A small "how-to" on chip repair/wetsanding + spring cleaning (black G35) (56k = owie)

It's always better to end with the highest grit you have, unless you find you don't need it. It often depends on the paint and how aggressive you want to get when removing the sanding scratches. You can go right from 2000 to 3000.
 
I am brand new to the forum but have been reading advice in here for a while. Picus, this is one of the best threads I have seen here. Thank You.



I have a 04 CLK 500 with Obsidian Metalic Black paint. I have several rock chips in my hood and I am excited to try your method. However people keep tellimg me with metalic black paint it will never match and to just get the hood repainted.



What are you thoughts on attempting it on a car with this paint.



Thanks in advance.
 
jayjs81 said:
I am brand new to the forum but have been reading advice in here for a while. Picus, this is one of the best threads I have seen here. Thank You.



I have a 04 CLK 500 with Obsidian Metalic Black paint. I have several rock chips in my hood and I am excited to try your method. However people keep tellimg me with metalic black paint it will never match and to just get the hood repainted.



What are you thoughts on attempting it on a car with this paint.



Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...



I find metallic black pretty easy to match when done correctly. Silvers and whites can be pretty touch, but as long as the base color is dark I generally find the touchups come out really well. I might update this thread with some more tips soon, thanks for bumping it.
 
This is a friggin great post... I wish I had found this earlier. Really nice work on the repair!

Picus please check your PM as I have asked you a few questions on a repair that I want to do on my G35. Figured it would be easier that way!
 
Picus, you say that a layer of clearcoat is for helping the paint match, and not for protection. But if you were to ever do swirl removal on the area you repaired, wouldn't a clearcoat make it easier?
 
I would guess when you no longer see your scratch or blemish after checking every other swipe then its safe to move onto 3000. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
IMO it sometimes pays to go to the milder paper *before* the problem is completely solved. Note that the 3k will do some cutting and so will the more aggressive post-wetsanding compounding/polishing steps.



This is the opposite of my advice to *not* switch to mild polishes until the more aggressive compound/polish has basically done all the correction. With wetsanding there's still more abrasion down the road, and it's likely to be aggressive enough to do a little more correction of the sanding marks.
 
Picus,



I don't mean to put you down in anyway and your attempt is good.

However, this method is wrong on too many levels; starting with

aerosol products from Pepboys and the like. I'm speaking of the

bumper repair and not the chip repair (which is excellent BTW).



Come join Autobody101.com. We've discussed this "type" of repair many times.

In a nutshell, because of poor products and NO durability, it's not worth

the time.
 
I wrote this article three years ago in an attempt to help people effect minimal repairs with "novice" equipment. I was asked to include the bumper repair because I posted it in a c&b, so I just instructed them in the way I did it. It was done on a car being prep'd for sale, it was not meant to be body shop level. Thanks for the input, though.
 
Picus said:
I find metallic black pretty easy to match when done correctly. Silvers and whites can be pretty touch, but as long as the base color is dark I generally find the touchups come out really well..
Click to expand...



Eh..I must be a total klutz :o I couldn't get the metallic carbon (or whatever it's called) on the DenaliXL to turn out much better than I get silver to look (which sure isn't good). ebpcivicsi thought one of 'em turned out pretty well, but I think he was being rather generous....some of the others still bug me nearly two years later.
 
I find gluing a piece of sandpaper to a pencil eraser works well to erase the paint blobs used to fill rock chips. Dip it in water before you sand and just sand the paint flush. A couple passes with some UC and the DA and the chip disappears.
 
First off, thanks for the amazing write-up! I'd be lost without it.

A weed whacker kicked up a rock and chipped my paint, and so far I've filled in a couple blobs and they have sat a couple days. I just decided to pick up some clear, so I'll pick up some generic Duplicolor clear from the auto store today, apply, and let sit for 24 hrs before I begin the wetsanding.



Anyway, question is...

After everything is done, you apply your choice of sealant or wax.

Any issues with this? I know we're dealing with small areas here, but as you may have heard, some people are advised to hold off protecting their car after they've had paint work done; know what I mean?



Obviously I do want to apply my sealant ASAP, because waiting weeks or months isn't a fun option :rolleyes:. Thanks!
 
MichaelSpoots- Welcome to Autopia!



I think most people will say that since the repaired area is so small it won't matter if you LSP it. The primary concern is that the touchup paint won't attain its max potential hardness, and for a little chip/etc., well, who cares?



That said, I try to wait as long as I can ;)
 
Thanks Accumulator!

Once I've polished the surface (hopefully) to perfection, I'll wait a few days before LSP'ing the area. No harm done either way I guess :).
 
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