Are waxes and sealants obsolete?

[The Guz]

Thank you for the post and mentioning hyper seal. I`ll look into that. If Pinnacle outperformed Gloss Coat, why would you recommend Gloss Coat out of the two choices? Also, since I just got a brand new car, I can`t afford to spend over $1000, in addition to Xpel (that I really want) right now. So, this is just something I want to do the job for a year or so anyway, until I can get something better. As long as it looks good and protects the paint, that`s fine. If there are things I can do to enhance the durability of the product, like hyper seal or even a coating of wax or sealant, I`ll do it.

I`ve decided to go with the $399 coating. It sounds like they know what they`re doing and they`ve been around for a while. The other guy may do good work, but I haven`t had much luck with him the past couple of years. He`s really difficult to get in touch with.

I actually have a paint chip that I need to deal with and allow enough time to dry before making an appointment. The car is a hatchback and on the first day I got it, after I had pulled it into the garage, I didn`t notice until I closed the hatch that it had hit the garage door hinge. I ordered Dr. Colorchip, so we`ll see how that goes.

Knowing what I know now I would not go with either. Yes PBL did outperform Gloss Coat but it is really a flip of the coin on this one. Either one will net you the 1 year you are looking for. One thing that I did like about Gloss Coat is it`s ability on how it handled bird droppings. If it is caught early enough and doesn`t sit on the coating for too long then it can go away after a couple days just by sitting in the sun.

It also sounds like you narrowed down your choice in having the detailer that is easier to get in touch with to do the work.

The other option is just using a sealant or one of the various silica spray sealants as a form of protection.

 

[Accumulator]

I ordered Dr. Colorchip, so we`ll see how that goes.

FWIW, I get *MUCH* better results with that if I use it like regular touchup paint instead of doing their "smear" method. Be careful you don`t mar up the surrounding paint; it`s hard to fix that since the DrColorchip paint will be a lot more fragile than the surrounding oe finish.

 

[jwyfk]

If it is caught early enough and doesn`t sit on the coating for too long then it can go away after a couple days just by sitting in the sun.

What do you mean by this? How does bird poop residue bake off in the sun?

FWIW, I get *MUCH* better results with that if I use it like regular touchup paint instead of doing their "smear" method. Be careful you don`t mar up the surrounding paint; it`s hard to fix that since the DrColorchip paint will be a lot more fragile than the surrounding oe finish.

So, you just dab the chip, let it dry, then use the solution to remove the excess without using any kind of squeegee? I plan to tape off the surrounding area. I`ll be careful, but I wasn`t aware that I could mar the paint surface by using what they include in the kit.

 

[Stokdgs]

What do you mean by this? How does bird poop residue bake off in the sun?



So, you just dab the chip, let it dry, then use the solution to remove the excess without using any kind of squeegee? I plan to tape off the surrounding area. I`ll be careful, but I wasn`t aware that I could mar the paint surface by using what they include in the kit.

Be careful about taping off the surrounding area; if you mean you are taping exactly around the chipped area, and you fill in the chip, it might leave a line around the chip when you pull the tape off..
I have used Dr.Colorchip many times years ago and cannot understand how it apparently, got so hard to use...
All I have ever done with it is - 1st clean out the area carefully that is missing the paint, clean the surround area.. I think the first time I ever used this product 16 years ago, the only thing that Detailers used with Isopropyl Alcohol , which is what I used to clean the chipped area and the surrounding area..
Then I shook the heck out of the little bottle of paint.
Took my camelhair sword brush, dipped it in lacquer thinner to get it wet, shook it out away from the car, dipped it into the paint bottle and applied that drop to the chip..
Waited the amount of time the directions said, took the other bootle of what looks like thinned down paint, and a microfiber cloth and carefully wiped that wet microfiber over the chip, keeping it flat and not digging into the paint chip.
The paint chip was flat and now very shiny, and stayed that way for years.. Sold the car and it was doing fine years later..

In the case of many chips like in road rash on the leading edge of the hood, same thing, get all the chips painted, wait, wipe everything off with the other bottle product.
It cleans up any paint boo-boos, etc., that might be in between the chips, all the chips are flat and shiny, all done !
Anyway, thats my experiences with Dr.Colorchip products..
Dan F

 

[Stokdgs]

What do you mean by this? How does bird poop residue bake off in the sun?



So, you just dab the chip, let it dry, then use the solution to remove the excess without using any kind of squeegee? I plan to tape off the surrounding area. I`ll be careful, but I wasn`t aware that I could mar the paint surface by using what they include in the kit.

Be careful about taping off the surrounding area; if you mean you are taping exactly around the chipped area, and you fill in the chip, it might leave a line around the chip when you pull the tape off..
I have used Dr.Colorchip many times years ago and cannot understand how it apparently, got so hard to use...
All I have ever done with it is - 1st clean out the area carefully that is missing the paint, clean the surrounding area.. I think the first time I ever used this product 16 years ago, the only thing that we used to clean paintwork was Isopropyl Alcohol , which is what I used to clean the chipped area and the surrounding area..
Then I shook the heck out of the little bottle of paint.
Took my camelhair sword brush, dipped it in lacquer thinner to get it wet, shook it out away from the car, dipped it into the paint bottle and applied that drop to the chip..
Waited the amount of time the directions said, took the other bootle of what looks like thinned down paint, and a microfiber cloth and carefully wiped that wet microfiber over the chip, keeping it flat and not digging into the paint chip.
The paint chip was flat and now very shiny, and stayed that way for years.. Sold the car and it was doing fine years later..

In the case of many chips like in road rash on the leading edge of the hood, same thing, get all the chips painted, wait, wipe everything off with the other bottle product.
It cleans up any paint boo-boos, etc., that might be in between the chips, all the chips are flat and shiny, all done !
Anyway, thats my experiences with Dr.Colorchip products..
Dan F

 

[jwyfk]

Be careful about taping off the surrounding area; if you mean you are taping exactly around the chipped area, and you fill in the chip, it might leave a line around the chip when you pull the tape off..
I have used Dr.Colorchip many times years ago and cannot understand how it apparently, got so hard to use...
All I have ever done with it is - 1st clean out the area carefully that is missing the paint, clean the surround area.. I think the first time I ever used this product 16 years ago, the only thing that Detailers used with Isopropyl Alcohol , which is what I used to clean the chipped area and the surrounding area..
Then I shook the heck out of the little bottle of paint.
Took my camelhair sword brush, dipped it in lacquer thinner to get it wet, shook it out away from the car, dipped it into the paint bottle and applied that drop to the chip..
Waited the amount of time the directions said, took the other bootle of what looks like thinned down paint, and a microfiber cloth and carefully wiped that wet microfiber over the chip, keeping it flat and not digging into the paint chip.
The paint chip was flat and now very shiny, and stayed that way for years.. Sold the car and it was doing fine years later..

In the case of many chips like in road rash on the leading edge of the hood, same thing, get all the chips painted, wait, wipe everything off with the other bottle product.
It cleans up any paint boo-boos, etc., that might be in between the chips, all the chips are flat and shiny, all done !
Anyway, thats my experiences with Dr.Colorchip products..
Dan F

Excellent, thank you for the feedback and tips!

 

[Accumulator]

So, you just dab the chip, let it dry, then use the solution to remove the excess without using any kind of squeegee? I plan to tape off the surrounding area...

As per what stokdgs posted, and the above, I think you`re all set. IMO you`ll figure out the nuances by doing, just keep "BE GENTLE!" in mind

I`ll be careful, but I wasn`t aware that I could mar the paint surface by using what they include in the kit.

Heh heh, the sad truth of it is that marring paint is just *incredibly* easy. Even the hardest paint around. Consider autpaint to be about as sensitive as the surface of you eyeball.

 

[jwyfk]

Heh heh, the sad truth of it is that marring paint is just *incredibly* easy. Even the hardest paint around. Consider autpaint to be about as sensitive as the surface of you eyeball.

I pointed the rock chip out to a friend of mine. He laughed at me when I stopped him from touching the area, because I didn`t want him to scratch it, lol.

 

[Swanicyouth]

I went on a whole rant on AGO why waxes & sealants are NOT obsolete IMHO. Mainly, they have a lot of benefits:

1. Cheaper than coatings.
2. Easier than coatings
3. No special equipment, environment, maintenance products, or prep products needed to use.
4. Realistically, yr average car wash Sunday guy / non Auto Geek guy isn`t going to coat his car - at least successfully
5. Renewing them is as easy as layering another coat.


Reminds me of when they said everyone would be in flying cars by the 1950s. It never happened. Sure, some people can fly airplanes around - but the bottom line is there is too much investment, knowledge & risk required for the average person when they can just drive in a car that can be operated by any teenager fairly well.

For me the future is he super durable spray sealants. Not the Reload type coating a bottle - but the stuff like Rupes P808, OCW, Sonax BSD, Prima Hydro Max. Technology is pushing these so manufacturers are claiming 6 mos durability.

While I think 6 mos is nowhere near realistic at this point - even if you get 2-3 mos, application is a 10 minute wipe down on a clean car. There is no chance of really doing it wrong if you have a clue and no hundreds of dollars initial investment. The majority of people want cheap, fast, and easy these days. These products tick all the boxes.

 

[Accumulator]

It`d be nice if OCW performed like FK1000P except for longevity...but much as I do like OCW, it`s nowhere *near* the FK when it comes to protection/etc. I`ll probably end up FKing my wife`s A8 instead of sticking with the oh-so-convenient OCW

 

[The Guz]

I went on a whole rant on AGO why waxes & sealants are NOT obsolete IMHO. Mainly, they have a lot of benefits:

1. Cheaper than coatings.
2. Easier than coatings
3. No special equipment, environment, maintenance products, or prep products needed to use.
4. Realistically, yr average car wash Sunday guy / non Auto Geek guy isn`t going to coat his car - at least successfully
5. Renewing them is as easy as layering another coat.


Reminds me of when they said everyone would be in flying cars by the 1950s. It never happened. Sure, some people can fly airplanes around - but the bottom line is there is too much investment, knowledge & risk required for the average person when they can just drive in a car that can be operated by any teenager fairly well.

For me the future is he super durable spray sealants. Not the Reload type coating a bottle - but the stuff like Rupes P808, OCW, Sonax BSD, Prima Hydro Max. Technology is pushing these so manufacturers are claiming 6 mos durability.

While I think 6 mos is nowhere near realistic at this point - even if you get 2-3 mos, application is a 10 minute wipe down on a clean car. There is no chance of really doing it wrong if you have a clue and no hundreds of dollars initial investment. The majority of people want cheap, fast, and easy these days. These products tick all the boxes.

I get what you are saying. But at the same time there is no need to use any "special equipment, environment, maintenance products, or prep products needed to use." with any coating. Remember the buzz word is recommended. One is perfectly fine washing and drying. The same thing can be said about waxes and sealant. Such as I need a spray wax or I need a drying aid. So it goes both ways.

I typically just wash and dry use no spray toppers. It all comes down to not overly complicate the process. People get to hung up on I need to use this and need to top with that. That is when trouble occurs and then someone starts to become jaded.

Spray sealants are great. The one`s you listed are easy to use and won`t last as long as the claimed "up to X months". I posted this on AGO that the key words are "up to". If the product lasts a month it still meets the claim. I get that they are easy to use and cheaper to use. But for me I don`t have to worry about having to apply over and over. Often times I have other things better to do that worry if I have protection on the paint. But if I can go 2 years then in most cases that is fine by me with very little maintenance work such as decon wash once a year.

The ongoing battle of what is the best product is always going to be there. You will have people like me who are pro coatings and then those who are pro sealant.

I will say that I think Gyeon has it right with a product like Cancoat. A product right smack in the middle of a sealant and coating. Expensive up front but multiple applications with very good durability that has exceeded the claimed durability for me.

 

[Swanicyouth]

It`d be nice if OCW performed like FK1000P except for longevity...but much as I do like OCW, it`s nowhere *near* the FK when it comes to protection/etc. I`ll probably end up FKing my wife`s A8 instead of sticking with the oh-so-convenient OCW

I`ve never used FK - but I`m sure you are correct. IMHO OCW is the least durable of these spray on products. The other products seem to work much better for me. Actually, my truck was polished with GPS & then topped with OCW this week. Just because I`m trying to use up the last of my OCW. Once it`s gone - it`s gone. I`ll use the other spray sealant products.

When I throw away an empty bottle of something -`it`s like a victory to me. I have so many redundant products - I love when I actually get rid of something. And, because I have so many LSPs - it`s kept me from buying FK. My rule now is no more more products searching for the latest and greatest until I`m completely out of what`s similar - which will likely be never. Stuff just takes up too much space and takes too long to go through.

I think the big thing with coatings and why real ones will never hit the shelves at Pep Boys is because the polishing / prep / skill required to install correctly and the cost.

The average consumer just doesn`t care enough about their car to go through that or invest the time. And for the Autopian world, the big reason why people use coatings is for their supposed durability and for good feels for using the latest and greatest high dollar stuff on their car. The problem is - real world durability seems to be a crap shoot with these products for who knows what reason - this can be extremely frustrating to someone paying a premium just to obtain high durability.

Someone will always find something wrong in your process if your coating fails: wrong soap, environment was too hot when installed, environment was too cold when installed, wrong prep product used, too much / too little product used, some mysterious environmental contaminant, - etc...

So the manufacturers respond CYA style. They come out with "toppers" which "rejuvenate" the coating. They all have it now. But, in reality - the topper is just some sort of spray sealant that has good beading that temporarily covers up where the coating you spent a lot of money for went bad. You could have just used the spray topper sealant from the get go, saved a lot of money / time - and have been done with it.

 

[Accumulator]

Swanicyouth- Heh heh, I understand completely how it`s *so* easy to, uhm...accumulate...a lot more stuff than you could ever really need

I`d keep some OCW on-hand just for repaints. That`s why I originally bought it and I`ve just been lazy using it as a standalone on the A8