9/11 Details - v. Wetsanding my Teg and Poorboys' Maxima & Harley

Yeah names always better, just too confusing to keep in mind PO...... unless you have a chart



Exciting line of polishes that really needs to promote itself. We're already familar with FP, PG, IP, now we all need to know about and be able to get the "PO family" easily
 
:lol





Thanks for clearing it up Dino.



I am VERY impressed with the Ceramiclear polish (PO85RD). It cut up my light marring and left a vibrant, high gloss shine.



You really have to see it to believe it.
 
clearing what up? I'm still confused. This code has been referenced in previous posts. -

http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34819&highlight=PO85RD



Posted by jgv -

"I have.



Some I use for almost a year now.



FP II (PO85RD) is FMJ (PO85U) with abrasives.



The complete line of products works wonderful, Scottwax and Anthony Orosco got FMJ first than everybody else. They can give their testimony.



I didn't answered before cause I thought you didn't care for my opinion



"



According to CMA this polish technology was shelved and not made available to body shops or detailers? Does it have a name?
 
A quick note:



FPII or Final Polish II that CMA markets is NOT PO85RD. It is "Micro Polish" or PO85MC.



PO85RD has no protection value and removes 3,000 grit sanding marks. It's made, along with PO106 exclusively for Ceramiclear type finishes that Mercedes Benz uses.



Menzerna DOES NOT make FMJ. They entered into a license agreement with a USA mfg that makes this "FMJ" sealant. It is NOT PO85U, which removes 2,500 grit sanding marks and is only for fresh OEM-Coatings or fresh repair coatings.



How do I know? I'm looking at my Menzerna catalog.



Sorry no catch-names for the polishes. They use formulation names.



Like: PO S34A= Power Gloss

PO 91E = Intensive Polish

PO 85MC= Micro Polish or "FPII"

PO 87MF = Final Polish

Then you get into special items for Ceramiclear, glazes. No names!



Regards,

Deanski
 
If its only for curing paint, would you use it instead of Micro on cured paint as a personal preference if you feel it provides greater gloss? Or what other advantage does it offer if this product to us if it's only effective while curing?



I get excited about new menzerna stuff, i'm a big fan of all their products!



I like catch-names :nixweiss



Thanks for clarifiying.
 
L33



Yes you can use it even on cured paint. It does give a very high gloss, but it takes a bit of getting used to. Once applied correctly with a rotary, you cannot get a finer finish than Menzerna.



The newer pads from Lake which use foam closer to Europe uses is the key. Dwayne has these pads as well as CMA.



Each polish has it's use and with practice and knowledge, you end up with a mirror finish. Look at GSR's finish after he used PO85RD and you'll see!



Go and play with some IP/FP to get an idea. The FPII is Micro-Polish.



Enjoy



Regards,

Deanski
 
I'm very reluctant to ever attempt to remove the kind of micromarring visible only under 1000 watt halogens with a rotary and Menzerna. I wouldn't even know what speed, etc to start with. It's unfortunate Menzerna's real magic can only be achieved with a rotary. Occasionaly I'll try FP via PC (Cyclo next) but I think most Autopians are far more comfortable with a dual action polisher than a rotary, this is where Menzerna might not be the best choice for them :(
 
Deanski said:
L33



Yes you can use it even on cured paint. It does give a very high gloss, but it takes a bit of getting used to. Once applied correctly with a rotary, you cannot get a finer finish than Menzerna.



The newer pads from Lake which use foam closer to Europe uses is the key. Dwayne has these pads as well as CMA.



Each polish has it's use and with practice and knowledge, you end up with a mirror finish. Look at GSR's finish after he used PO85RD and you'll see!



Go and play with some IP/FP to get an idea. The FPII is Micro-Polish.



Enjoy



Regards,

Deanski
Click to expand...



Deanski,

I've been using Menzerna for a VERY long time now, close to 2 years, in fact it's all i use. I have their entire lineup, from Jeff, except for these ceramilclear polishes, i haven't been to his office in a while. I undestand the difference Menzerna makes and i'm very happy with their products. What i'm trying to understand is the difference between PO85RD and MicroPolish. I know the gloss scale is different, but is it completely noticable. I'm just wondering if this polish is completely different from Micro and is something i can should contact Jeff about to get some samples, or just wait on?



Thanks man!



Bill D,

Don't fear Menzerna and a rotarty. They probably will work better and easier than most products that work better with a PC. They work fairly quickly which i like. Work them to they just about disappear and not dust. The FP isn't really all that abrasive. I've used the Edge pads, LC VC pad, Megs Pads and really can't say one is best.
 
GSRstilez: WOW. The pics are impressive.



Can you describe (a bit more) how you worked each of the sandpapers? Bumper to windshield # of passes, how much pressure, how often did you lube/spray, did you measure paint thickness before, during, after?
 
L33 said:


Bill D,

Don't fear Menzerna and a rotarty. They probably will work better and easier than most products that work better with a PC. They work fairly quickly which i like. Work them to they just about disappear and not dust. The FP isn't really all that abrasive. I've used the Edge pads, LC VC pad, Megs Pads and really can't say one is best.
Click to expand...



Remember Im talking about extremely light marring, it's only a pain to get out by a dual action because Audi paint is so difficult :mad:



How do I go about polishing? I assume for something so light, a rpm in the few hundreds? Like 2 minutes worth of polishing them I'll be done? He he I'm still going to go the safe route and mainly use 1z here and there FP via Cyclo
 
mgm121499 said:
GSRstilez: WOW. The pics are impressive.



Can you describe (a bit more) how you worked each of the sandpapers? Bumper to windshield # of passes, how much pressure, how often did you lube/spray, did you measure paint thickness before, during, after?
Click to expand...



Thanks :)





I do not have a paint thickness gauge, but my paint is only about a year old, so I know it's rather thick. I worked front to back (windshield to bumper), with light/even pressure. I did enough passes to smooth out the surface. Once you have the guts to commit, just pay attention and you will feel out the surface.



Good Luck.
 
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