SK2003TypeS
New member
Thanks for the tips. I gotta get a cut off valve and a rubber nozzle.
Accumulator's Non-Marring Wash Technique
- Thread starter Accumulator
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
SK2003TypeS said:
Get more than one shut-off if you get the Sears one (which is SO easy to operate). Trust me on this, you'll be glad you did when the first one start leaking at the exact wrong time. You just GOTTA change it when it starts to leak; I'm not foolin' about how it'll launch the nozzle!
SK2003TypeS
New member
Ok, now you're scaring me....what if the nozzle would launch ...onto the.....P***T....doh !:scared
Accumulator
Well-known member
Bill D- I dunno, I *think* the two devices are different. The shower-foam gun really makes *foam*-like suds, quite different from anything else I've tried. I'd guess that the Brookstone thing produces a stream of water/soap mix that isn't nearly as foamy. More like a low-power pressure washer.
Might still work fine for inside-the-mitt use, but none of these things are exactly handy or convenient for that.
Just filling the mitt with the shower-foam gun (while the mitt is still in the wash solution bucket) and then gently whisking it across the surface while the foamy water seeps out works pretty well. Well, at least on well-protected, hard paint that isn't too dirty. IMO there's a bit of a range between the "optimal" and the "acceptable".
Might still work fine for inside-the-mitt use, but none of these things are exactly handy or convenient for that.
Just filling the mitt with the shower-foam gun (while the mitt is still in the wash solution bucket) and then gently whisking it across the surface while the foamy water seeps out works pretty well. Well, at least on well-protected, hard paint that isn't too dirty. IMO there's a bit of a range between the "optimal" and the "acceptable".
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Ok Accumulator, will do , thanks :up
in case you see funny characters for quotes in post #1, i'm going to repost a hopefully none squigglies post #1
Accumulator's Non-Marring Wash Technique
A few people have asked me about my non-marring "extreme wash regimen". I've altered it a bit recently (losing the problematic siphon-feed), so here's the current version. I've used this on a few vehicles and it will NOT mar the finish in any way *IF* the paint is protected with something that's pretty slick and the vehicle is washed frequently enough that the dirt isn't allowed to really build up. If you have to "scrub" the dirt off, nothing will prevent marring.
Note that the real problem is that when washing, you have to move (abrasive) dirt over the surface of the vehicle. This can cause marring. Some dirt can "migrate" deep into the knap of a mitt away from the finish, but some will not.
This is admittedly a rather extreme method of washing a vehicle, and it's not something I do on anything except my S8 and XJS. It's just too much work.
This is a condensed version, omitting work on wheels/wheelwells/undercarriage, the use of BHBs in nooks and crannies, and drying technique (blot with WW MFs). It merely covers the basic washing of the exterior. It's can be tweaked to individual preference, but this is how I do it. Please post questions if anything isn't clear or if you wonder why I do something the way I do.
Supplies: two hoses (one for each side of vehicle), rubber coated nozzles and easy to use (with one hand) shutoffs for each hose, five buckets (two wash, two rinse (one set for each side of vehicle, and one for used mitts)), several chenille wash mitts (the more the better), and some Griot's Car Wash. Optional: MF mitts, additional (long) hose with a shower-foam gun attached (filled with an eyeballed mix of Griot's wash solution and set on "full strength mix").
The separate systems for each side of the vehicle make this labor-intensive method easier and a little quicker, but are not absolutely necessary.
Mix the wash solution to your preferred strength. In the buckets or in the shower-foam gun, I just do it by eye, but I make it plenty strong. Try to NOT make a bunch of foamy suds- make solution, not foam. Fill your rinse buckets with clear water.
Begin by rinsing the entire vehicle thoroughly. Try to rinse off as much dirt as possible. Start washing at the top of the vehicle as follows:
With the water shut off (this is why you need the easy to use shutoffs), put the nozzle INSIDE a clean wash mitt. Dunk the mitt into the wash solution, trying to get as much solution as possible in the mitt. Hold the soapy mitt over the finish with the knap of the mitt barely touching the finish. Turn the water on just slightly. You want the water to lubricate the surface and rinse away loosened dirt, but you do NOT want so much water that you overly dilute the wash solution in the mitt. Sweep the soapy mitt over the finish, barely touching it. Don't do too large an area. Put the mitt in your rinse bucket and turn the water on full blast to rinse it out. Turn off the water. Repeat until you've cleaned the panel. Remove the nozzle from the mitt and rinse the panel. Inspect. Repeat as needed. If at any time you notice ANY contamination in the mitt that doesn't rinse out; toss the dirty mitt in the "mitt bucket" and switch to a clean mitt. Optional: rewash the presumably clean surface using a MF mitt and rinse.
Always endeavor to just barely touch the surface. This takes a little practice, especially on the vertical panels. Don't start to "cheat" by covering bigger and bigger areas as you go or by using a mitt once it's visibly contaminated. Add more Car Wash to the wash bucket if you notice it's getting diluted. Periodically, rinse the entire vehicle, keeping it wet so you don't get water spots, and dump and refill the rinse buckets
Optional (highly recommended if the vehicle is especially dirty): put the nozzle of the shower-foam gun inside the mitt for the first passes, blasting foamy wash solution through the mitt. Watch that you don't rub the mitt against the finish with the rigid nozzle of the shower-foam gun (this is another technique that takes a while to master). Then rinse and rewash using the "regular" method explained above.
Accumulator's Non-Marring Wash Technique
A few people have asked me about my non-marring "extreme wash regimen". I've altered it a bit recently (losing the problematic siphon-feed), so here's the current version. I've used this on a few vehicles and it will NOT mar the finish in any way *IF* the paint is protected with something that's pretty slick and the vehicle is washed frequently enough that the dirt isn't allowed to really build up. If you have to "scrub" the dirt off, nothing will prevent marring.
Note that the real problem is that when washing, you have to move (abrasive) dirt over the surface of the vehicle. This can cause marring. Some dirt can "migrate" deep into the knap of a mitt away from the finish, but some will not.
This is admittedly a rather extreme method of washing a vehicle, and it's not something I do on anything except my S8 and XJS. It's just too much work.
This is a condensed version, omitting work on wheels/wheelwells/undercarriage, the use of BHBs in nooks and crannies, and drying technique (blot with WW MFs). It merely covers the basic washing of the exterior. It's can be tweaked to individual preference, but this is how I do it. Please post questions if anything isn't clear or if you wonder why I do something the way I do.
Supplies: two hoses (one for each side of vehicle), rubber coated nozzles and easy to use (with one hand) shutoffs for each hose, five buckets (two wash, two rinse (one set for each side of vehicle, and one for used mitts)), several chenille wash mitts (the more the better), and some Griot's Car Wash. Optional: MF mitts, additional (long) hose with a shower-foam gun attached (filled with an eyeballed mix of Griot's wash solution and set on "full strength mix").
The separate systems for each side of the vehicle make this labor-intensive method easier and a little quicker, but are not absolutely necessary.
Mix the wash solution to your preferred strength. In the buckets or in the shower-foam gun, I just do it by eye, but I make it plenty strong. Try to NOT make a bunch of foamy suds- make solution, not foam. Fill your rinse buckets with clear water.
Begin by rinsing the entire vehicle thoroughly. Try to rinse off as much dirt as possible. Start washing at the top of the vehicle as follows:
With the water shut off (this is why you need the easy to use shutoffs), put the nozzle INSIDE a clean wash mitt. Dunk the mitt into the wash solution, trying to get as much solution as possible in the mitt. Hold the soapy mitt over the finish with the knap of the mitt barely touching the finish. Turn the water on just slightly. You want the water to lubricate the surface and rinse away loosened dirt, but you do NOT want so much water that you overly dilute the wash solution in the mitt. Sweep the soapy mitt over the finish, barely touching it. Don't do too large an area. Put the mitt in your rinse bucket and turn the water on full blast to rinse it out. Turn off the water. Repeat until you've cleaned the panel. Remove the nozzle from the mitt and rinse the panel. Inspect. Repeat as needed. If at any time you notice ANY contamination in the mitt that doesn't rinse out; toss the dirty mitt in the "mitt bucket" and switch to a clean mitt. Optional: rewash the presumably clean surface using a MF mitt and rinse.
Always endeavor to just barely touch the surface. This takes a little practice, especially on the vertical panels. Don't start to "cheat" by covering bigger and bigger areas as you go or by using a mitt once it's visibly contaminated. Add more Car Wash to the wash bucket if you notice it's getting diluted. Periodically, rinse the entire vehicle, keeping it wet so you don't get water spots, and dump and refill the rinse buckets
Optional (highly recommended if the vehicle is especially dirty): put the nozzle of the shower-foam gun inside the mitt for the first passes, blasting foamy wash solution through the mitt. Watch that you don't rub the mitt against the finish with the rigid nozzle of the shower-foam gun (this is another technique that takes a while to master). Then rinse and rewash using the "regular" method explained above.
Accumulator
Well-known member
jahoo- Thanks for tidying that up...I need to rewrite/update this thing (supposed to make it an "article" too) but I never get around to it 
Accumulator
Well-known member
Legacy99- Gee, how time flies, I must be having all sorts of fun....
i'm a noob so contextually i may fail to bring out what the author is really saying so i'm gonna confine myself to only clean up jobs. no pun.imported_Bert
New member
Accumulator said:I need to rewrite/update this thing (supposed to make it an "article" too) but I never get around to it
Has you system changed all that much over the years?
Barry Theal
New member
Geeee's I thought my 3 foaming wash was a little over board! Your a nut Accumulator. LOL Hey that secret package arrived at its destination. It was an exciting moment. The sandwhich will be delivered shortly! <~~~ Was that not cool secret messaging or what!
Alexshimshimhae
New member
so this is the infamous AWM
Accumulator
Well-known member
I haven't been keeping up with this thread Even missed Barrry's not-so-secret message!
I've refined the method, distilling it down, but I'm not 100% sure that what works for *me* with my boosted water pressure will work as well for people with normal water delivery.
I will say that the whole BHB/foamgun, then mitt/foamgun process only takes a *little more time/effort than washing conventionally now that I have the hang of it. And I've basically eliminated the need to do significant correction. As David Fermani has teased me, yeah...there are a few little flaws and most of my vehicles would benefit from a light polishing, but I haven't done a full correction on some of the drivers in *years* and they're still mighty nice (under *any* lighting*
).
Even missed Barrry's not-so-secret message!I've refined the method, distilling it down, but I'm not 100% sure that what works for *me* with my boosted water pressure will work as well for people with normal water delivery.
I will say that the whole BHB/foamgun, then mitt/foamgun process only takes a *little more time/effort than washing conventionally now that I have the hang of it. And I've basically eliminated the need to do significant correction. As David Fermani has teased me, yeah...there are a few little flaws and most of my vehicles would benefit from a light polishing, but I haven't done a full correction on some of the drivers in *years* and they're still mighty nice (under *any* lighting*
).Xilleration
Lumin De Lumine
Heh, I use five or six buckets as well! I thought it was only me!
Listen, a good tip, if you have accumulated a layer of crud on your car is this. When you get into washing the dirty panels with your mitt (I use lambswool) before you dunk it in the rinse bucket, just lay it flat on the windscreen or rear window and pressure wash it, both sides. It takes only a second, but it "fluffs" up the fibres and gets rid of the serious grit, and also allows for a really easy dunk and rinse of the mitt. I find it keeps the mitt good and thick and soft during the wash, rather than getting a bit "flat" as you work it.
Listen, a good tip, if you have accumulated a layer of crud on your car is this. When you get into washing the dirty panels with your mitt (I use lambswool) before you dunk it in the rinse bucket, just lay it flat on the windscreen or rear window and pressure wash it, both sides. It takes only a second, but it "fluffs" up the fibres and gets rid of the serious grit, and also allows for a really easy dunk and rinse of the mitt. I find it keeps the mitt good and thick and soft during the wash, rather than getting a bit "flat" as you work it.
KaPow said:
I have started just shoving the mitt onto the hose and fill them from the inside while running my hand over the outside to work dirt out of the fibers. I do this before dunking in rinse bucket. It really seems to work as I don't have as much stuff in my rinse bucket under my grit guard at the end. It also keeps all that stuff off of my just cleaned car... :xyxthumbs
Accumulator
Well-known member
Note that with my wash technique the mitt(s) shouldn't get very dirty, hardly soiled at all, actually. Even the water in the rinse buckets stays nice and clean even after a winter-filthy wash. The idea is that the dirt gets "dislodged and flushed away" rather than getting caught in the nap of the mitt (and then dragged across the paint, which can cause marring).
extrabolts
New member
Accumulator - No wash is complete without drying. What's your non-marring drying technique?
ray2:
ray2:Accumulator
Well-known member
extrabolts said:
Ah, yeah...gotta keep that in mind and include it when I finally get around to rewriting this thing.
I blow most of the water off with my AirWand, including the wheels/tires. I use the air compressor to get a few potential problem areas (e.g., the felt surround for the sunroof) dry. I prime my WWMFs by doing the windows first. Then I spritz a (very) little QD on the WW and wipe the car dry.
I used to be a lot more involved about it, spraying the QD on the paint, wiping it off first with one MF (maybe a waffle weave, maybe a plush mitt) and then buffing it some more with another MF (usually a plush one). But I've simplified that down to the above-mentioned method and it seems to work just fine.
No, I usually don't blot dry. Just too much of a PIA. No, I don't do a sheeting-rinse as my current shop's water supply system just doesn't accommodate that.
I guess I rely on getting the car clean to preclude drying-induced marring.
I then do the door/trunk jambs and the engine compartment, using QD. I use both WWMF and *cotton* towels and also a lot of cotton swabs. I try to be very gentle about it and the cotton towels I use are (hopefully!) soft enough not to mar if slightly damp with QD. IMO the cotton often dries things better than MFs in this kind of application. This part of the drying takes forever what with hinges/etc. and all the underhood stuff.
Then I go around the car holding a WW against the other potential problem areas that can retain water while I blow them dry with the air compressor. Then I blow the lug/valvestem areas on the wheels dry and wipe them down with a little FK425,often wiping the recessed areas with cotton swabs.
I use the creeper to move around the car drying the lower areas and certain parts of the undercarriage and, on the good cars, the wheelwells. Yeah, with the lower vehicles that involves jacking them up. Under-car areas that are visible (e.g., the trunk shell on Audis, the trailer hitch on the SUVs) always get QD-wiped.
I seldom dress the wheelwells, but if I'm gonna do that this is the time for it. Ditto for dressing the tires and other rubber items.
Then I move the vehicle back and forth while riding the brakes, to wipe the surface rust off the brake rotors. This usually creates a need to rewipe the wheels with more FK425 (or FK146).
Then I clean the glass properly with glass cleaner and a Griot's polypropylene window wipe. One last check for drips and it's done.
Yeah...it's a big, long job that takes a lot of time and effort. Seems to be a least as demanding as the washing part. And yeah, I do all this stuff on every vehicle at every wash