Arctic White Golf MK3 Gti - Detailed by Lawrence

LawrenceSA

New member
This is one of my favorite local MK3's - a lot of subtle changes that really work well. The car has however received a full re-spray and unfortunately the finish left a lot to be desired - not particularly noticeable from a distance but up close it was a different story. 
 
The usual surface dirt was present
 
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Here we get to see some orange peel
 
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This in itself is not particularly uncommon, however what is, is how varied the orange peel was over the car. As you can see in the pic below, there is a lot of it toward the window side of the bonnet, but then as you move toward the front bumper the body shop has sanded the paint a lot more
 
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Another example - in the reflection of the arch of my garage entrance you can see half with orange peel and half without
 
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As if this was not bad enough, some very deep sanding marks were left behind.
 
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And of course the obligatory swirls and buffer trails
 
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A few of the raised edges took a hammering
 
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The trim was also in need of some love
 
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As did the wheels
 
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Process/products used:
 
Arches: Rinsed with a HP washer, sprayed with Cyclo APC via a foaming trigger head and allowed to dwell and then agitated with a Mothers Fender Well Brush. This was followed with another HP Rinse. The arches would later be dressed with Glossworx Extreme Tyre Shine
 
Tires: Cleaned with Mothers Mothers FX Wheel Cleaner and a Mothers Tire Brush and later dressed with Autofinesse Gloss Tire Dressing
 
Wheels and brake calipers: Rinsed with a HP washer then cleaned using Cyclo APC and a Daytona Jnr and a Valet Pro Boar Hairs brush and dried. The wheels were then thoroughly sprayed with Valet Pro Dragons Breath which was agitated after being allowed to dwell for a few minutes, using the same brushes, and then thoroughly rinsed and dried them. Valet Pro Citrus Tar & Glue Remover was used to remove any tar spots. The wheels were then foamed using Valet Pro Advanced Neutral Snow Foam when the rest of the car was being washed - this would ensure there were no remaining residue on the surface - then they were clayed and sealed with Menzerna Powerlock.
 
Door shuts, boot shut, window rubbers, fuel flap, badges etc: Cleaned using Cyclo APC with Valet Pro brushed and then HP Rinsed. Autofinesse Tripple was then used to further clean these areas and leave behind some protection.
 
Wash: Pre-foamed using Valet Pro Advanced Neutral Snow Foam via foam cannon followed by a 2BM wash with Lambswool wash mitts and Glossworx Shampoo. 
 
Dry: ONR at QD strength with WW Drying towels and compressed air
 
Decontamination: A baggie test was conducted revealing a 'normal'amount of  contamination. A 3-stage decontamination comprising Valet Pro Dragon's Breath, Valet Pro Citrus Tar Remover and Autoglym Fine Grade Clay with ONR as lube.
 
Correction: Menzerna FG400 / Lake Country Orange. The black wing was further refined using Menzerna SF4000 / Lake Country Grey finishing pad
 
Taping up
 
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Despite washing and decontaminating the paint, polishing further improved the look by removing the layer of ingrained dirt
 
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Protection: Collinite 845 [Autofinesse Tripple used on Door Jambs and under Bonnet]
 
Glass : Sample Fine Grade Clay / ONR at clay lube strength / Glossworx Glass Cleaner / Streak Free Microfiber Glass Cleaning Cloths / Insta Finish Bead Off 
 
Door rubbers, plastic trim : Shield Heavy Duty Vinyl and Rubber Cleaner / Optimum Optibond Tire Gel
 
Interior: Blown out with compressed air / Vacuum / Autofinesse Spritz  / BMW Leather Cleaner / Glossworx Leather Conditioner
 
Engine Bay: Blown out with compressed air / Wiped down with MF Towel and Cyclo APC / Dressed using Glossworx Extreme Tire Shine / Autofinesse Tripple on all painted areas
 
Exhaust tips: Cyclo CM30 APC / Various brushes / Meguiars NXT Metal Polish
 
Exterior Trim: Dressed using Optimum Optibond
 
Onto some after pics
 
In the garage still
 
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And out in the sun, which was setting rather quickly
 
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Total time spent  = 30 hours
 
As always thanks for looking and any questions or comments are welcome.
 
 :hi: 
 
Wow, I've always tried to keep my cars clean but just started to get serious. This however is just amazing to me, it looks great man; made a username just to tell you that :lol:
 
DynoBunny said:
Wow, I've always tried to keep my cars clean but just started to get serious. This however is just amazing to me, it looks great man; made a username just to tell you that :lol:


Wow, thank you very much. It is rather humbling that you registered just to comment on this detail - one of the best 'compliments' I have ever received. I am sure you will find loads of valuable information on this forum.
 
I think it really exemplified the condition of well kept but not well detailed tuner's car. So to see it perfected like that is awesome.

May I ask, what's the point of taping up the arches on the hood?
 
DynoBunny said:
I think it really exemplified the condition of well kept but not well detailed tuner's car. So to see it perfected like that is awesome.


May I ask, what's the point of taping up the arches on the hood?


Thanks


 


The point of taping is twofold.


 


1. To avoid the polisher running over any of the trim/rubber and ruining the finish or to avoid getting any potential splatter on said items


2. Raised edges (like the ones running down the hood) will be naturally thinner (when they were sprayed gravity would have taken a hold of the liquid paint and it would have run down from the raised edge, leaving less paint on this raised edge). Also, if one were to run a polisher over a raised edge like this, you concentrate all the working force over the pad into one thin little area as opposed to spreading it out over the whole face of the pad. Therefore, the taping is done to ensure that the thin edges are not hammered hard during paint correction.


 


Prevention is better than cure, as they say!
 
So then do you go back over the raised edges by hand? I ordered some 3m tape for around the trim, but I also have edges that I wouldn't want to ruin when polishing.
 
DynoBunny said:
So then do you go back over the raised edges by hand? I ordered some 3m tape for around the trim, but I also have edges that I wouldn't want to ruin when polishing.


No I didn't. 


 


To my mind the right thing to do is leave as much paint as possible on those edges rather than to seek complete defect removal. You will hardly notice any swirls on such a small area anyway..


 


Perhaps if you intend compounding and polishing you may be ok to tape up during compounding and then gently polish the raised edges to better blend the area? But this obviously carries its own risks
 
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