A Ceramic Coating Experiment - Observations with Videos & Photos included

The Guz

The Guz

Mike
This write up is to capture my observations and the behavior of various coatings. This is not a scientific test but rather an experiment based on my curiosity of what happens to a coating during it’s “curing window.” I did this because I had a couple coatings starting to crystallize within the bottle. I also had some left over product that would be enough for this experiment. So why not put them to use instead of throwing them out and learn things.
This is not to prove whether a coating is good or bad but rather what happens to them if they are left exposed to the air. By doing so it brings up some questions such as

How long would it take the coating to harden/crystallize?

Would the coating even harden?

How much coating remains once the carrier solvents evaporate?

Again this experiment has its flaws. One flaw is that a thin layer is applied to paint so the curing window would in theory occur faster with the carrier solvents evaporating quicker.

So I started off by reusing some bottle caps from products that I have used up. I tend to save the bottle caps for some odd reason so I put them to use. Each cap was filled with product and let to sit. From here it was just a matter of observing what occurs over days. I plan to leave them for a week (7 days). If a coating hardens before that time frame then I am calling it done. Although coatings continue to harden longer than the 7 day curing window.

Day 1 consisted of me pouring product into the bottle cap.

Coatings to be observed

Gtechniq Exo V3

Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light

CarPro Cquartz UK 3.0

CarPro Cquartz TiO2 (aka Classic)

CarPro Cquartz UK 2.0

Gyeon Mohs

Gyeon CanCoat

Gyeon Rim

Gyeon Trim

CarPro DLUX

Update 1 observations:

CarPro DLUX had begun the curing process. Within 30 mins it had started to turn into a gel format. Gyeon Trim was starting as well. It had started to turn into a gel but was more wet than DLUX. Right behind these was Gyeon Rim.

The other coatings had stayed in liquid form.

Video showcasing the products being poured into containers. Nothing exciting in this particular video.

 
Udate 2 observations:

It has roughly been 24 hours at this point.

Gtechniq Exo V3 – Started to form a film on the top layer

v984U6a.jpg


Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light – cloudy appearance with a thin layer of film in certain areas.

VcK4EJ8.jpg


CarPro Cquartz UK 3.0 – Had begun to turn into a hard gel. Tacky feeling to the surface.

EHxl2rR.jpg


CarPro Cquartz TiO2 (aka Classic) – Had formed a flexible glass like film on the top layer.

iuZGTLS.jpg


CarPro Cquartz UK 2.0 – Had begun to turn into a gel and tacky feeling. Similar to CQUK 3.0.

LYxEo68.jpg


Gyeon Mohs – Had formed a slight film on the top surface. Similar to Exo V3.

m0k1tcp.jpg


Gyeon CanCoat – Started to turn into a gel. Rubber type feel.

iQcLksC.jpg


Gyeon Rim – Had started to turn to quartz.

Y8vAZDf.jpg


Gyeon Trim – Had started to turn to quartz.

lQco4H8.jpg


CarPro DLUX – Had started to turn to quartz.

rbqgbTA.jpg



Day 2 Video

 
Cool experiment Guz!

One thing that I think will be interesting to see. Is if it`s a difference to the clarity between them. If you are able to get the little puck of coating out of the caps. And also if you could save them after the 7 days test. Then get your thoughts if it`s have cured even harder after a month. To see if it hardens even more after a month or so.

Thanks for shareing your experiment with us Guz! And will be fun to follow :)

/Tony
 
SWETM said:
Cool experiment Guz!

One thing that I think will be interesting to see. Is if it`s a difference to the clarity between them. If you are able to get the little puck of coating out of the caps. And also if you could save them after the 7 days test. Then get your thoughts if it`s have cured even harder after a month. To see if it hardens even more after a month or so.

Thanks for shareing your experiment with us Guz! And will be fun to follow :)

/Tony
Click to expand...

You are ahead of me as I am a day behind getting my video up.
 
Update 3 Observations:

It has been roughly 36 hours at this point.

I did remove the disk from some of them that appeared to be ready. Although not easy as the ridges within the bottle cap make it a bit difficult to get it out in one piece. The areas that either have thicker coating or had air pockets trapped give the appearance of being cloudy. Sort of how a high spot looks on paint.

Gtechniq Exo V3 – Still crystallizing.

Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light – No change from day 2.

CarPro Cquartz TiO2 (aka Classic) – Bottom layer is still a bit wet but the top layer has hardened more since day 2.

Gyeon Mohs – Not much change since day 2.

Gyeon CanCoat – Has hardened more since day 2. Still a bit wet on the bottom layer. Still feels a bit soft.

CarPro Cquartz UK 3.0 – Quartz material removed. Still tacky feeling but has hardened. Will set aside until the last day to get an idea of how it feels after 7 days.

3UFnmdu.jpg


CarPro Cquartz UK 2.0 – Similar behavior to CQUK 3.0. Will set aside until the last day to get an idea of how it feels after 7 days.

Aqo28w1.jpg


Gyeon Rim – Quartz material removed from container. Will set aside until the last day to get an idea of how it feels after 7 days.

fS08lyS.jpg


Gyeon Trim – Quartz material removed from container. Will set aside until the last day to get an idea of how it feels after 7 days.

L3vHfPl.jpg


CarPro DLUX – Quartz material removed from container. Will set aside until the last day to get an idea of how it feels after 7 days.

a7piFSq.jpg


Video Day 3

 
Interesting experiment. Thanks for documenting and sharing. Any information on coatings is helpful and educational.

I’ve been thinking about coatings a lot lately, probably too much and I think pure hardness in a coating may be overrated. There needs to be some flexibility to combat shrinkage and brittleness. A two part coating with a softer base and a harder topcoat may be the best way to go. I’m assuming some of the newer self healing coatings fall into a two part category. I would love to have a conversation with a chemical engineer involved in coating development.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
Interesting experiment. Thanks for documenting and sharing. Any information on coatings is helpful and educational.

I’ve been thinking about coatings a lot lately, probably too much and I think pure hardness in a coating may be overrated. There needs to be some flexibility to combat shrinkage and brittleness. A two part coating with a softer base and a harder topcoat may be the best way to go. I’m assuming some of the newer self healing coatings fall into a two part category. I would love to have a conversation with a chemical engineer involved in coating development.
Click to expand...

Mi Amigo !

I hear that Dr. David Ghodoussi, the Owner of Optimum Technologies is sometimes available to talk with..
They are located in Memphis, Tenn..

Optimum Polymer Technologies, Inc.
4130 Senator Street Memphis, TN 38118 USA

Phone : 1-901-363-4955

Email : [email protected]

Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
Mi Amigo !

I hear that Dr. David Ghodoussi, the Owner of Optimum Technologies is sometimes available to talk with..
They are located in Memphis, Tenn..

Optimum Polymer Technologies, Inc.
4130 Senator Street Memphis, TN 38118 USA

Phone : 1-901-363-4955

Email : [email protected]

Dan F
Click to expand...

Thanks Dan, his name came to mind. I wonder how busy he is? Do you know of any recent articles on coating manufacture? Most companies don’t discuss their processes or future plans for fear of copying and much of the industry is outside of the US and in foreign languages. It is difficult to learn much of anything, besides marketing hype, about coatings.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
Thanks Dan, his name came to mind. I wonder how busy he is? Do you know of any recent articles on coating manufacture? Most companies don’t discuss their processes or future plans for fear of copying and much of the industry is outside of the US and in foreign languages. It is difficult to learn much of anything, besides marketing hype, about coatings.
Click to expand...

RL,
Perhaps get on the Optimum Forum and ask around; they will know more for sure..
I would still call and see what happens..
Yes, all the coatings people are mostly in other countries unfortunately...
And yet, here is probably the very FIRST coating manufacturer, and they are located in Memphis... :)
Another place to check is DI - they seemed to have more info on Optimum products for some reason...
All I have heard for years is that he dealt with automotive paint, and is a car guy besides, so that really helps in my opinion..
If I see him next week at SEMA, what do you want me to ask him ?
Dan F
 
Update 4 Observations:

It has been roughly 48 hours at this point.

So I accidentally spilled Mohs from it`s container so it will be sitting out for the remainder of this experiment. I may do another round with possibly the interior leather coatings and toppers (Gliss, Skin).

We are down to a few coatings as the others will sit on the sidelines until the 7th day.
CarPro Cquartz UK 3.0 – Sitting on the sidelines until the final day to determine if it has gotten harder.

CarPro Cquartz TiO2 (aka Classic) – Looks to be close to finally hardening and being able to be pulled out of the container. Forgot to take a photo of it but can be seen in the video.

CarPro Cquartz UK 2.0 – Sitting on the sidelines until the final day to determine if it has gotten harder.

Gyeon Mohs – Spilled container so this one is out. Was not doing much other than retaining that film on the top layer.

Gyeon Rim – Sitting on the sidelines until the final day to determine if it has gotten harder.
Gyeon Trim – Sitting on the sidelines until the final day to determine if it has gotten harder.

CarPro DLUX – Sitting on the sidelines until the final day to determine if it has gotten harder.

Gtechniq Exo V3 – Still crystallizing. Top layer has become firmer but yet flexible.
gmKdfxL.jpg


Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light – No change since day 2. This is odd behavior as I expected CSL to harden. Especially since the coating had started to crystallize within the bottle that was opened a few months ago.
1itoHeZ.jpg


Gyeon CanCoat – Removed from the container. It has hardened but it is soft. It feels like it is packed powdered silica. Was not expecting it to turn white as it goes on clear on paint.

ZpYss04.jpg


Video Day 4

 
Could it be that the film of coatings that is left has developed a seal. So the carrier products can not evaporate when this film has developed. And that`s why it`s not hardens through the cap. Just a thought :)

Agree that the look of CanCoat is interesting to be turning white and almost powder. Wonders if it has to do with the lower Sio2 in it. So it`s not makes the air tight seal. And then cause it to let air in it to form this when it`s poured in a cap.
 
Perhaps this is the reason, that one of the first coating people - Optimum - shipped their coatings in a syringe...
Much easier to keep it air tight..
I personally like the syringe because I can be precise about how much I want on the applicator, and I can measure usage as I go, and when I finish..
I have some really old coating of theirs that is still a clear liquid with no issues, in a syringe..
DanF
 
The Guz said:
I tend to save the bottle caps for some odd reason so I put them to use.
Click to expand...

Guz, that is funny! And I`m glad to know I`m not the only one doing that :)

It`s come in handy a few times. I`ve broken the caps on some bottles and reached for their replacements.
 
Stokdgs said:
I personally like the syringe because I can be precise about how much I want on the applicator, and I can measure usage as I go, and when I finish..
Click to expand...

Dan you could do the same thing with other coatings by taking out the stopper and using a pipette. It actually works well.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
Interesting experiment. Thanks for documenting and sharing. Any information on coatings is helpful and educational.

I’ve been thinking about coatings a lot lately, probably too much and I think pure hardness in a coating may be overrated. There needs to be some flexibility to combat shrinkage and brittleness. A two part coating with a softer base and a harder topcoat may be the best way to go. I’m assuming some of the newer self healing coatings fall into a two part category. I would love to have a conversation with a chemical engineer involved in coating development.
Click to expand...
I wonder if it`s like most hard materials? Take a pice of oak at a 1/4 inch thick, and a piece of oak veneer. Same material very different flexibility. Same with steel, plastic, even glass to an extent. So I`m thinking it`s more about how thick the layer is, and so much how hard the material is.
 
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