Advice Please

Debelli

Debelli

New member
Figured I'd put this question out for you who are the professionals.

I've been reading about claying a car and how many people swear by it. I've also read people who've seemed to screw up their car doing it wrong as well. I've resigned to the fact that I'm not confident enough to take that kind of plunge on my brand new car. Now, maybe if my OH will allow me to use his Caddy as a "test" vehicle to see how bad I can screw his car up first, then maybe...:dunno Hmmm, just had an idea - ask the EX if I can do a test on his old car:lol:devil

I know after reading that many people feel a clay bar is the best thing since ice cream (for me, that would NEVER be - love ice cream!). In reading a lot of posts/info I see where salt from winter and industrial fallout seem to be a big reason for claying. I live in Miami where there is really not much industry to have fallout from and we don't salt our roads, obviously;) I know there's other elements though - but worth claying for?

I read where some say it's abrasive while others say it's not - so who to believe - or are there more than 1 kind and both are right?

BUT, until the possibility of claying, if ever, can someone guide me on what I can do for my car now - minus the claying? Though I've only had the car for a month, it sat on the lot for quite a few months and of course, whatever they did from production to lot sitting hasn't been anything helpful - that's a given.

I'm not detail savvy and have been trying to educate myself on this site as well as the web. I'm hoping to find something that I feel confident in using and will find easy enough to do and continue with. Just washing my car and drying it takes me a long time, can't imagine where I'd find time to do all the steps I've read about - maybe when I get my 3-step platform ladder it will be a little faster, but as it stands now, just doing this simple thing takes me a while.

Background: Dark blue 05 Sante Fe SUV - live where it's hot and humid and lots of rain in the summer (with an occasional hurricane some years) Car is out in the heat / sun 24/7. Would like to obtain a mirror like gloss - love how that looks (yes, I know about ZAINO - another product that scares me, so please don't suggest that). Don't want to have to go in to debt buying all different kinds of products, just want some that work like they're suppose to. Have the usual marring/spiderweb look on the dark paint.

Was looking at one site that had some car pictures posted on it, there's a black car that looks awesome - they recommended WOLFGANG (pre-polish and the actually protectant) and then another car they did with Wolfgang (2 step) and Vanilla Moose + #16 (two step) - not that I know any of these products - but any comments?

Do you all clay all the cars you detail, at least the first time? If not, how do you decide what car to clay and what car not to clay if it's never been clayed before?

I sure do wish that someone who knows about detailing would do a class for those of us who'd like to learn. I'm surprised that some of the big companies don't do this as a workshop at places like Pep Boys and the like - similar to what Home Depot does with their bldg materials. I'd surely take a class on detailing if there was one given!

Just think, if it was dead summer where you are and I came to you for detailing and told you I didn't want my car clayed, and with the info above about my car, what would be your course of action?

Thanks for all and any input. I'd like to get the ball rolling on this and get this car done someway already-if I don't do something soon and keep reading, it will never get done :)

Debbie



DCP_3575.jpg


CAR
 
Its good that you are questioning whether or not you should clay, but it really isn't as dangerous as you might think. If your car feels rough, then it needs to be clayed. The IFO comes from more than factorys. If you drive your car on the freeway at all then you are in an environment that could cause the need for clay. Heavily populated areas are big concerns for pollution in the air that create problems on the surface. Here is my guide to claying that you might find useful.

Where have you read that people have messed up their car with clay? The only way to mess up your car with clay is to not keep it clean and basically not follow directions. If you keep your clay clean and never ever use a piece that you dropped, then you really can't do too much damage with clay as long as you pay attention to what you are doing. On a scale of 1 to 10 I would say that claying is a 3. Maybe one step above actually washing your car. Don't fear it too much. ;)

I try to offer detailing classes on a local level every now and then. I agree that it would be nice to have it offered on a national level, but there just isn't that kind of interest in it. The companies who do offer it can charge hundreds of dollars for just a one day class. There is interest, but not enough to support a national push for classes. Thankfully there are forums like this to get people started with. :)
 
Wow! That was long haha. I would definatly reccomend claying the car especially if it is new. Cars from dealers get alot of fallout from the factory and being on lots. Its pretty hard to screw up when claying. Split your clay into 2 peices so if you drop one you still have clay. ONce you drop clay it is done. Dont use it anymore. Just spray and rub the clay back and forth until it is smooth. Keep spraying and keep the surface lubricated. roll the clay back up when it gets dirty and make it into a ball and continue claying. Im guessing the poeple who dont think clay is bad dont have real detailing knowledge. You dont have to clay every detail. 2-3 times a year is usually good or whenever your paint has lost slickness.

Since your car is new you shoulndt have to do a huge regimen to get your car clean.

Wash
Clay
Wash
Polish (SSR 2 or 1, or #80)
Wax (Anything really works)

I suggested those products becuase they arent that expensive. A pc will definatly be benifical to any detail you do. I left alot of holes and our fellow DCers can help fill them in ( preferably with no bondo)

Greg
 
Deb,

First of all, you don't need a class to learn how to do this stuff. Trust me, it's not rocket science or brain surgery as some would have you thing. Besides, by looking at your vehicle, you've already got a pretty good handle on this stuff. Just take your time, and pay attention to the details. Remember, when it comes to paint, it's all in the prep.

Here are some suggestions........

Try the Meguiar's Quik Clay that you see in Wally World or wherever. It is an extremely mild clay, so it won't scratch if you use the lube properly........ which is easy. Start by using plenty of lube, and then ease up on the lube until the clay just glides nicely over the paint....... occasionally, you will "feel" it grab the contaminates.

As for the mirror-like finish, try Zaino......... just kidding! :lmfao

Seriously, consider the following.....

A good chemical paint cleaner.
Clay bar....... you don't always need to clay. Check and see if the surface is rough.
A light swirl remover.
A good synthetic wax........ they tend to give more of a mirror-like finish than carnauba. Although, with your black paint, you may prefer the deep, wet, rich look that a carnauba system give you.

HTH
 
I would agree with the information already provided. Claying is really easy to do. It is very important also imo. You may not have salt on the roads in Miami, but you've got plenty of it in the air from the saltwater around you. As long as you keep it lubricated and clean, you don't have anything to worry about.
 
Deb, coming from another New b to another. I just clayed my Nissan Altima today and all I can say is wow~!!!. The car was already blowing me away. Not hard. Take your time and do a little at a time.
 
I like the fact that you're asking detailed, specific questions and that you're clear about what you're trying to accomplish.

My take on claying is that it's the gentlest way to remove stubborn (above the surface) dirt and contaminants. Your roads aren't salted and you're not close to the ocean, but every car around you (including your own) has brakes with iron rotors. Everytime someone uses their brakes, clouds of fine iron particles are released into the air. Then there's soot from factories, vehicle exhausts etc, etc, etc.

(PS: There are differing levels of clay from non-abrasive to varying levels of abrasiveness)

Sometimes after claying, I will notice the surface of the finish (looking at it from about 6" away) has a very, very mild wet-sanded look to it (dull high spots etc). These areas are easily brought back with mild polishes and the finish is incredible afterwards.

Relax about product selection. For starters you can use Meguiars or Mothers products until you get the hang of things and decide you want to experiment. I'm partial to Meguiars, both the Professional Line and the Consumer Line.

Like mentioned by someone else, getting a PC (Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher) is almost like getting a magic wand. The level you can bring your car to with this machine is unbelievable.

For more information about anything, try the SEARCH button. If you can't fvind what you're looking for, by all means ASK. There is a wealth of information here and dozens of people willing to help. The only dumb question is the one not asked.
 
Thanks to all of you who've replied, much appreciated!:D Also appreciated that you understand my questioning of it all. I can't be one of those that jump in feet first without asking questions beforehand - if not, I'm sure to screw something up moreso than I possibly could with getting questions answered first:rolleyes:

I can see where you all feel so strongly about the claying. I have to admit, I the hand in the plastic glove trick (like those used at the deli to make sandwiches) and could definitely feel what you all are talking about. I opened the door and felt the door jamb, which of course doesn't get the exposure, and felt nothing - makes one understand a lot better.:)

Few questions I have in mind at this time...

1. Do you HAVE to wash your car with Dawn before you clay if your car has never been waxed? If your car is right from the dealer, isn't it just the clearcoat, no wax? Not crazy about the idea of using Dawn.

2. When you clay, when these particles are removed from the finish, I take it you are leaving microscopic holes in the finish, which I guess is filled in with whatever you're suppose to use afterwards?

3. Grades of clay. How do you know which clay is the finest and will be the safest to use (in my hands)?

4. Can you clay and then do other steps that need to be done another day? I may not be able to do whatever needs to be done in one day. Takes me long enough just to wash my car! :rolleyes:

5. With the "lube" you put on the car, how does the clay p/u the stuff when you have this liquid barrier??? Just call me curious ;)

I read on another website: Too bad clay bars can and will take off some of your clear coat. That's why you only use it when you have to...... Is this true????? I REALLY don't want to harm the cc. Someone else rebuttled this statement to be not true I might add.

JOYRIDE has offered to clay the car for me (we've found we live nearby each other). While I appreciate his offer AND the time it must take to do this - I asked that he instead teach me since he has done this more times than I ever will in my life, and I really want to learn. I was also able to view a "video" someone made - made it look REALLY easy. Would someone comment about his instructions and what you agree upon/disagree upon?

CLAYING

May take a while to load if you have a slooooow dial-up connection like mine.:bigups

Jngrbrdman, first off - love your sight! Can't wait to see your Detailing for Beginners! You mentioned CLAY MAGIC - I guess you mean to buy the blue one? How do you feel this differs with Mothers, which seems to be the easiest to find in the stores in my area. I found the 200gr CM bars for $19.95 (even cheaper by the case). I read where others screwed up their car somehow on other websites - probably, as you say, they didn't follow directions, or maybe used a bar that was too abrasive. Wish I lived closer - I'd surely take your class :)

GREG, thanks for your input - the regimen you posted doesn't sound ALL that bad;)

BOSS, seems I got you fooled - that car only looks that good because it's new!:lol It's only been washed and dried, a little QD here and there, but that's all. Hmmm, my Wally World doesn't seem to carry the clay - only places like Pep Boys, Discount Auto. You mentioned -A light swirl remover and A good synthetic wax - any brands that come to mind. You also mentioned the carn. wax but I heard with the heat and humidity we have here in Miami that it may not be good to use, but instead a polymer? Haven't a clue, just what I heard/read.

AUDI, true, we do have salt in the air here - why the brass seems to pit so easily down here!

MIX, thanks! Is your car new too? What steps did you follow before and after claying? Any newbie tips?

DON, thanks for making things more clear - it's like you know, but when someone else explains it, it just makes "sense". Ummm, what you said
"Sometimes after claying, I will notice the surface of the finish (looking at it from about 6" away) has a very, very mild wet-sanded look to it (dull high spots etc).
Click to expand...
This tends to bother me:bigscream Forget the PC - power tools in my hand?
:rolling

Debbie
 
This should help clear things up a bit more:

1) No. A regular wash is fine.

2) Probably, that's where the fillers in some products come into play.

3) Clay Magic Blue, Mothers or Meguiars clay are the most commonly
used/mildest.

4) Claying doesn't take much longer than washing, but yes you can
polish/wax later (I wouldn't wait months though).

5) The lube is like shaving cream, it lets the clay glide across the surface
easier.

False, clay does not remove your clearcoat, just anything ON the clear.

It's hard to hurt your paint with clay, unless you do something really stupid: Not wash your car first, Use the clay after it's been dropped on the ground, never fold it over to expose fresh clay etc. For the most part claying is a no-brainer. The clay bars at auto parts stores are 9/10 times the mild ones. Abrasive clays are a bit harder to find usually paint/body shop equipment stores.

Meguiars Professional Line # 9 is a good swirl remover and their NXT was is a decent polymer. Don't let the "Professional" scare you, you might have to find a Paint/Body Equipment store for the #9 (if you go there take a serious look at the # 20 Polymer sealant). Polymers do tend to outlast carnuabas in extreme conditions.

I didn't mean to scare you with the comment about "mildly wet-sanded look." These marks are easily removed with a cleaner wax/swirl remover.

Like I mentioned before, if you have a question...ask.

PS One of the guys here has his 6-year-old (give or take) using a PC on his car...kinda demonstrates how safe they are to use.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top