Any real differences between FK2180 and FK1000P?

I

imported_RedlineIRL

New member
I have become interested in trying out FK1000P and have been reading threads posted about it, but in doing so I have found out about FK2180. From what I have seen FK2180 seems to offer the same high melting poing, ability to repel dirt, and overall resistance to the elements as 1000P. So really what is the difference between the two, besides the fact one is a liquid and the other is a paste? It seems like the obvious choice to go with is FK2180 due to being a liquid for easy application and removal. Is the 1000P signifigantly more durable and worthwhile for total protection? I can't decide between the two.



Also, as a pre cleaner before using FK100P or FK2180, is FK215 a good choice to go with? Or what about Four Star Ultimate Pre-Wax Cleanser, any problem with it llowing sealants to bond? Basically all I want is something to clean the surface thoroughly prior to application, something that I can do by hand and is non abrasive since no machine correction is needed. Does the 215 contain abrasives that can microscrtch the suface if applied by hand?
 
FK215 would be ok to use. A better choice would be HD UNO as shown above on sale. I have high regards to HD POXY a sealant that leaves a awesome finish. I think the 1000P would be the best choice out of the two you mentioned. There are just to many satisfied user's of 1000P.
 
RedlineIRL said:
I have become interested in trying out FK1000P and have been reading threads posted about it, but in doing so I have found out about FK2180. From what I have seen FK2180 seems to offer the same high melting poing, ability to repel dirt, and overall resistance to the elements as 1000P. So really what is the difference between the two, besides the fact one is a liquid and the other is a paste? It seems like the obvious choice to go with is FK2180 due to being a liquid for easy application and removal. Is the 1000P signifigantly more durable and worthwhile for total protection? I can't decide between the two...
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I too would like to hear more about the FK2180 :think:



My gut-feeling is that it can't really compare to the FK1000P with regard to durability, but that's just a guess.



Also, as a pre cleaner before using FK100P or FK2180, is FK215 a good choice to go with? Or what about Four Star Ultimate Pre-Wax Cleanser, any problem with it llowing sealants to bond? Basically all I want is something to clean the surface thoroughly prior to application, something that I can do by hand and is non abrasive since no machine correction is needed. ..
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The 4Star would probably be OK since it's made for use with their sealant (a product I've found to be a *little* finicky about what goes on before it). I myself usually use KAIO for something like this.
 
Accumulator said:
I too would like to hear more about the FK2180 :think:



My gut-feeling is that it can't really compare to the FK1000P with regard to durability, but that's just a guess.
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I think a lot of people would love to have a liquid version of Fk1000p. I've even tinkered with the idea of making a liquid version. Fk2180 is far removed from being a liquid version of FK1000P. I have a big bottle of the stuff and I'm not sure what I'll ever end up using the stuff on. Its not as slick, isn't as deep and durability is not even close (at least from a beading perspective).



The closest thing to me is Rejex, but its not that close. Its as slick (maybe more), has good durability if you let it cure indoors, and has good dirt releasing properties. Looks-wise its pretty different.
 
Dan- Ah, OK, roger that on the big diffs! Thanks for the info.



Dan said:
I think a lot of people would love to have a liquid version of Fk1000p. I've even tinkered with the idea of making a liquid version...
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Heh heh, whipping up a batch of "liquid FK1000P" might be a tall order!! :eek:
 
Man I had not even heard of this liquid from FK till reading this thread. I might try it out with a small sample of they'll send me a small sample. I do like the 1000p but try to wipe it off the trim quick or it might stain it.
 
Actually, FK does make a liquid version of 1000P, it is 1000L.

As I have posted before,1000P was developed for the mold release industry.

The user in this industry must apply 4 to 5 coats before casting the first part, and renew it with a coat after the first part is removed from the mold, after that, only one coat is usually required after every 3 to 5 parts.

The 1000L is a liquid version of the 1000P for use in the renewing of the 1000P after the 3 to 5 parts cast.

1000L has a high solvent content, therefore less of the active solid content of the blend of components will be left on the tooling mold.

The 1000L is not intended for use on automotive paint systems as it tends to leave "streaking" on the surface due to the solvents flashing off and leaving a small amount of the solid components showing.

#2180 is a "stronger" version of #218 PolyWipe.

We added a small percentage of flurotelamer resin to the formula and a light blue dye to show it is different from the #218.

Good product, however one should allow at least 20 to 30 minutes of cure time before wiping and keep the surface from being flushed with water for 24 hours so crosslinking may occur. Flush with water or even exporsure to morning dew will stop this important crosslinking and so will not have the intended durability.

Grumpy
 
Good stuff, now where can I find some FK1000L to play with???



Also Ron, you might have mentioned that there were some similarities between FK1000P and Valuguard Sealant IIRC?
 
When I used 2180, I always topped it with 1000. Sometimes I even applied 2 layers of 2180 first. The initial layer would melt into the paint. Good stuff.



But I agree, POXY/NITRO SEAL are superior looking LSPs. Durability of POXY is very good.
 
The only thing I would know that you could get some is to locate a supplier of supplies for the mold release/frp industry or call FK and ask to by a sample of it.

At my time there, we offered the 1000L in I thing 4oz or 8oz samples. It had to be packaged in a metal container, as the solvent system would eat through most plastic ones.

Grumpy
 
tdekany said:
When I used 2180, I always topped it with 1000. Sometimes I even applied 2 layers of 2180 first. The initial layer would melt into the paint. Good stuff.



But I agree, POXY/NITRO SEAL are superior looking LSPs. Durability of POXY is very good.
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Made you feel good, but in reality, did nothing.

The 1000P provided that which you were seeking.

To best of my old, limited recall, the solvents we used in the 2180 basically removed the most of the 1000P, not all, but it would have desolved most of the actives.

Grumpy
 
Sounds like it's just best to stick with FK1000P then. This is going to be a different change of pace for me, I don't think I have touched anything other than liquid waxes and sealants in at least 15 years
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Made you feel good, but in reality, did nothing.

The 1000P provided that which you were seeking.

To best of my old, limited recall, the solvents we used in the 2180 basically removed the most of the 1000P, not all, but it would have desolved most of the actives.

Grumpy
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Hey Ron, Thomas used the 2180 as the base then topped it with 1000P.



BTW can you explain the behavior 2180 has? Why does it tend to "melt into" the paint with the first layers? Is there any technical aspect of this? Especially with older, more permeable paints I noticed that they needed more layers (sometimes 4) to reach the "saturation point" where the 2180 started to behave like any normal liquid sealant. I still like it, unique product.
 
But that doesn't seem to happen with other products. I've even had the issue with brand new factory paint. The stuff just disappears into the finish. The only other product that seems to do the same is PoliSeal.
 
I have both and have topped 2180 with 1000P. However, I can't help but think durability was compromised by not allowing 2180 curing time. The 1000p just went on and came off WAY too easily after 2180 was removed ~30 minutes before. I have a feeling both had durability reduced significantly. Hopefully not to the point I would have been better off with just one or the other....but I dunno.
 
Go back to my post regarding the two products and "cure time".

Dry/cure time is also about the solvent system,which as the carrier will make a couple of things take place, like cleaning of the surface, spreading of the active ingrediants, allowing those to rise to the top of the surface and start "crosslinking", etc, etc.



Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Go back to my post regarding the two products and "cure time".

Dry/cure time is also about the solvent system,which as the carrier will make a couple of things take place, like cleaning of the surface, spreading of the active ingrediants, allowing those to rise to the top of the surface and start "crosslinking", etc, etc.



Grumpy
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Can crosslinking still occur if exposure to oxygen is reduced by topping before the product has adequate time to complete the process?
 
This thread makes me wanna use some Finish kare products today :) think I'll use 215/new car glaze or 303 today and then a coat of either 2180 or 1000P on sunday or monday.



I think many top sealants to fast before it have a proper time to react. JJ said not to top 2180 straight after removal but you have to wait 24 hours, just

like Ron Ketcham says,
 
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