't mind sharing, what sort of variance did you observe with various LSPs? I have done no repeatable (even semi scientific) research but anecdotal evidence suggests polysiloxane sealants are as prone to etch as clean paint. Carnauba waxes see to offer much more protection for me.
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My experience as well. I used to work in an older part of a city right smack on the shores of Lake Michigan. This city was home to around 600,000 people and around a twice that number of seagulls.The lake was home to millions of Alewives, a delicacy for the gulls. The gulls were literally painting the rooftops in guano. You practically needed boots to walk down the street. I had no choice but to park in an outdoor parking lot and would be out about every hour or two wiping down my daily driver.



I started with sealants (Zaino, NXT, M21, Klasse) and found them useless to protect the paint against this onslaught. I then began topping with Meg's #16, #26, or Collinite 476 and saw much greater protection. I found that the carnauba was only effective for a week or two tops though. This area was surrounded on two sides by expressways, several metal foundries just to the south and a coal fired power plant was a few blocks to the west. I suspect that's why waxes only lasted such a short time but after a couple weeks I needed to reapply the carnauba or I'd see damage.



My experience in this hellish environment was that Carnauba provided a much better defense against the effects of acidic damage. I've taken to topping my daily driver with a Carnauba ever since. Happily, I don't work there any longer. :)
 
jfelbab said:
My experience as well. I used to work in an older part of a city right smack on the shores of Lake Michigan. This city was home to around 600,000 people and around a twice that number of seagulls.The lake was home to millions of Alewives, a delicacy for the gulls. The gulls were literally painting the rooftops in guano. You practically needed boots to walk down the street. I had no choice but to park in an outdoor parking lot and would be out about every hour or two wiping down my daily driver.



I started with sealants (Zaino, NXT, M21, Klasse) and found them useless to protect the paint against this onslaught. I then began topping with Meg's #16, #26, or Collinite 476 and saw much greater protection. I found that the carnauba was only effective for a week or two tops though. This area was surrounded on two sides by expressways, several metal foundries just to the south and a coal fired power plant was a few blocks to the west. I suspect that's why waxes only lasted such a short time but after a couple weeks I needed to reapply the carnauba or I'd see damage.



My experience in this hellish environment was that Carnauba provided a much better defense against the effects of acidic damage. I've taken to topping my daily driver with a Carnauba ever since. Happily, I don't work there any longer. :)
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Interesting. I also find that the protection offered by carnauba is short lived. Your real life test only seems to confirm my theory.
 
Natural carnuba is produced in 4 grades.

The best of the grades has a melt point of around 145F to 150F.

The percentage of carnuba in a product is not as much as one thinks when they see on a label, "contains 100% carnuba", as it is not possible to put much mor than 10% in the product or it would be extremely difficult to apply, but even worse to remove the indicators (haze) that tells one when it is time to do the wipe off.

The low melt or evaporation point is why a natural carnuba does not last long.

However, a German chemical company produces a synthetic carnuba that has a melt point of just over 200F.

That is the carnuba that is used in the Finish Kare 1000P and is why it holds up so well.

The product was formulated for the FRP industry as a mold release product.

This is necessary due to the exotherm of the curing of the catalized resins.

Grumpy
 
jfelbab said:
... I used to work in an older part of a city right smack on the shores of Lake Michigan. This city was home to around 600,000 people and around a twice that number of seagulls..I started with sealants (Zaino, NXT, M21, Klasse) and found them useless to protect the paint against this onslaught. I then began topping with Meg's #16, #26, or Collinite 476 and saw much greater protection
Click to expand...



I find #16 OK for protecting against birdbombs, but it's no miracle worker for me :nixweiss



Collinite 476S is better in this regard, especially when it's fresh. But IME it's simply not in the same league as the FK1000P and KSG.



But sheesh, talk about a "YMMV" topic! I'm not :argue: with you one bit! I bet your frequent reapplications made a good diff.



Ron Ketcham said:
Do seem to recall the 1000P, old standby mold release paste wax did about the best job....
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That's my experience as well. With (layered) FK1000P I can't recall *ever* having birdbombs etch my paint. Ditto for (*heavily* layered) KSG. In fact, I've basically quit bothering to clean them off as it's simply a gamble I'm willing to take. OK, that'll bite me one day, but no problems yet and I don't reapply such things for months at a time.



Now everybody remember that "YMMV" bit; "don't try this at home, kids!" ;) Leaving birdbombs on the paint is just asking for trouble.
 
I recently dug this pin out of my drawer :chuckle:





DSC02361.jpg
 
[ Ditto for (*heavily* layered) KSG. In fact, I've basically quit bothering to clean them off as it's simply a gamble I'm willing to take. OK, that'll bite me one day, but no problems yet and I don't reapply such things for months at a time.]



Protection - an acrylic polymer or polyethylene-acrylic (Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish) are all acid-based so they are more resistant to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) than other polymers
 
TOGWT said:
Protection - an acrylic polymer or polyethylene-acrylic (Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish) are all acid-based so they are more resistant to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) than other polymers
Click to expand...



Isn't DG105 Polyaminosiloxane based?
 
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