Applying 845 with PC?

I

imported_RedlineIRL

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I have been applying 845 by hand as long as I have used it, and want to try it with the PC if I could. The thing is, 845 seems so watery and liquidy I am not sure if applying it by machine will give the best application vs by hand.



Anyone here apply 845 with the PC? Have you found there to be any kind of difference in durability vs applying by hand? Also which kind of pads work best?
 
With almost any LSP it is typically true that a thick application is just a waste of product, and will not result in a better or more durable finish. I apply all of my LSPs with a black 5.5" pad on a PCXP. Thinner LSPs just spread all the easier.



Thinner coat means less product used, and typically an easier wipe-off
 
I agree with jono. I have found that I like to apply LSP's with my polisher because it's faster, and I feel like I'm getting better coverage and a nice thin application every time. I have applied 845 with my Flex 3401, and I have not seen a difference in durability, but like I said I find it's easier to use the polisher. Of course I still have to go back by hand with a foam applicator to get the tight spots where the Flex won't reach.



Now you are right about how runny 845 is. So what I did was hold the bottle onto the pad, and then tip both the bottle and the pad over so i just got a little dime sized circle of product on the pad. I put like 3 of these dime-sized circles onto the pad and then applied it to the car, repleninshing as needed. I couldn't find a better way to apply it to the pad without pouring it all over. And a little goes a long way, so I feel I used less product than by hand.



To apply it you'll need to use a finishing pad. For the Flex, this means a blue or red CCS pad.
 
wfedwar said:
are you guys able to clean 845 back out of your pads?
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I have pretty much dedicated a pad to the 845 because it's very hard to clean it out. But I have soaked the pad in Dawn + water, and it got most of it out.
 
Noting that I've never tried the LC gold pads....



I can't ever get quite as thin an application via PC/Cyclo as I can by hand, but I can get 845 plenty thin enough and I prefer the motions/etc. of doing it by machine. I often buff most of it off by machine too, using MF bonnets (I usually do a final follow-up by hand).



I usually use the red Griot's wax pad with the PC, and no, I never seem to quite get all the 845 washed out, not that it appears to matter. It's not like the pad ends up too stiff or mars the paint or anything like that.
 
Thanks everyone, I'll try it nextime with my red CCS pads I have.



wfedwar said:
are you guys able to clean 845 back out of your pads?
Click to expand...

I have been able to get most out, but there's usually some leftover. I usually just dedicate them to be used elsewhere afterwards





I just put some 845 on a few weeks back, and I want to go back over it with some more 845 x2. Usually I wait a couple months in betweeen, but I want see what 845 can do applied again at a closer interval. I have usually went with a cleaner polish before with 845, such as Poorboys blue polish just to brighten things up and give everything a smoother surce. Should I be fine with going straight to 845 when I apply it again, or should I use some sort of cleaner polish first?
 
Great tip Spike73
Spike73 said:
I agree with jono. I have found that I like to apply LSP's with my polisher because it's faster, and I feel like I'm getting better coverage and a nice thin application every time. I have applied 845 with my Flex 3401, and I have not seen a difference in durability, but like I said I find it's easier to use the polisher. Of course I still have to go back by hand with a foam applicator to get the tight spots where the Flex won't reach.



Now you are right about how runny 845 is. So what I did was hold the bottle onto the pad, and then tip both the bottle and the pad over so i just got a little dime sized circle of product on the pad. I put like 3 of these dime-sized circles onto the pad and then applied it to the car, repleninshing as needed. I couldn't find a better way to apply it to the pad without pouring it all over. And a little goes a long way, so I feel I used less product than by hand.



To apply it you'll need to use a finishing pad. For the Flex, this means a blue or red CCS pad.
Click to expand...
 
Spike73 said:
..what I did was hold the bottle onto the pad, and then tip both the bottle and the pad over so i just got a little dime sized circle of product on the pad. I put like 3 of these dime-sized circles onto the pad and then applied it to the car, repleninshing as needed..
Click to expand...



That sounds like a *LOT* more product than I put on the pad :think:



(Not intended as a slam, just an observation, and I probably replenish more often).



I find a good test is to see how much LSP is left in the pad at the end of the job. If I can squeeze much out when cleaning the pad I figure I used way too much.
 
Accumulator said:
I find a good test is to see how much LSP is left in the pad at the end of the job. If I can squeeze much out when cleaning the pad I figure I used way too much.
Click to expand...



You guys probably use different pads? My red Griots' soaks up product like no other, and I'm getting tired of it (luckily I have some new Ubers on the way!). I haven't quite gotten the hang of applying LSPs via my RO. I'm getting better, but I can't quite seem to get the product as evenly distributed as I'd like.
 
ThrillHo said:
You guys probably use different pads? My red Griots' soaks up product like no other, and I'm getting tired of it (luckily I have some new Ubers on the way!). I haven't quite gotten the hang of applying LSPs via my RO. I'm getting better, but I can't quite seem to get the product as evenly distributed as I'd like.
Click to expand...



I didn't notice the Griot's red pad soaking up all that much product, but if that's a concern you might oughta try the LC Gold pad; I hear it's very good in that regard.



FWIW, there are some LSPs (sealants mainly, but also waxes like Souveran) that I always do by hand...not like you *need* to do it by machine.
 
Accumulator said:
I didn't notice the Griot's red pad soaking up all that much product, but if that's a concern you might oughta try the LC Gold pad; I hear it's very good in that regard.



FWIW, there are some LSPs (sealants mainly, but also waxes like Souveran) that I always do by hand...not like you *need* to do it by machine.
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Thanks for the tips. The Griots' red is actually the only finishing pad I have experience with. I think im getting better with it though. It's most likely operator error.



That's interesting that there are some LSPs that you always do by hand. Which souveran wax do you do by hand? The liquid or paste? I've been eyeing that one for some time, and now thanks to this thread I'm going to have to get serious about Colly 845 :clap:
 
I apply Collinite 845 using a red or blue Lake Country pad. I start out with 3 dime sized drops then I'm off. I start off on speed 3 to spread it around then bump it up to 5 in order to ensure a thin even coat over the area.
 
ThrillHo said:
That's interesting that there are some LSPs that you always do by hand. Which souveran wax do you do by hand? The liquid or paste? I've been eyeing that one for some time, and now thanks to this thread I'm going to have to get serious about Colly 845 :clap:
Click to expand...



I only use the paste version of Souveran. FWIW, I consider it a beauty wax, for garage-queens only. Unless you have a good reason to use it, I'd say save your money, but eh...I'm no fun ;)
 
I have to disagree with most here. I apply Insultaor Wax by hand with a yellow Megs foam pad and can do a car much faster than I can with a PC. I don't see how people can think a machine is faster or easier for applying waxes. After all you are just tying to lay down a thin coat of product not work it in or polish. When you factor in getting the machine out and set up and than trying to get into tight spots etc it's more bother than it's worth.



Polishing is another story but for waxing, especially using a stupid simple product like Insulator Wax, I will do it by hand any day over doing it with a machine.
 
Anthony A said:
I have to disagree with most here. I apply Insultaor Wax by hand with a yellow Megs foam pad and can do a car much faster than I can with a PC. I don't see how people can think a machine is faster or easier for applying waxes. After all you are just tying to lay down a thin coat of product not work it in or polish. When you factor in getting the machine out and set up and than trying to get into tight spots etc it's more bother than it's worth.



Polishing is another story but for waxing, especially using a stupid simple product like Insulator Wax, I will do it by hand any day over doing it with a machine.
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NO disagrement after all, at least with regard to the "faster?" part; sure, by the time I get out/set up/put away the polisher(s) it takes a lot longer than doing the whole thing by hand.



But I prefer the motions involved in machine application/removal over those used when doing it by hand. Discovered this almost by accident back when a serious bilateral shoulder injury required me to do it by machine; doing it by hand was simply impossible but doing it by machine was easy and, more imortantly, painless. After my shoulders healed up I went back to doing LSPs both ways, depending on what I feel like doing and also on what seems to work best with the LSP in question, but to this day my shoulders are happier if I do it by machine; the movements (and hence the stresses) are simply different. Heh heh, if I'm gonna reinjure a shoulder, it's gonna happen in the weightroom, not in the garage ;)



The only LSP that I actually think works *better* by machine is Meguiar's #16 (and *maybe* the old version of 3M Showcar Paste Wax); otherwise it's more likely for things to go well for me by hand. But that doesn't keep me from doing 845 and (usually) 476S by machine as I simply prefer to do it that way.
 
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