Another Filler-LESS Polish Thread...

[Dave N]

The other thread about filler-less polishes got me to wondering... Last year I used some ValuGard Macine Polish/Swirl Remover as a prelude to Zaino, and although it removed swirls, it didn't leave a deep wet look like other SMR products (w/fillers) I have used. The ValuGard SMR is supposed to be a final polish before wax, so it's not like another polish should need to be used after it.



Here's my question: Can you get a deep, wet, mirror-like finish from a polish that doesn't contain fillers/oils?



If so, what products have you used to achieve this?

 

[imported_jgv]

Menzerna's Final Polish; 3M Perfect-it III Machine Polish (09376). Great finishes, you can clean after with Alcohol/watter and it doesn't changes the look.

 

[Nick T.]

Here's my question: Can you get a deep, wet, mirror-like finish from a polish that doesn't contain fillers/oils?

If so, what products have you used to achieve this?

IMO depth and reflectivity come from different sources. Reflectivity is increased as the minor imperfections in the paint are filled and the reflecting surface becomes smoother - 3-5 coats of Zaino or a couple of very thin coats of carnauba for example. Depth is increased by adding thickness to the clear (or translucent) layer on top of the color - thicker layers of carnauba or carnauba with a lot of oils or multiple layers of non-abrasive glaze.



Which products? Good question Dave, but I don’t think that there’s a good answer - except the basics: start with paint that is absolutely leveled and mar-free, polish to perfection, 3-4 coats of Z-5 to help fill and protect, 1-2 coats of Z-2 to protect, then multiple thin coats of a non-abrasive glaze for show, or good carnauba for street, then top with a somewhat oily QD.



Hobby detailing isn’t about reaching the goal of perfection, it’s the about the journey. There is a little to be learned about product and a huge amount to be learned about method and technique!

 

[JasonC8301]

I find that the AutoInt/Valugard's Machine Polish/Swirl Remover is along the lines of 3M Finesse It II. It leaves a nice clean surface to layer Zaino to you're heart's content. If the swirls are not removed or if you are left with a slight haze, you may follow that with a finer polish such as Meguiar's #9 or 3M SMR. Then dawn wash or spray down with 50/50 alcohol/water. Then layer Zaino.



As jgv said, I personally am trying to make it a goal to get my hands on some 3M Perfect It III MG (along with a rotary.) From all the praises on this forum, I think I will get the 3M before the rotary. I did however get my computer speakers last night (120 watts!)



Anyhow, back to topic. Nick T. stated it correctly. Its about the journey to the near perfect finish. As said before you can get all the products out there and still have crappy results due to the person applying it to the paint not knowing how to use each product.



Jason

 

[imported_jgv]

As jgv said, I personally am trying to make it a goal to get my hands on some 3M Perfect It III MG (along with a rotary.) From all the praises on this forum, I think I will get the 3M before the rotary.



Jason

I've been using it both with the rotary and the PC. Easy to use both ways, less splatter with the PC.

 

[Dave N]

Thanks for the input so far.



I've used 3M SMR and Meguiar's Fine Cut Cleaner in the past with very good results. (I know the Fine Cut Cleaner says rotary use only, and I'm using a PC, but I think they just recently changed the application guidlines, and it used to say it was OK for a DA -- anyway, it works well for me). With these two products and a CMA white pad, I buff at 2 or 3 on the PC for a while, then crank it up to 5 and continue to buff until there is vitually no product left on the paint. Of course this gives a very nice result, and these two products contain fillers/oils.



The ValuGard Machine Polish/Swirl Remover, however, specifically says "DO NOT DRY BUFF - always have product on buffing area to assure lubrication of finish." From the way the rest of the directions read, I think they are specific to a rotary (I use a PC). I only used this stuff once,kept the PC to about 4, and always made sure the pad was well lubricated. The results I got weren't as good as with SMR or the Fine Cut Cleaner. It left a little haze.



What do you guys think?:nixweiss Do you think I could safely "dry buff" this a little with a PC? By "dry buff", I mean using the same technique as with SMR -- buffing on 5 until the product is nearly gone. I guess the only way to find out is to try it...