Achieving the perfect finish: How to SWAYZE your paint for the highest shine!

Todd@RUPES

Todd@RUPES

Just a regular guy
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Great write Todd.Can you use the same process with the Flex 3401 or what would you change as far as pads or speeds.I have a car too do tomorrow and would like to try out the Flex.Thanks
 
Even if I knew something about computers(which of course I do not) I would not be able to put out the graphics in this write up............ Todd this tutorial is TIGHTNESS. You were able to articulate what usually takes years to learn, especially with the firm pressure part in conjunction with 85RD or UF, used 205 today with the PC me likey more cut than 106FA but a nice finish even by itself or onto 85RD.
 
Excellent write up Todd! :thumbup: I wish I would have had something like this to read a couple of years ago. It would have saved a few brain cells from exploding trying to decipher all the "jeweling" threads on various forums. Thanks and keep up the good work!

Oh, and for the work on the Ferrari :notworthy: :drool5:
 
Auto Concierge said:
Even if I knew something about computers(which of course I do not) I would not be able to put out the graphics in this write up............ Todd this tutorial is TIGHTNESS. You were able to articulate what usually takes years to learn, especially with the firm pressure part in conjunction with 85RD or UF, used 205 today with the PC me likey more cut than 106FA but a nice finish even by itself or onto 85RD.
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I agree 1000x%.

I know of no other forum where you can go to get this kind of info. I also know of no other master detailer that is willing to share such vast knowledge.

:clap:
 
Thank you Bryan, your order is going out today. I need to start getting charts of all these great write-ups from Todd.
 
Totally awsome illustrations & write-up Todd!! I do have a question that you can most likely answer. What's your thoughts on the possible gloss differences as well as the final appearance all together when using a PC in comparison to a rotary for the final jewling process? Can one be more beneficial and/or better on perfectly corrected paint?
 
Outstanding illustrations; they really aid in wrapping one's mind around what is actually going on at the paint level during the polishing process.
 
Awesome post and pics/graphics, Todd !!!!

I always learn so much from your great efforts to teach from your experience and research.

It is so great to have some of the best people and detailers out there working at PAC for us !!

I cannot also think of a better, more comprehensive, with obvious thought and care, put togethere so perfectly, than this, and all the others you have done!!

We all know the sacrifice involved here and the huge amount of hours taken to make this and we all appreciate so much these fine efforts !!

This is why for me, as many of you, the Truth in Detailing Forum is my first look and pretty much my only place I see anymore when I dont have alot of time to look on the Internet.

Between the 3 of you, we are so blessed to have you guys taking such good care of the business end and then taking the time to be engaged with the guys out there in the garage, shop, mobile, etc..

It is more than obvious your first loves are the same as ours, or we would not be doing this sometimes thankless work.

Thanks PAC, thanks again, Todd, and the rest of the team up there that we rely on for advise, service, products, and this Forum, you guys are the BEST!!

DanF
 
Stokdgs said:
Awesome post and pics/graphics, Todd !!!!

I always learn so much from your great efforts to teach from your experience and research.

It is so great to have some of the best people and detailers out there working at PAC for us !!

I cannot also think of a better, more comprehensive, with obvious thought and care, put togethere so perfectly, than this, and all the others you have done!!

We all know the sacrifice involved here and the huge amount of hours taken to make this and we all appreciate so much these fine efforts !!

This is why for me, as many of you, the Truth in Detailing Forum is my first look and pretty much my only place I see anymore when I dont have alot of time to look on the Internet.

Between the 3 of you, we are so blessed to have you guys taking such good care of the business end and then taking the time to be engaged with the guys out there in the garage, shop, mobile, etc..

It is more than obvious your first loves are the same as ours, or we would not be doing this sometimes thankless work.

Thanks PAC, thanks again, Todd, and the rest of the team up there that we rely on for advise, service, products, and this Forum, you guys are the BEST!!

DanF
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i myself wholeheartedly concur... you're making my detailing notebook an informative epistle...
 
David Fermani said:
Totally awsome illustrations & write-up Todd!! I do have a question that you can most likely answer. What's your thoughts on the possible gloss differences as well as the final appearance all together when using a PC in comparison to a rotary for the final jewling process? Can one be more beneficial and/or better on perfectly corrected paint?
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First of all, thank you for the compliments EVERYBODY!!!

To answer you question David, I don't think you can 'jewel' with a Porter Cable or a Dual Action polisher.

This is because a rotary polisher is a single-action machine, the pad is (for the most part) traveling in an oblong line: One curving direction.

Attempting to jewel the paint by using a soft pad, light pressure, and a dual-action polisher is often counter productive. Think of a centrifuge vs. the scrabbler right at the carnival: Both can make you sick, but one is extremely violent because it features quick and sudden changes in acceleration and direction. That scrabbler motion is similar to the internal forces that take place with in the pad.

To get the best finish possible often requires using pressure and a stiffer foam pad when using a dual-action polisher.

If you reduce pressure on the pad of a D/A, you increase the rotational rate of the pad, reduce the the evenness of the cut, reduce the amount of polishing action transfered through the pad, and worse of all, make the directional changes in the pad more dramatic. These sharp changes in direction are akin to taking your heel, digging it into the ground, and pivoting hard. I would say this technique of 'jeweling' the paint with a Porter Cable increases the surface marring left behind and dramatically increases the chance of creating visible 'micro marring' or D/A haze.

I believe you can get equal or near equal results in terms of finish from both a D/A and a rotary, but I believe that the technique required is much different.

That said if I have the time I prefer to 'jewel' the paint with a rotary to ensure I leave nothing on the table where as detailing luminaries like Bryan Burnsworth (who has to be the DA King by now) can great stunning finishes with his DA.
 
I was always looking for better gloss with my UDM but until I get my Flex I was not getting the results I wanted easily using various techniques posted. I had no luck with a UDM1.0 and PO85RD but the flex, black pad, and PO85RD really worked nicely.

What I see is that many giving advice on jeweling etc. are usually referring to techniques with a rotary and as you mention Todd the technique with a DA is much different. In hindsight, I was probably not using enough pressure.
 
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