any fillers in meqs # 83 ???

B

bigsled

New member
anybody know if there are fillers in # 83 ? or is what you see is what you get, i cant ask meqs, they'll say no.. also is meqs 83 for a pc or just a rotary?
 
I think we've established in a number of threads that all Meg's products contain the "trade secret polishing oils", which many here regard as fillers, although some (primarily Meg's reps) argue that they are not.
 
Specifically #83, filler or not is going to have some leftover hazing. I was just up at a detail supply shop and the guy was talking about it. He said the paint afterwards looked amazing, like he was going to fall into it.



Then he said he left it out nothing on it , it rained and was real sunny the next day. He went out and said and I quote "looks like someone washed it with a sponge and some comet."



LOL. With that being said. Yeah it does have fillers. Its trying to hide the aggressiveness of the product.



It seems a lot of people like to follow up with #80 or something lighter to remove that hazing.



I know some can get away with no hazing. But you gotta know how to work. Also im sure it depends on paint hardness.
 
#83 can be used with a rotary, as well as the PC. In regards to fillers, I guess it may, the best way to check is to use a 50/50 alcohol water mix to remove any filler on the surface. #83 isn't a stand alone polish, you will need to follow it with #80 to remove any marring left by it.
 
Me? I use Klasse AIO to 'clean up', certainly removing any possible fillers. Leaves a fine shine, and more protection than most realize. Oh, I usually follow with a sealant...



I'm sure Meg's never intended DACP to be a 'Last Step Product'.



Jim
 
On the micromarring issue, IIRC, Mike Phillips has said that he often *can* get a ready-to-wax finish with #83 by *rotary* but not nearly as often by PC. A matter of how it breaks down.
 
Accumulator, Mike may know a secret we don't. :D



I agree with travisdecpn but be sure to use #83 with a polishing pad (W-8006 if you're going with Meg's pads). Using #83 with a cutting pad (W-7006) will leave marring that you're better off not having to deal with.
 
Well after my own testing. I used DACP last night with a polishing pad. Used more pressure at first and let it come down.



The finished looked pretty good. I didnt do the 50/50 wipe down. But from what I could see it was fine.



Im thinking I worked it long enough.



The only problem is there seems to still be this gritty feel to the surface now , like the dacp is still on the hood. I used a few other lighter products like 3 times to try and remove that feeling and its still there. And its real squeeky. I kinda hate it....



Maybe I should have used the alcohol before proceeding.



Any how, Im thinking the guy who made the comment about "comet cleaner looking marks" afterwards didnt work it long enough and probably used a more abbrassive pad.



In fact the dacp didnt even remove some pretty light swirls. Almost makes me think what all the fuss about dacp being too strong is about.



Also what about #80 and a cutting pad, has anyone tried that?
 
Which "lighter" (less aggressive?) products are you referring to?



Can't comment on the #80 and the cutting pad as I shy away from this combo.
 
pugoman said:
I've tried this, and I got left with alot more marring than I would've done with DACP on a cutting pad.
Click to expand...



Interesting. Anyone else have this trouble. I figured there might be something like this.



#9 then #7 for the lighters. And in the areas I didnt use dacp it doesnt squeek....its almost annoying the dacp'd areas. It makes everything sound like your a fat chubby kid stuck on a raft all wet fighting to get back on it.
 
Artificial-I said:
Interesting. Anyone else have this trouble. I figured there might be something like this.



#9 then #7 for the lighters. And in the areas I didnt use dacp it doesnt squeek....its almost annoying the dacp'd areas. It makes everything sound like your a fat chubby kid stuck on a raft all wet fighting to get back on it.
Click to expand...



Havn't you ever heard the phrase "squeaky clean"? That's how DACP leaves the finish. There isn't anything in the DACP for protection but it thooughly cleans the surface and will need to be followed up by a finishing polish/glaze(#80 and/or VM are both excellent).:D
 
Artificial-I said:
... Anyone else have this trouble [w/#80/cutting]. I figured there might be something like this...
Click to expand...



Haven't tried it but not surprised to hear about it. #80 just isn't a product for cutting pad applications IMO. It starts out somewhat aggressive but then quickly breaks down, but the cutting pad isn't really suited to use with mild products (like broken down #80). And the open nature of many cutting pads might have weird (and undesirable) effects on the #80's breaking down.



I've been far more successful using aggressive products with mild pads than the other way around.
 
I used #80 and a cutting pad on red bimmer paint and it was fine. It still had some minor swirling that I got out with #80 and a polishing pad.



The answer that I've found for all questions is "it depends."

How hard is the clear? How deep are the swirls?



You can only get suggestions but in the end you're going to have to try it yourself. Just go with the least aggresive for the job and then step it up if what you're using isn't doing the job...
 
Originally posted by Accumulator I've been far more successful using aggressive products with mild pads than the other way around. [/B]
Click to expand...



Same here. I will step up in product aggressiveness before going to a more aggressive pad.
 
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