Advice for a Glaze in my regimen

F

FLAteam

New member
I've read several threads about glazes and I've been told previously on threads I've made that I should add a glaze to my detailing regimen...here's how I go about my normal detailing process:



1. Wash (Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo and Conditioner)

2. Clay Bar (Clay Magic)

3. Mothers Cleaner Wax

4. LSP (Meguiars NXT or Mothers Reflections)



Its pretty simple but where should the glaze go? I'm not really hardcore detailing but I've heard so many good things about using glaze. I'm under the assumption glaze should be used after Clay bar and before the LSP. I guess I sorta use the cleaner wax as a paint cleaner right now, but after its gone, I want to use glaze instead.



Any suggestions on which one I should get? I read good things about Meguiars Speed Glaze (#80 i think) and its not too expensive (on Amazon.com its like $13 for 32 oz)I'm not looking to spend that much, but I think the $13 for 32oz is a good deal...



Thanks!
 
I did a little more research...would I benefit more from the Speed Glaze (#80) or the Hand Polish (#81)? I've only heard good things about both, and the hand polish is about half the price...From what I can tell the Speed Glaze is a cleaner, polish and glaze all-in-one whereas the Hand Polish is a straight up polish...
 
Glazes fill. They should go just before the LSP. Speed Glaze may have some fillers in it, but it's a polish, as is #81.



For a glaze, go with something like Red Moose Machine Glaze (RMG) by Clearkote
 
I don't have a machine/electronic buffer, I've been doing everything by hand. I have a black car, but I also do my brother's silver car. I'll try to look up what I can on the RMG, but I like Meg's stuff and its usually at a good price...
 
If you are working by hand on a vehicle that is basically defect free and you are wanting a glaze for the shine properties then go with Meg's #7. If you are working on a vehicle that has swirls or scratches and you want a glaze for the filling/hiding properties then go with Meg's #9. Both of those products are in the Professional line but are available OTC at most auto parts stores like NAPA or similar.
 
+1, and if you can't find it, see if you have a Sherwin Williams Automotive or similar paint and body supply shop, they can usually get it to you with no charge to send over from the warehouse.
 
Thanks for the recommendations...its promted me to do more research and what I've found is that right after Clay Bar, I've got to use



1. Paint cleaner (Meg's Medallion Paint Cleaner)

2. Polish (#81)

3. Glaze (#7)



From my understanding, #9 covers the polish and glaze and the #80 covers all three steps.



I generally don't want to spend too much time doing three individual steps, so is there a product you could recommend that would get all 3? I know there's some people that say you can't clean and fill at the same time, so what would be the most cost and time effective product I could use, given my current regimen?
 
Jason M said:
If you are working by hand on a vehicle that is basically defect free and you are wanting a glaze for the shine properties then go with Meg's #7. If you are working on a vehicle that has swirls or scratches and you want a glaze for the filling/hiding properties then go with Meg's #9. Both of those products are in the Professional line but are available OTC at most auto parts stores like NAPA or similar.
Click to expand...



Great advice. I'd like to add to this as well. If you want to venture out into a different product line-up which I can assure you that you won't be disappointed. Try out Poorboy's White Diamond and Black Hole. They are amazing glazes. :2thumbs:
 
You can think of #9 as having the same properties as #80. The difference is less cut and more filling. That's why I said #9 instead of #80 in your case. Basically since you are working by hand you will want something with more fillers. I would go like this:

Wash

Clay

#9

LSP of choice.

The end.



I just used the new #105 for the first time by hand and it was awesome! Better than scratchX by hand at removing defects. However, since you are wanting a simple process I still stand by my original recommendation I listed above. The area I worked by hand was an area that could not be buffed with a machine. It was the trunk area under a wing and a buffer wouldn't fit. I can't imagine trying to do an entire car like that. You really have to go at it with 105 by hand to get correction. If you have the will and time then go for it with 105. It's correcting abilities by hand are insane!
 
#105 has the cut of #83 but with a little bit less micro marring and offers some slight protection. Does #80 really have any fillers in it? As far as I know it's strictly a paint corrective polish and has no fillers like #9. #9 doesn't do much for paint correction, it's just able to hide them.
 
Jason M said:
You can think of #9 as having the same properties as #80. The difference is less cut and more filling. That's why I said #9 instead of #80 in your case. Basically since you are working by hand you will want something with more fillers. I would go like this:

Wash

Clay

#9

LSP of choice.

The end.



I just used the new #105 for the first time by hand and it was awesome! Better than scratchX by hand at removing defects. However, since you are wanting a simple process I still stand by my original recommendation I listed above. The area I worked by hand was an area that could not be buffed with a machine. It was the trunk area under a wing and a buffer wouldn't fit. I can't imagine trying to do an entire car like that. You really have to go at it with 105 by hand to get correction. If you have the will and time then go for it with 105. It's correcting abilities by hand are insane!
Click to expand...



Awesome. I'll defintely look into my local Carquest store. I guess I really wanted it all to be a one-step and the #80 and #105 aren't appropriate for hand buffing, so if the #9's all I need and has those extra fillers, it seems to be the best choice for my detailing regimen.
 
It's not that #80 or #105 are not appropriate for hand use. They are. It's just that I think #9 is more appropriate for what you are trying to accomplish.
 
Thanks for all the advice, I'm looking forward to using the #9! I just ordered it from Amazon ($8) and 200g Aggressive Meg's Clay bar ($18). Free shipping and a $5 off mail in rebate from Meguiar's is gonna put the grand total at $21!
 
DC = Deep Crystal, right? I guess I'm not a big fan of the Deep Crystal line of Meg's...seems super entry level and I've used a few things from that line with not so great results. But, maybe I'll check it out once I've run out of the #9 (unless the #9 blows me away).
 
well, if it doesn't work out too well, i'm always open for more suggestions. i just need/want all those steps to be combined. Once I get a new car, I'll probably take all the steps one at a time, but I'm working on my 12-year old civic, my brother's 5-year old lancer and other friend's cars, so I'd like to have a "shortcut" method for now (these are all practice runs until i get the real deal!)...



...but i gotta tell ya, I'm not a big fan of Deep Crystal anything...isn't that why Meg's has "higher level" stuff like NXT, Gold Class and Mirror Glaze? I really like those Megs lines and Mothers stuff
 
I don't think there is anything wrong with the DC line. I use DC1 all the time to clean underhood areas, wheels, and door jambs. I am now moving more towards #105 and #151 for those areas though. I just love the amount of cut they have even by hand and they are just as easy to work with IMO.

Also, I would be surprised if you don't like #9. It's a really great product as long as you know what it should be used for and don't expect it to do something that it isn't made to do. Not to mention the shine it leaves.

Good luck and make sure to post some pics when you are done!
 
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