A True Barn Find - Impala SS
- Thread starter Danspeed1
- Start date
imported_Yal
New member
Sick find! 
imported_paintxpert
New member
Get it all, the way you did the half hood. Chevy doesnt have the best paint. Careful sanding there isnt that much clear coat there. I am very impressed with your efforts so far. Good Luck!
imported_paintxpert
New member
You wont achieve perfection when blemishes are below the clearcoat. Only NEW paint will be the solution. The detailing process can only do so much. NICE COLOR....one of my personal favorites as a matter of fact.
Ok guys here's a quick update. Interior is 90% completed. This is what I have done so far...
Pulled it all out
Cleaned all the leather parts and even the vinyl parts with Zaino Leather Cleaner
Parts that really needed help were cleaned with a light solution of Castrol Super Clean and distilled Water... no protectant has been applied yet.
My goal is to just kill the mold so it doesn't kill me. When the car is done, I will go back over the interior, focus on the very few spots I have left that aren't 100% perfect, and apply Zaino Leather Protectant and Aerospace 303 Protectant.
First the seats... they were cleaned with Zaino leather cleaner, then they were soaked down in Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil, massaged with my hands, and they are currently sitting in front of my fireplace with the fire place running. The plastic bad idea just made a mess, and I couldn't find a big enough plastic bag that I am comfortable with so I just soaked them down and set them in front of the fireplace. I hope this is ok???????????????????????????????????????
Anyway, here are the pictures.....
Seats after Zaino
Little bit of damage on the corner of the drivers seat
Seats soaked down in leatherique
Seats cooking in front of fireplace for the last 2 hours...
Now Onto the interior as I described above.... Results are outstanding.... carpet doesn't look so good in the photos but looks great in person... (good enough for me)
Pulled it all out
Cleaned all the leather parts and even the vinyl parts with Zaino Leather Cleaner
Parts that really needed help were cleaned with a light solution of Castrol Super Clean and distilled Water... no protectant has been applied yet.
My goal is to just kill the mold so it doesn't kill me. When the car is done, I will go back over the interior, focus on the very few spots I have left that aren't 100% perfect, and apply Zaino Leather Protectant and Aerospace 303 Protectant.
First the seats... they were cleaned with Zaino leather cleaner, then they were soaked down in Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil, massaged with my hands, and they are currently sitting in front of my fireplace with the fire place running. The plastic bad idea just made a mess, and I couldn't find a big enough plastic bag that I am comfortable with so I just soaked them down and set them in front of the fireplace. I hope this is ok???????????????????????????????????????
Anyway, here are the pictures.....
Seats after Zaino
Little bit of damage on the corner of the drivers seat
Seats soaked down in leatherique
Seats cooking in front of fireplace for the last 2 hours...
Now Onto the interior as I described above.... Results are outstanding.... carpet doesn't look so good in the photos but looks great in person... (good enough for me)
S&S Detailing
New member
I can't believe he stained the carpet in 30,000 miles. Everything else is looking like new though, keep it up!:woot:
You can also replace those Styrofoam inserts in the cup holders for a reasonable price if those are overly molded, I think I payed $10 for both of them, made it look really nice and new
It's crazy that those window switch panels on the doors are yellowed still even though it sat in the barn for most of it's life out of any sun. My brothers 30,000 mile DGGM SS has the same yellowing and it's an Oklahoma grandma driven garage queen. Damn you GM and your cheap plastic!!!
You can also replace those Styrofoam inserts in the cup holders for a reasonable price if those are overly molded, I think I payed $10 for both of them, made it look really nice and new
It's crazy that those window switch panels on the doors are yellowed still even though it sat in the barn for most of it's life out of any sun. My brothers 30,000 mile DGGM SS has the same yellowing and it's an Oklahoma grandma driven garage queen. Damn you GM and your cheap plastic!!!
FastEddysDetail
New member
AWESOME FIND!! Congrats man i hope you enjoy it!
turbovation
New member
love those cars!
LICamaro85
New member
About the rust problems forget about media blasting and all that. Get some por-15 and use that. I use that on every project I do and on my GTO its been on some spots for 15 years and NOT one sign of rust coming back anywhere.
With this product you actually want the rust there it gives the por-15 something to bite onto. You just have to use their pre-cleaner it is a acid etching product. When you use the por line make sure you use everything in their product line it is a little expensice compared to rust oleam and things like that but please trust me it does not even compare to anything else I have ever seen/used and that include all the products from eastwood.
When it comes to rust por-15 is the ONLY thing to get. Also look into their other products as I use their entire line of products and swear by everything. Very rarely do you find a company that everything they put out is very high grade and actually works how it is intended but with por-15 it actually does.
"EDIT" This stuff is so strong that I throw it on some old control arms I pulled off that were covered in rust, did not bother cleaning them or anything since they were getting tossed anyway but put some por-15 on it let it cure and you can actually hit it with a hammer and it will not chip off, thats how hard/durable this stuff is.
Just make sure you read the directions carefully VERY CAREFULLY as it is either going to last or no depending on how you apply it.
Thanks,
- LI 85
With this product you actually want the rust there it gives the por-15 something to bite onto. You just have to use their pre-cleaner it is a acid etching product. When you use the por line make sure you use everything in their product line it is a little expensice compared to rust oleam and things like that but please trust me it does not even compare to anything else I have ever seen/used and that include all the products from eastwood.
When it comes to rust por-15 is the ONLY thing to get. Also look into their other products as I use their entire line of products and swear by everything. Very rarely do you find a company that everything they put out is very high grade and actually works how it is intended but with por-15 it actually does.
"EDIT" This stuff is so strong that I throw it on some old control arms I pulled off that were covered in rust, did not bother cleaning them or anything since they were getting tossed anyway but put some por-15 on it let it cure and you can actually hit it with a hammer and it will not chip off, thats how hard/durable this stuff is.
Just make sure you read the directions carefully VERY CAREFULLY as it is either going to last or no depending on how you apply it.
Thanks,
- LI 85
Accumulator
Well-known member
LICamaro85 said:
That just shows how experiences differ. I used POR15 with good results until I switched to the Eastwood stuff, which *I* prefer (esp. the latest version of Rust Encapsulator).
Find what works for *you*. I keep 'em both on-hand myself.
2k1AmberR/T
New member
Great thread!