845 drying time

[efnfast]

Out of curiousity, how long do ~you~ typically let 845 harden?



I used to follow the "directions" and let it sit for 2-3minutes, then removed it, but was always left with hazing on any vehicle I used it on (Except silver, because, well, you can't see crap on it, heh) - however, now I usually let it sit 5-7hrs then remove, and it comes off beautifully.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

5-7 HOURS?? 2-3 minutes is too short IMO, although if you put it on thin you might be ok...I usually do 10-15-20...enough for me to get all the way around the car, relax for a couple of minutes and go find a buff towel, then start buffing where I started applying. Still sounds like you are using way too much if you have to wait that long to buff...IW is easy to go real thin with.

 

[Dsoto87]

Same as setec, I do the car and wait go dress the tires or something than remove.

 

[efnfast]

I do apply thin - after it's been melted, I usually apply 2-3 drops on my pad per panel and work it in really well (3-4passes).



Might it have something to do with humidity and temperatures? I think when I was experimenting with it the first go around, the longest I let it sit on the paint was like 20minutes, and I was still left with hazing.



For some reason I've found best results with sevearl hours, not several minutes, heh.

 

[Dan]

Some people are getting some strange hazing issues with 845 lately, I wonder if there was a bad batch? I too am fine if I apply to the whole car, grab some towels and start wiping off. I can't think of an easier traditional wax.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

I had stocked up on the old non-VOC version, maybe it's different with the new solvent they started using a few years ago.

 

[gdal]

I don't start removing the 845 until I get done waxing the entire vehicle.



I had to wait a little longer (45 minutes total) a couple of days ago when I waxed with 845 early in the morning and the weather was like 55 degrees.

 

[Barry Theal]

I let it sit for about 1/2 hour or so. Usally with wax if it is hazing, you can cure it faster with cold water. I have spring water stock in my fridge in my shop just for this. a good light mist and a wipe and no more streaks! try it you may be impressed!

 

[gdal]

I let it sit for about 1/2 hour or so. Usally with wax if it is hazing, you can cure it faster with cold water. I have spring water stock in my fridge in my shop just for this. a good light mist and a wipe and no more streaks! try it you may be impressed!

Thanks for the advice barry ... so what you are saying is to use the cold water as a quick detailer after removing the wax? or to spray the wax before removing it? I'm sorry for the stupid question.

 

[Hey Moe!]

IMHO, Barry has an idea worth looking at. Every time I use a carnuaba wax, I like the finish better after the first wash, of course with fairly cold water.



I'm going to have to try this.

 

[Alex Boyce]

I let it sit for about 1/2 hour or so. Usally with wax if it is hazing, you can cure it faster with cold water. I have spring water stock in my fridge in my shop just for this. a good light mist and a wipe and no more streaks! try it you may be impressed!

I'm gonna have to respectfully disagree



How do you know it "cures" the wax? I'm sure cold water removes wax residue pretty well, but how do you know it "cures". I sure as hell don't so I'm just wondering if you do.



The only thing that comes to my mind is when manufactures say you should wait 12-24 hours before you apply another layer of protection. Of course water doesn't apply any sort of protection, but during that 12-24 hour the most recent level of protection is still setting up, that's why you should not let dew get on your car right after you put a LSP on the car.



For example... This is pulled off of Autogeeks website regarding Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant: Tech Note: Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 is a water-based, oxygen activated paint sealant. After buffing off the sealant, the remaining coating needs to cure for 12 hours in dry conditions to fully bond to the paint. Exposure to moisture during this time will drown the polymers. For the best results, allow 12 hours of curing time.



I realize that 845 is a "wax" but we all know it has polymers similar to sealants.



So I guess I'll just stick to my traditional ways of waiting for wax to haze, then do the swipe test and remove.

 

[imported_flatstick]

I just used 845 on a mustang yesterday and had not issues at all with it. I do use the pre voc version. it was only on the car for 10 minutes. I did use a pc and a gray pad and worked it in very well. it saved me big time as I was working outside and we had showers off an on quite a bit.

 

[Bullitt]

Never tried using water, but any issues I've ever had with Collinite had to do with the dewpoint and relevant humidity. I've had two black vehicles in here lately and out of coincidence they weren't lsp ready until late at night, also keep in mind I'm in Houston and the first actual cool air came through this morning. It was so humid a few nights ago that I could do a swipe test after 30 minutes and it still wasn't close. Usually 30 minutes is just fine. I use Prepsol on many cars so I find for me it never streaks, even on finicky black paint, but the humidity played a big role, at least at night, I did notice that it cured much faster where I left a halogen burning.lol