Black240SX
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Were you working the polishes until dry? If so, that might have been the problem.
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#80 (Speed Glaze) vs. #82 (Swirl Free Polish)
- Thread starter benpocock
- Start date
SVECobraR said:I just used #85, #83, #82 this weekend, in that sequence, and i coudlve'nt have been more disappointed. The results were great ( but i think it was actually due to the wool pad), but wowww were they hard to remove. I think i caused more scratches by trying to remove it then i removed buffing it.
i can tell you right now youre probably doing something wrong. I wetsanded my TA a couple months back and used nothing but 85,84, 83,82 & 80. i got great results. It does take time to learn how to use those products cause imho they dont work like all other polishes. Its like they have a starting point and a certain stopping point. Not like work until dry. some work until slightly wet and some work til dry and so forth. But just take your time and be patient and youll get the results your looking for ....promise.
I've found with Meguiar's products that it's definitely best to under-work them rather than over-work them. If you buff them too long it's like trying to get glue off your car. To start with you'll be convinced you haven't worked the product long enough, but after four or five passes it's generally ready to come off, at least it is with me.
Ben
Ben
Accumulator
Well-known member
merci said:Sorry to resurrect an old thread but... What do you mean by more idiot-proof?
Some people have had issues with micromarring (or removal problems) when they use #82, but virtually *nobody* has any trouble with #80 unless they work it too long. Meguiar's uses #80 at their detailing clinics because they consider it "bubba-proof" (their term for it, BTW), it's the product they prefer to hand over to novices. Keep in mind that these clinics are about more than just getting the cars nice, they want to leave a good impression regarding Meguiar's products. IMO the fact that #80 is their "you'll like our stuff!" polish says a lot.
With all the stuff #80 leaves behind, even if you don't get all the marring out things'll look good. And it's easy to know when to quit working #80, it starts to turn clear. #82 is more for people with the time/inclination/ability to really "master" the product if they find that necessary.
I did a complete makeover on my car yesterday.
M85/wool/RB
M83/W-8006/RB
W82/W-9006/RB
M21/W-9006/DA
The finish turns out to be crispy clear. Swirl-free. M82 is the right tool for my paintwork and just need a little bit of patience and practice to get it right with rotary buffer.
p.s. M80 will leave some mild swirl marks.
M85/wool/RB
M83/W-8006/RB
W82/W-9006/RB
M21/W-9006/DA
The finish turns out to be crispy clear. Swirl-free. M82 is the right tool for my paintwork and just need a little bit of patience and practice to get it right with rotary buffer.
p.s. M80 will leave some mild swirl marks.
Accumulator
Well-known member
zey said:... M82 is the right tool for my paintwork and just need a little bit of patience and practice to get it right with rotary buffer.
p.s. M80 will leave some mild swirl marks.
It's all about finding the products that work for *you* on *your* paint :xyxthumbs
I've never had any residual micromarring from #80 except on a too-soft fresh repaint, but that's *my* experience and might not coincide with what you're doing.
Accumulator said:Some people have had issues with micromarring (or removal problems) when they use #82, but virtually *nobody* has any trouble with #80 unless they work it too long...#82 is more for people with the time/inclination/ability to really "master" the product if they find that necessary.
I resurrected the thread precisely because of your comment. Thanks for sharing and clarifying. I also asked because I noticed that #82 isn't as readily available online as #80. Now I know why.
The products were hard to work with but then again it was my first time using them, andi was using them with a rotary. I did that combo on the hood and on the rest of the car i did SSR2.5 with wool pad, then DACP (or #83) with light cutting foam pad followed by optimum polish with a polishing pad. All with the rotary. Then i followed it up with Poorboys Pro Polish with Blue Carnuba on a polishing pad and it removed the little holograms i had (i did the optimum at 10:30 at night so i was rushing). And it made the paint real soft and reflective, but i did notice that the rest of the car compared to the hood was hazy. Like it wasn't its true complete black, while the hood was. I took pictures but lost the camera. So i'll post when i find it.