alright this pc is tickin me off

N

noxen

New member
Heres the before pictures of the C5 I did: (2002 with under 1000 miles but sat on the dealer lot forever, hence the swirls)



co13.jpg


co14.jpg


co15.jpg






and heres after med cut with cutting pad, dacp, and sfp followed by VM



co22.jpg


co23.jpg




I used the E pattern..applying 10 pounds of pressure once in one way, then 10 pounds the other way then going back and forth with the airflow on the car



it dusted like crazy



first I was ok with the 2 bmws I did because they have hard clearcoats, but this just pissed me off..what am i doing wrong? Im thinking of throwing it on ebay for a rotary



help :(
 
it sounds like your using a PC right? I would really get a rotary, i picked one up at autozone for 39 or 49, the vector 7'' polisher/grinder. Pretty good device. You WILL see the difference in your progress with it.
 
Yes I used #1 with the PC on 6 with a meg cutting pad..it removed a lot of the heavy swirling and even got out some bird residue that looked like it etched the paint



it was dusting all over the place too, i really worked it in



if you look in the light though you can see so many scratches, like my 10 hours wasnt worth the effort



what do you mean by the DACP being "fresh"?
 
Honestly, with swirls of that magnitude I would go straight to the rotary.



I think that with time and experience you can acheive better results with the PC but, some defects just require the use of a rotary.



Good luck!
 
BlackRegal said:




As far as fixing the problem... I would hit the area a few times with DACP & a cutting pad. Some people will tell you to work DACP indefinitely to get the best performance... However remember that since DACP is a "buffered abrassive", its most agressive cutting action is when it is fresh, and the more you work it, the less abrassive it becomes. This is good in a sense because it helps DACP "buff itself out". However, it also means that if the defects your trying to address haven't been removed in the first bit of polishing on a particular area, DACP will be less & less effective at removing those defects the longer you work it. If the defects remain, instead of working DACP into a powder, re-apply fresh DACP (i.e. fresh "full cut" DACP). Once you think you've addressed the swilrs/hazing you're trying to remove, switch to a polishing pad and work the final application of DACP until it begins to disappear/dust up, allowing the DACP to "buff itself out". Then follow up with SFP and a polishing pad, that should remove remaining haze & minor marring possibly left behind by the DACP step. Unless you're using VM as the protective layer, I would skip it altogether. SFP has plenty of oils in it, and you could go straight to wax.
Click to expand...



Thanks BlackRegal for taking the time to post your technique and thoughts! This taught me something and I wanted to express my gratitude.
 
Looks like time for a rotary, I just got one and I'm going to try to get some scrap to practice with
 
Noxen- Using rotary-only products with a PC can cause problems! Using a rotary on a black car, with a C5's contours, with no prior experience can *really* cause problems!



Oh, and the clear on a C5 is pretty hard (I had one). Just gotta find a product/pad/machine combo that works for *you*. If you're not getting the results you want with what you're using, you gotta either change your technique or change your products or both.



You can use the same PADS on any machine as long as you have the correct backing plates (PC and rotary take different ones).



Don't trade the PC for a rotary. If you get "rotary holograms", which usaully happens to everyone at some point, you'll need the PC to get them out anyhow.



Some of us find Meg's polishes sorta tricky to use. 1Z's stuff is, on the other hand, *very* user-friendly. If you can fix it by PC, you can do it with the 1Z polishes.



1z Ultra/cutting pad, speed 6; 1Z PP/cutting pad, speed 6; 1Z PP/polishing pad, speed 6. Repeat last step until it's nearly perfect. Then 1z Metallic or Wax Polish Soft/polishing pad at speed 5-6 until it *is* perfect. Plan on spending *many* hours doing this by PC. Remove your polish residued with a VERY soft MF so you don't induce new marring.
 
Noxen.



A PC won't generate enough heat to properly work with Meguiar's Med. Cut Cleaner .. DACP is about as far as you can go but some have had success using Compound Power Cleaner as well.



To me, it looks as though you have compound hazing left behind. I'd hit it with DACP/Polishing pad at speed 5. A second application might be required.



Then following with the SFP. If you still have the muted effect, then a rotary with a polishing pad might be required using SFP to clean up the haze.



Then following up with a PC and VM would be bring out the extra pop.



The biggest issue's I continually see on the board with a PC is:



1. Using a product not design for light polishing and PC.

2. Not working the product long enough.

3. Working the product too quickly i.e. moving the PC across the area to quickly.



The PC was never meant to be used as an all purpose scratch remover. It's meant for a safe light polishing tool.



People can lean on it to get a bit extra bite, use abrasive's that don't break down quickly but it's really hit or miss whether you'll be successful under those situations.



A rotary can be used with almost any product but you have to know what you are doing.



For a quick spot fix, probably anyone with common sense can use it.



For a whole car repair, the inexperienced person is probably going to create a burn through, buffer swirl etc and wreck the finish.



Paco
 
Accumulator said:
Plan on spending *many* hours doing this by PC. Remove your polish residued with a VERY soft MF so you don't induce new marring.
Click to expand...



Oh yes, can I attest to this!:shocked I got the rotary, so sometime down the road I know I'll be able to introduce it into my detailing arsenal :up
 
Sounds like your product may be too strong for your equipment.



On a heavily swirled, black C5 I did, I had great success with Menzerna IP/FP.
 
BlackRegal said:
Once you think you've addressed the swilrs/hazing you're trying to remove, switch to a polishing pad and work the final application of DACP until it begins to disappear/dust up, allowing the DACP to "buff itself out".
Click to expand...



Ah, use DACP with two pads, cutting then polishing, that I will keep in mind :up
 
ZaneO said:
Sounds like your product may be too strong for your equipment.



On a heavily swirled, black C5 I did, I had great success with Menzerna IP/FP.
Click to expand...



This would be my recommendation as well.



I'd put the IP on at 4.5 and go over it twice if there is still swirling. Then I'd FP at 2.8 - 3.0 nice and peaceful like.



Should be no problem.
 
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