about polishing my mistress

[imported_glfahlc]

don't get it twisted ya'll, my mistress is my 71 vette that i'm attempting to clean up and detail for the winter. i did a test panel yesterday with my makita, fiberglass white pad and sip. i noticed on the white pad some red paint. how do i tell if its single stage paint and what precautions do i need to take in polishing it. by the way, the panel came out gorgeous i just wanna be sure i don't mess up the rest of the car... i'll include pics when i'm done...

 

[imported_Slik560]

White pad + red paint = single stage paint. Just watch the thickness of the paint and be careful on the edges. Contact Bill Luster for Vette specifics. he's the resident master of the glass. :wink:

 

[imported_mobenzowner]

I dont think clear coat was being used in the 70's. With that the case, barring a repaint, all auto's in that age range would be ss.

 

[imported_glfahlc]

i've had it for three years and i don't think its original paint. is there any way i can know for sure if its ss or base and clear coat. is the red tinge on the pad a giveaway that its single stage... just wanna be sure.

 

[imported_Luster]

I do a lot of old Vettes, most of which have single stage paint... Rule of thumb would be to start with the least agressive polish/pad combo, then work your way more agressive as needed.

Second rule of thumb.... Err on the side of caution!!! Be very gentle on the high ridges of the fenders and any other sharp corners... less paint on them... (in fact... it wouldn't hurt to completely stay away from them with the polisher!!!)

SS paint can usually be polished to a very high shine, but it may need to be polished more often than Base/clear.

Show some pics when you get a chance. I love Vettes... (ya think?):cornut:

 

[imported_Flash Gordon]

I do a lot of old Vettes, most of which have single stage paint... Rule of thumb would be to start with the least agressive polish/pad combo, then work your way more agressive as needed.

Second rule of thumb.... Err on the side of caution!!! Be very gentle on the high ridges of the fenders and any other sharp corners... less paint on them... (in fact... it wouldn't hurt to completely stay away from them with the polisher!!!)

SS paint can usually be polished to a very high shine, but it may need to be polished more often than Base/clear.

Show some pics when you get a chance. I love Vettes... (ya think?):cornut:

I 2nd all thats been said by Bill^^^:thumbup:


I will ad, around the top of the fenders/quarter panels(Sharp Edges) I would run a 1" strip of painters tape. When yor finished polishing remove tape and hit those edges by hand using a cotton applicater pad. Those edges tend to have even less paint thickness then the rest of the car.

Don't ask how I know this(69 Stingray :redface

 

[imported_glfahlc]

thanks guys, i'll take some pics when i'm done. the tape on the edges is a good idea...

 

[Todd@RUPES]

+1 on everything that has been said above.

There are only a handful of ways you will see 'color' transfer on the pad.

From cleaning the paint- Even after claying and washing a car (often an older 'beat' up car) you might get a little color transfer from dirt that has 'stained' the paint. Usually this color transfer will often be a different color then the car (unless the staining is happens to be the same color of the car of course).

Every year my grandmother stays with us for a couple of months and drives from Colorado to Florida. She lives in the mountains outside Colardo Springs, which have a lot of clay. Every year I detail her Blazer which is white. The first time I polished it (even after washing and claying it) I was getting orange transfer on the pad from the clay that had embedded into the paint.

From going over rubber trim and seals- This can pick up a black/dirt color on the pad.

From polishing a single stage paint or a paint that as a tinted clear coat (which I guess really isn't clear)- The color transfer in this case is a result of the paint itself mixing with the solvents in the polish and 'sticking' to the pad.

From striking through the clear coat on a clear coated paint- In this case the clear coat is removed and the polishing pad contacts the color coat underneath. As with polishing the single stage/tinted clear paints, the pad is stained by the color of the paint itself.

So how can you tell the difference between single stage/tinted clear coats and 'strike through'...

When you strike through a clear coated paint you will will noticed that the area that has been struck through will have a different tint (and often less sheen) then the surrounding areas. It will be noticeable when you wipe away the polish.

The you polish a single stage or tinted clear coat you should (provided you are using the right polish/pad) notice and improvement in the gloss and clarity but it will be gradual.

Keep in mind that many older cars that have been repainted at various times can have panels that are clear coated and panels that are single stage.

This is why we alway recommend using the least aggressive method of polishing first. Start with something gentle and do a test section.

If you notice color transfer with a mild combination you likely have single stage or tinted clear coat. If you happen to 'strike' through with the least aggressive method (which will be noticeable when you wipe off the residue) then it really isn't your fault. If the paint was SO thin that you could strike through with a finishing polish/pad, then the reality is that paint is days away from total failure.

I wouldn't be overly surprised if you notice some panels are single stage and some are bc/cc.

 

[imported_glfahlc]

gotta give props to you guys that do this everyday... this is hard work on an old plumbers back...

 

[imported_glfahlc]

+1 on everything that has been said above.

There are only a handful of ways you will see 'color' transfer on the pad.

From cleaning the paint- Even after claying and washing a car (often an older 'beat' up car) you might get a little color transfer from dirt that has 'stained' the paint. Usually this color transfer will often be a different color then the car (unless the staining is happens to be the same color of the car of course).

Every year my grandmother stays with us for a couple of months and drives from Colorado to Florida. She lives in the mountains outside Colardo Springs, which have a lot of clay. Every year I detail her Blazer which is white. The first time I polished it (even after washing and claying it) I was getting orange transfer on the pad from the clay that had embedded into the paint.

From going over rubber trim and seals- This can pick up a black/dirt color on the pad.

From polishing a single stage paint or a paint that as a tinted clear coat (which I guess really isn't clear)- The color transfer in this case is a result of the paint itself mixing with the solvents in the polish and 'sticking' to the pad.

From striking through the clear coat on a clear coated paint- In this case the clear coat is removed and the polishing pad contacts the color coat underneath. As with polishing the single stage/tinted clear paints, the pad is stained by the color of the paint itself.

So how can you tell the difference between single stage/tinted clear coats and 'strike through'...

When you strike through a clear coated paint you will will noticed that the area that has been struck through will have a different tint (and often less sheen) then the surrounding areas. It will be noticeable when you wipe away the polish.

The you polish a single stage or tinted clear coat you should (provided you are using the right polish/pad) notice and improvement in the gloss and clarity but it will be gradual.

Keep in mind that many older cars that have been repainted at various times can have panels that are clear coated and panels that are single stage.

This is why we alway recommend using the least aggressive method of polishing first. Start with something gentle and do a test section.

If you notice color transfer with a mild combination you likely have single stage or tinted clear coat. If you happen to 'strike' through with the least aggressive method (which will be noticeable when you wipe off the residue) then it really isn't your fault. If the paint was SO thin that you could strike through with a finishing polish/pad, then the reality is that paint is days away from total failure.

I wouldn't be overly surprised if you notice some panels are single stage and some are bc/cc.

well i defintely have single stage and after using fiberglass orange pad and sip, then on too power finsh and fiberglass white pad its about 75% corrected. i'll have to go back and do it again... man this is hard work.

 

[imported_glfahlc]

can't seem to post a pic...