Acrylics - Longevity ??

D

DuMouixe

New member
Does Klasses AIO and others AJ blur out over time? Like Liquid Glass would

if it were left neglected? Require monthly boosts? I have heard this but thought I'd ask

here. Had a guy tell me the Klasse almost became like a monkey on his back.



Since my car is garage parked, could I get away with a more traditional approach?



This is on a new Mazda 6 with Dark Grey Metallic paint.



There is a bit of polishing required to correct acid rain spots, swirl marks and overspray.

I had worked with 3M009 and Megs #7, since the clear was recent shot on the car. Got a

decent portion of the contaminatates out with 3 passes by hand on a test section.

Would have been a bit more wowed with a slighty larger bite, or should I do more

passes?



I am going to do this by hand since I'm a newbie an a bit askeered of the PC etc....



I was planning on using IP and AIO but am wondering if something non-acrylic could

replace the klasse. I also don't want to open things up with IP and get stuck. But I do want to try the IP.



Any thoughts? (( non-acrylic or acrylic? ))



The products I have already are



3MCompound (which I don't really plan on using, it's only a 8oz bottle)

3M009 (almost out) foam pad glaze for dark cars

#7

NXT

S100
 
DuMouixe said:
Had a guy tell me the Klasse almost became like a monkey on his back.
Click to expand...



:rofl That is too funny. I guess that's one way to look at a desire to layer SG! I think that almost every Autopian has the monkey of wanting to keep their car shiny.



Doing swirl removal by hand will kill you, but don't worry about "opening" it up, if you're not done, and worried something happen to it, put a little #7 or NXT over it until you're ready to finish the polishing.
 
Anybody in SoCal that could look at my paint? Thomas, you out there? Anybody?



Just lost touch with car care, serves me right I guess. No wonder, there are

so many products now it would make ones head spin.



I like Protect-All for my motorcycle paint. I sound like Homer Simpson here.



I ask because I have my finger on the button over at properautocare.com.



ordering

APC

Roll-Off

#34

3M009 (in case that's what ends up turning me on)

Glass Scrub

IP

AIO





Wasn't even going to mess with SG.



Don't wanna let a monkey loose on my back...
 
The swirls are kind of isolated, it's mostly virgin clear coat that needs cleaning.



I think I'm in over my head.
 
If the clear is pretty new and all you have are minor swirls, why not use FP with the PC? You're less likely to damage the paint with a PC than with your hand because of the even pressure. I've seen someone use AIO by hand to clean a waterspot and went through the clear!
 
I don't know how extensive the swirling is and of course my truck is a much lighter color than yours but here is what I do. I use the Klasse twins but even the SG gets a little dull after a while and a "boost", as you say, now and then is required. Use an acrylic based QD to bring back the gloss. I like Menzernas HGAS (very wet looking) and I will soon try Jeff's Acrylic Gloss.



Better yet, make your own QD for wonderful results. I found this recipe a while back after someone posted it here at Autopia: take three parts distilled water to one part Klasse SG and put in a fine mist spray bottle. For the money, this homebrew is the best QD for putting over Klasse.
 
I thought you had to wait a least 30 days for the clear to cure before doing any waxing or sealing. Some recomend 90 days. You can use a pure polish like Mcguires 3, 5, or 7 but that is it. The paint has to breath and cure. Please correct me if I am wrong. I am not a expert by any means.
 
New cars from the factory have their paint baked, and they spend time on the ship crossing the pacific. So no need to wait. But for cars that have been resprayed, yes you are right. give about 2-3 months.
 
Okay, I decided to go with the Menzerna's "weekend warrior" pack.

16oz bottles of AS - FP - FTG - FMJ , a couple pads and clothes....

Keeping life simple. Added IP - HGAS - APC to round out the order.



I got the car back 4 weeks ago and plan on starting the polishing around 40 days.

In 2 weeks from now, I figued a month of planning and learning before I

get into it would help with the final results. It was a PPG Ceramic3 clear.

The rubbed it down with the PO106FF before I go it back, which is cool because

I'm sure it helped with the initial set-up on the first 10 days.



I hope I don't have to wait 3 months. The shop said 30 days and I am going around 45-ish.



There was one section where they didn't respray clear, so that's what I was fumbling around with. Aside from the door with 3M.



Reading about the swirl marks, I don't actually think anything but a wheel buffer will get them out, mainly because that is what put them in. So I will prolly leave them in there or seek further advice at that point. I mean, I have a buffer, I haven't used in years, but I am not terribly excited about using it unless it's more of a last resort type deal.



I'll just use the FP and whatever is in the kit, whip out the IP if I come across a stubborn

area.



I read about the PC, I have been working on my application technique and although I am fairly slow, I'm also fairly consistent. I call it GLIB HAND, don't care too much unless you feel like you have to. Although, yeah, the machine might be nice. I'll test an area once I get my kit. To see how much dexterity is involved.



I popped some #7 on the after it had rained and I HAD to wash it, with NXT wash. to get some gleam on a othwise, limping exterior state of being.



AIO is not completely out, I have that white F150 that may need some love. Maybe my next order some AIO for my leftover IP. The F150 a 97, barely running, but I'd like to keep it for utility. Had deep swirling when I bought it and has never been corrected, just gloss filled since it's white. COULD benefit GREATLY from IP and AIO.



FMJ is similar, being acrylic, but with more work to get there from what I've read.
 
aaron33 said:
...I've seen someone use AIO by hand to clean a waterspot and went through the clear!...New cars from the factory have their paint baked, and they spend time on the ship crossing the pacific. So no need to wait. But for cars that have been resprayed, yes you are right. give about 2-3 months.
Click to expand...



Yeah, I better not screw it up... maybe wait an extra couple weeks for the FMJ and Shield.
 
Okay, I decided to go with the Menzerna's "weekend warrior" pack.

16oz bottles of AS - FP - FTG - FMJ , a couple pads and clothes....

Keeping life simple. Added IP - HGAS - APC to round out the order.



I got my car back from the body shop 4 weeks ago and plan on starting the polishing around 40 days.

In 2 weeks from now, I figued a month of planning and learning before I

get into it would help with the final results. It was a PPG Ceramic3 clear.

They rubbed it down with the PO106FF before I go it back, which is cool because

I'm sure it helped give the clear a skeleton to harden under the first 10 days.



I hope I don't have to wait 3 months. The shop said 30 days and I am going around 45-ish.



There was one section where they didn't respray clear, so that's what I was fumbling around with. Aside from the door with 3M.



Reading about the swirl marks, I don't actually think anything but a wheel buffer will get them out, mainly because that is what put them in. So I will prolly leave them in there or seek further advice at that point. I mean, I have a buffer, I haven't used in years, but I am not terribly excited about using it unless it's more of a last resort type deal.



I'll just use the FP and whatever is in the kit, whip out the IP if I come across a stubborn

area.



I read about the PC, I have been working on my application technique and although I am fairly slow, I'm also fairly consistent. I call it GLIB HAND, don't care too much unless you feel like you have to. Although, yeah, the machine might be nice. I'll test an area once I get my kit. To see how much dexterity is involved.



I popped some #7 on the after it had rained and I HAD to wash it, with NXT wash. to get some gleam on a othwise, limping exterior state of being.



AIO is not completely out, I have that white F150 that may need some love. Maybe my next order some AIO for my leftover IP. The F150 a 97, barely running, but I'd like to keep it for utility. Had deep swirling when I bought it and has never been corrected, just gloss filled since it's white. COULD benefit GREATLY from IP and AIO.



FMJ is similar, being acrylic, but with more work to get there from what I've read.
 
DuMouixe said:
Okay, I decided to go with the Menzerna's "weekend warrior" pack.
Click to expand...



Does this make me a quitter?



Didn't even think of the color specific application. doh.



I'm about a Texas heartbeat away from getting the PC pack too for grins.



Still enamored with a good hand application, hmmm... my technique seems to be getting better over time, I always though a 'by hand' was preferrable, but as I get older... hands get sore and stuff. Can't beat 'em, join 'em???
 
DuMouixe said:
Okay, I decided to go with the Menzerna's "weekend warrior" pack.
Click to expand...



Does this make me a quitter?



Didn't even think of the color specific application. doh.



I'm about a Texas heartbeat away from getting the PC pack too for grins.



Still enamored with a good hand application, hmmm... my technique seems to be getting better over time, I always thought that a 'by hand' detail was preferrable, but as I get older... hands get sore and stuff. Can't beat 'em, join 'em???
 
The PC beats the hand. And what do you mean by color specific application? You mean using a sealant that looks good for a particular color? By using good technique and products, you are already 98% there. The color specific application is for that last 2% that all autopians want. :)
 
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