ABC System

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Focker99

New member
I had a question about this product.



I have a 2005 White Chevy Trailblazer , it was covered with rust blooms after the first time I washed it after purchasing it. The dealer took the vehicle and clayed the entire thing. Months later after washing it it was covered in rust blooms again. They took the vehicle again and clayed it. I recently washed the vehicle and yes the blooms are back.

The dealer advised me now that is must be the roads im driving on(***).



Do you think this product would help in eliminating the blooms on my vehicle or is it a waste of money?
 
ABC will work, but the contamination will come back if you are in a heavily polluted area. I've used several gallons of ABC, and while I like the product, I don't think it's a cure all.



ABC is really good for those vehicles that have HEAVY contamination that would take 2 hours to clay. If you ABC it takes about 30 minutes more than a normal wash, and then you only have to do a light claying that takes about 15 minutes.



Here's the thing though. Like clay, you will have to ABC again as your car gets contaminated, so it's not something you do once and never have to do again.



ABC does have the benefit of chemical decontamination by way of neutralizing acids. But most low alkaline(non caustic) APC's can safely be diluted to do the same thing. Claying alone won't do this, and will leave the root of the bloom in the paint. I have seen 14 year old cars that have never been ABC'd but are regularly clayed, polish, and waxed and they look better than 95% of any NEW car you'll see on a dealer lot, so it really depends on your personal habits.



So you really have only two choices. Clay every 3-6 months, or ABC every 6 months to a year. If this is a car that you maintain and wax constantly I would stick with clay. If this is a car that oly gets waxed/sealed 1-2 times a year, I'd use ABC before your annual/bi-annual wax/sealing.
 
The problem you are describing is rail dust contamination. I don't know what ABC is, but I have seen this recommended for curing rail dust problems. Claying won't get it done because claying only actually shears off the tip of the contaminants stuck in your paint. This stuff will actually remove the contaminants altogether.
 
FK1's kit is functionally similar to AutoInt's ABC - although FK1 is the kit I personally use, ABC will work well too. Either decon kit will eliminate any contamination on your paint, although it will come back as you drive or park in areas that suffer from severe rail dust/other fine metal fallout. Unfortuneatly, there is nothing out there that will prevent new contamination, so I would reccomend ABC'ing twice a year, and claying monthly, on top of keeping a good LSP.
 
themightytimmah said:
FK1's kit is functionally similar to AutoInt's ABC - although FK1 is the kit I personally use, ABC will work well too. Either decon kit will eliminate any contamination on your paint, although it will come back as you drive or park in areas that suffer from severe rail dust/other fine metal fallout. Unfortuneatly, there is nothing out there that will prevent new contamination, so I would reccomend ABC'ing twice a year, and claying monthly, on top of keeping a good LSP.
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I have used both Kits, and highly recomend the ABC over the FK1 stuff. The FK1's 1st step is loaded with hydrocarbon solvents(high percentage of kerosene) and the smell will not leave your bucket for weeks. The FK1's 2nd step gets gummy as you work it and begins to dry really quickly, even under ideal situations. From what I've gathered, ABC is the evolution of the FK1 kit, similar chemistry, but better(no hydrocarbon solvents, and a lot easier to work with).



Neither will prevent recurring contamination though.
 
I've had good results with the ABC but that was on new vehicles, and once the ferrous contamination gets a toehold it can be tough to completely eliminate. Still, I'd get the ABC (or the FK stuff, but I'm sticking with ABC).



Clay while the acidic step is dwelling; yeah it'll eat your clay but it helps get rid of the stuff like rail dust.



Then seal it up and keep it maintained. These days I still get (new) contamination, but it's almost always in the LSP, not *throught* it and into the paint. I just clay it away (and it stays gone) with the Sonus green and reseal.
 
that's what I should have done with my rail dust baby when I got it. The ABC.



Between FMJ, NXT, S100, Protect All and Speed Shine, things are somewhat

under control.



thanks for the tip on the stinky FK-decon line. a good selling point for ABC there.



does the 425 stink too, cause I was going to order some tomorrow? Craving slickness

and shine.
 
So I'm going to purchase the ABc and attempt to go through the process on my vehicle.

I had a few questions.



1. When I use the acid I use it in a spray bottle and spray it on the surface and then clay it as it dries ? Do I wait the time on each panel then spray it off and move to the next panel?



2. Do I need to keep the acid of the trim or other items or is it safe on the other parts ?





Thanks.........
 
Don't let the acid dry. Keep adding more so it doesn't. Yeah, that can involve running around the vehicle but it's not that bad (I did my minivan with no trouble).



I try to keep the acid off glass and anodized aluminum, but I didn't mask or anything like that.



I didn't spray the acid; I put it in a squeeze bottle and used a sponge to apply it. I wouldn't spray it, too likely that it'll go places you don't want it.



Study up on the instructions at the AutoInt website. This stuff is actually made for pros who've presumably been trained in its use. It's nothing to be nervous about, but I'd do a bit of studying before you use it.
 
Fox911 said:
So I'm going to purchase the ABc and attempt to go through the process on my vehicle.

I had a few questions.



1. When I use the acid I use it in a spray bottle and spray it on the surface and then clay it as it dries ? Do I wait the time on each panel then spray it off and move to the next panel?



2. Do I need to keep the acid of the trim or other items or is it safe on the other parts ?





Thanks.........
Click to expand...





DO NOT SPRAY the acid, the acid must be mitted on, either with a mitt, towel, applicator pad, or sponge.



It is perfectly safe on glass, and in fact is a recomended procedure by Ford to remove contamination and mineral deposits.
 
After the decontamination kit I plan on using NXT wax , but what type of sealant should be used, I would like to buy it localy> I can always oreder too.
 
gbackus said:
..[the acidic "B" step].. is perfectly safe on glass, and in fact is a recomended procedure by Ford to remove contamination and mineral deposits.
Click to expand...



Guess I've been paying too much attention to the dire warnings on the FinishKare website ;)



I'm no authority on the stuff, but I *think* NXT is a "sealant". They just call it "tech wax" for some known-only-to-them reason.
 
Accumulator said:
Guess I've been paying too much attention to the dire warnings on the FinishKare website ;)



I'm no authority on the stuff, but I *think* NXT is a "sealant". They just call it "tech wax" for some known-only-to-them reason.
Click to expand...



Oh believe me, the guys at FinishKare got all huffy when we were discussing the differences between their product and their competitors(AI) and I asked why their TSB's had the dates removed(I have them printed with the dates still on them) yet their competitors had some with current dates.



I still think FK1 makes good products, but I prefer ABC.
 
So what would you advise I used after completing the ABC sytem. i currently have NXT Tech wax and the Speed Detailer. I would like to buy the stuff localy if possible but I will order it thats a better option. Do I need a sealant or polish before the NXT wax. new do this and wondering what the best protection would be after ABC and claying.
 
I don't really follow your question as waxes are not always used in tandem with a sealant. Most people do their prep, then apply their LSP which in your case would be the NXT.
 
Yeah, unless you have marring to polish out. The decontamination (especially with the claying incorporated into the process) is like a super-wash that leaves a spotlessly clean surface. No more, no less.
 
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