Another pad w/ rotary question....

N

nosed_b18b

New member
Ok guys. I'm getting the hang of my rotary now. I can maneuver it pretty well, and I understand the basics. The only problem I have now is with my process and/or products I guess. For some reason, I keep making holograms in my paint. (This is a black Toyota TAcoma, by the way.) No matter what speed I set it at, or how fast/slower I move it, there always seems to be holograms left behind. I am currently using a Makita w/ factory backing plate and the 8.5" lcm pads. And I use mainly DACP and #82. Could the pad size be a factor?? Would a smaller pad help my noobness/hologram syndrome?? I seem to be getting the marring out, but holograms appear no matter what I do. :nixweiss
 
as you finish a panel, are you reducing pressure on the machine? Which LCM pad are you using?





Black is gonna be tough. Can you switch to a PC after finishing with the rotary?
 
tom p. said:
as you finish a panel, are you reducing pressure on the machine? Which LCM pad are you using?





Black is gonna be tough. Can you switch to a PC after finishing with the rotary?
Click to expand...

Yes, I am reducing pressure. This problem is with both yellow and white pads. Both are 8.5" size.



I was really considering purchasing a PC, just for this problem. Use a rotary for major swirls/marring, then switching to a pc to finish up polishing. But I thought that would be a waste. I was really hoping that the rotary would be my all-in-one machine. I really wanted to be able to do light swirls with it too. I can pretty much remove scratches/swirls/marring pretty well, but just these damn holograms.:(



Anyways, do you guys feel that a different pad size would help me out?? I read somewhere here that some people were using 7.5" pads because they were the easiest to manuveur/use with the rotary. I wonder how much truth this really holds??



Well, if this doesn't help, then I guess that I just suck at using this thing. And I will have to purchase a PC. I wonder if people have problems with holograms using a pc???:nixweiss
 
Ok. I solved the problem. Here's my solution:

































































































I suck at using a rotary.:angry



But seriously though, anybody have any ideas?? I heard that maybe using a smaller pad size might help?? Most of the swirls seem to be covered w/ wax. Maybe I should do that evrytime???haha:D
 
Well, black is tough. I use an 8" lambswool pad and DACP/Cerrious or equivalent to remove imperfections. I fully expect to leave swirls, even with a final slow pass... Then it is time for the PC and foam polishing pad with a fine polish (I can't work without AutoMagic's GS-1). Speed 5, move slow, with light pressure.



About 60% of the cars I do are black.



Good Luck



Jim
 
Nosed_b18b,



I'm sure that someone with more experience with the rotary will chime in, but here is my take.



I've been using the rotary, but do not have the years of experience under my belt.



Since your vehicle is black, the holograms (or buffer swirls) will be more evident than in light colored cars, especially if you stop at DACP. Take heart, you can remove them.



When i did my car, black too, with DACP/Meg's polishing pad/rotary, the holograms where on the entire car when i brought it out under the sun. What i did next was to use DACP/LC polishing pad/PC. Brought it back out under the sun and voila...perfect finish.



So, with my above recipe, i guess you'll have to shell out for a PC.



I'm sure with more practice with the rotary, holograms will become less of an issue as you become more proficient with the tool. Always remember to step down the aggressive scale of the pad and product combo.



As to your pad size question. The smaller pads will offer better control. That i can attest to. I have the 6.5" and 8.0" pads and i like using the smaller pads. In the long run, i guess whether you use the 6.5" or 8.0" pads will be a matter of personal preference.



I hope this helps.



Let us know how it turns out. Post some pictures when you're done.



Jun
 
Hah. Well so far it's looking like the PC will be my only solution. I was really hoping that I would've been able to use my rotary for all purposes. :(



Well, here goes another $200.:p



One more thing. Has anyone ever induced any holograms w/ a pc?? Is it even possible??
 
I had the same problem with a black Audi A4, no matter what I did with a rotary I would leave holograms. My solution was to use a PC and it took care of the problems.



I used the rotary with a single stage paint and had no problems so I think this problem is only with clear coated paints.



Because this seems to be true I don't see much of a point in using a rotary at all, it can do a little more then a PC but the difference doesn't seem to be all that great. Personally I see my rotary collecting dust in the future.
 
I don't even worry about trying to get holograms out with the rotary on dark colors. I've wasted time in the past working and checking and making sure they were all gone. I think would wax it, pull it out in the sun, and there they were... still in the paint.



I just from the Rotary right to a RO buffer to do the final polishing. It's pretty much fool proof with the RO to get those fine hologram marks out of the paint.
 
What are some polishes / pad combos you guys like to use with the PC in order to remove the hologram effect from the rotary?
 
Spilchy said:
What are some polishes / pad combos you guys like to use with the PC in order to remove the hologram effect from the rotary?
Click to expand...



I have used DACP or SSR2 with the rotary and a green edge pad, then switched to the PC with speed glaze or SSR1. Either of those will give you great results IMO.



When I first started using a rotary on black I used DACP with the rotary, then DACP with the PC, then continued with the detail.
 
A rotary is great for significant swirls, scratches or defects, but taking out the hazing/holograms caused by the rotary is a job for a PC or other DA polisher. I have a medium blue miata that I'm still battling etching on, and whenever I attack with the rotary, I know I'm going to have to fine polish and/or glaze with the PC.



You can get the PC from a number of sources for under $150. I got mine from www.coastaltool.com.



A cheaper alternative, if you want to try it, is an Orbital Polisher such as those sold at Sears and elsewhere. Not as powerfull as the PC, but as long as you don't need to get aggressive, it may work for you.



Splichy, I'd start with DACP (Megs #83) and a polishing pad, followed by a finishing pad with Megs #9 or #7. Wax or poly over the top.



Jim
 
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