Anybody ever use one of these? (Wheel bolt guide tool)

[C. Charles Hahn]

Lug Bolt Guide Tools, Wheel Hanger, Stud Alignment Tool, Wheel Bolt Alignment Tool



Since I seem to be getting more and more Euro cars lately that all have hub-centric wheels with bolts instead of studs, I've been discovering what a royal pain it can sometimes be to get the wheels installed after removal for cleaning (maybe if I had a third hand...)



I went searching for possible solutions and found these guide tools that are designed to act like a wheel stud, helping with alignment and holding the wheel in place while you install the first few bolts. Just curious if anyone has used these or something similar, and if they work as well as advertised. The only concern I'd really have is whether it would scratch the wheels up or not, but I can't imagine that being an issue. :think:

 

[tom p.]

This "tool" is often included with Euro cars. I've seen it many times, but have never used it.

 

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

Cool tool... Perhaps plasti dipping the end of the tool would mitagate any potential damage

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

This "tool" is often included with Euro cars. I've seen it many times, but have never used it.

Interesting; maybe I haven't looked close enough, but I've never seen one in a jack kit before.

Cool tool... Perhaps plasti dipping the end of the tool would mitagate any potential damage

Good point....

 

[Accumulator]

This "tool" is often included with Euro cars..

Yeah, my A8/S8 came with those, nice plastic ones that are plenty sturdy but don't abrade the wheel.

The only concern I'd really have is whether it would scratch the wheels up or not, but I can't imagine that being an issue...

It *CAN* be an issue, especially if the knurling on it is really coarse.



My pals at EuroCar Service/ECSTuning whittled up a pair of 'em for me (one for my Audis, one for the M3) back before they started selling them and while I certainly appreciated such a nice gift, I was worried about that knurling chewing up my wheels when I slid them on across it. I covered it with masking tape, problem pretty much, but not 100%, solved.



The ones they gave me were made out of steel, and/but I still prefer the plastic ones that came with my Audis. If shopping, I'd probably go with aluminum (as opposed to steel).

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

The ones they gave me were made out of steel, and/but I still prefer the plastic ones that came with my Audis. If shopping, I'd probably go with aluminum (as opposed to steel).

That's good to hear.... because the aluminum ones are cheaper anyway

 

[Accumulator]

Plus, with the aluminum ones it'd be easy enough to smooth out the knurling a little bit.

 

[wascallyrabbit]

they work well. my audi has floating rotors and with out them put the wheels back on sucks. they hold the rotor and make lining up the holes easy. i have the aluminum one.

 

[Lowejackson]

I have not tried using this type of tool as I can normally fit the wheels on without any problem. The only time I did struggle, I found a wooden spoon handle to be a perfect fit.

 

[JohnZ3MC]

My garage queen is european and I made my own version of that tool. They're worth their weight in gold when you need one. It removes the huge frustration encountered during wheel remounting.



Marring just isn't an issue. Use it once and you'll see why. If you really must, you could slip a bit of clear plastic tubing over it but I didn't bother.

The example you posted looks much better than the one I made, I must say.

-John C.

 

[Brad B]

I have used these for years. They are great. As you may have guessed, they are made of different threads/diameters for specific cars. I have a few of different ones as BMW, MINI, Audi and Porsche have different treads. I have these in plastic, aluminum and steel.



One of them does have a knurled edge as pictured above, but I have never experienced any wheel damage from it. Covering it with tape or plastic dip is not recommended as it will simply impede the wheel from sliding on smoothly.



In fact, you can make one of these on your own quite easily. Simply take a lug bolt with you to the hardware store and match the threads to a large metric bolt. Make sure the shank is smooth with the minimum thread area. Cut the bolt head off and cut length to suit if necessary. I made one for my BMW M3 and it worked great and was priced right.



The one you have found in your link sure is pretty. But they don't stay that way for long.

 

[Accumulator]

..One of [mine] does have a knurled edge as pictured above, but I have never experienced any wheel damage from it. Covering it with tape or plastic dip is not recommended as it will simply impede the wheel from sliding on smoothly. ..

You're perhaps a bit more careful than I am when mounting your wheels (?!?"perhaps"?!?, sorry, no insult intended) but I can't see how you could let the knurling come in contact with the wheel and *not* have some abrasion; it'd be like a file...at least to my way of thinking, maybe I just erred on the side of caution again :nixweiss



And/but yeah, one wrap of tape was all I could do without increasing the diameter enough to cause trouble, and the knurling cuts through that quickly enough that I have to retape pretty often (hence a lot of my preference for the plastic ones).



Eh, looking closer at your pic, your knurling isn't nearly as aggressive as it is on mine, which might as well be considered prototypes of the ones ECSTuning sells these days. I do find it unnecessary though, easy enough to screw 'em in/out without it.

Make sure the shank is smooth with the minimum thread area..

"Minimum" being roughly equal to the diameter of the bolt, right?

 

[Brad B]

You're perhaps a bit more careful than I am when mounting your wheels (?!?"perhaps"?!?, sorry, no insult intended) but I can't see how you could let the knurling come in contact with the wheel and *not* have some abrasion; it'd be like a file...

I think that's the case, the knurling is very slight. And luckily out on the very end where you are still somewhat supporting the wheel as you slide it on, hence the full weight of the wheel isn't smashed into it. If the whole length of the thing was knurled it would be bad. I agree, the knurled part isn't needed.

"Minimum" being roughly equal to the diameter of the bolt, right?

Yes, that would be enough-good point. I just want to be sure that you are using a smooth shank bolt and are NOT trying to slide a wheel on the threads of a bolt. (Even the thought of that makes me cringe!)

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

Brad, do you happen to recall where you got the plastic ones you have? I like the idea of them to pretty much completely eliminate the worry of marring/scratching wheels but I can't seem to find them with my Google searches.



From what I can see it looks like there are basically three standard sizes/thread types, so it would be nice to have at least one of each in the toolbox for when the occasion calls.

 

[Brad B]

The plastic ones I have are for the Audi, they come in the OEM tool kits. I haven't seen plastic online either. Sorry.



I am confident that you will not do harm to the wheels with metal ones. Remember, the only thing that touches the pin is the inside of the bolt hole opening. They don't touch any painted or clearcoated parts of the wheel. I change wheels a LOT and have never had any issues.

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

Gotcha. I guess I'll just pick up a set of three of those aluminum ones and see how they do.

 

[Accumulator]

The plastic ones I have are for the Audi, they come in the OEM tool kits..

I don't have the part# handy, but those are available from Audi dealers and they're pretty cheap. I was kinda surprised that they don't come with *all* Audis, had to order one up for my pal's A4.