tableturns
New member
I will be doing everything by hand using MFs. My question is this.. After claying I want to use megs #80 to get rid of the swirls then using AIO and after KSG what do you guys think?
#80 Klasse
- Thread starter tableturns
- Start date
imported_flatstick
New member
tableturns, the products you have chosen are very good. my question is how bad are the swirls you are trying to get rid of ? removing swirls by hand is very hard to do and time consuming. the # 80 removes light swirls and has filler oils to hide was is not removed. if the swirls are bad enough you will need to step up to something along the lines of # 83. if I were you I would either invest in a PC or see if you have a friend to borrow one from, it is the best way to get you started on the path of a swirll free car. a rotary is the ultimate for removing defects but there is a large learning curve and unless you have somebody to teach you or have some practice hoods it is not advised to jump into. not trying to say that removing swirls by hand is impossible but as people will chime in I am sure they will say that you need a PC because by hand you are just spinning your wheels so to speak. let us know what your plans are and how you make out.
sQuashed
Lack of oxygen up here
The product choices you have are great but as flatstick said, a PC is needed.
tableturns
New member
flatstick thanks for the response the swirls are not that bad and i have a white car so they are less visible and right i cant afford a PC so the only choice i have is to do everything by hand.
imported_rfinkle21
New member
i just want to mention that #80 is really oily, that if you'd like to use a meguiars product, #80 may be replaced by a less "glazy" product, especially if you are going to use aio afterwards.
As a suggestion, maybe some scratch x, #82 or the otc swirl remover with a cut scale of 2 (i apologize the number escapes me). I say this because they have less oils, less cut and you may have less of a mess going over them with aio, and possibly get better bonding from the sg in the case you still have some oils on the paint if you'd used #80.
i'm sure #80 would work well, but by name "speed glaze", you'll see that the nature of the product is proabably not intended for use before aio.
As a suggestion, maybe some scratch x, #82 or the otc swirl remover with a cut scale of 2 (i apologize the number escapes me). I say this because they have less oils, less cut and you may have less of a mess going over them with aio, and possibly get better bonding from the sg in the case you still have some oils on the paint if you'd used #80.
i'm sure #80 would work well, but by name "speed glaze", you'll see that the nature of the product is proabably not intended for use before aio.
tableturns
New member
well i plan on wetsanding some touchup paint with 2000 grit so ill have no choice but to use #80 to get rid of the sandpaper marks right?
imported_rfinkle21
New member
The only help I can be here is that the oils will "fill" many imperfections, and may not leave a true result of the surface condition. As far as the product used to smooth out wetsanding w/ 2000 grit, I have to say that you would be better served waiting for posts by more experienced people.
imported_flatstick
New member
tableturns said:
That sucks that you can not use a pc, at least the car is white . the only thing that may be an issue is that after using the #80 ( which has fillers) the AIO will remove the fillers that were left behind. guess you can always try a test area with the AIO alone first to see how you will like the results, it does help very minor swirls and gives the finish a nice shine even by hand, I use it for my doorjams among a million other areas, but will take some elbow grease by hand on the whole car. I hate to see you bust your *** and start with the # 80 and be like hey some progress .... only to see AIO remove any oils that are hiding these slight blemishes. hopefully you can put the PC on your X-mas or birthday list and then you will appreciate what it can do and the time and energy you will save. who knows maybe there is an Autopian near you who can help you out and drop by with their pc and pads ( you already have products) if you are in my neck of the woods I would . as far as the wetsanding you will need something more agressive than #80 to remove those marks IMO and by hand it will not be easy. good luck I do not want to sound too negative about doing this by hand, just hate to see people get frustrated and give up on taking proper care of their car. :xyxthumbs
tableturns
New member
so what your saying is that after i use #80 to get rid of the sandpaper marks and then use aio the sandmarks will reappear again? well i can see if i can borrow some money from family since its not that expensive where do you suggest i get some quality pads for the PC?
imported_flatstick
New member
tableturns said:
Sorry you caught me in the middle of posting I had to edit my previous post once I saw you mention wetsanding. I have included links from Autopian PICUS on their recent wetsanding project, check it out, as far as using a PC somebody posted this link below to give you and idea of how to get started and some suggestions on pads. some people prefer to get the PC, backing plate and pads as a kit to start with, I am sure some people will chime in on their views.hope this helps
http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61821&highlight=wetsanding
http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62486
Accumulator
Well-known member
tableturns said:
Unless you have the softest paint in the world the #80 won't even come close to removing 2K scratches. Even if you use the 3K stuff that I like you'll need something much stronger.
When I'm gonna use the Klasse twins, I don't use #80 but rather products that leave a "cleaner" surface behind. I prefer 3M PI-III RC and MG but they've been discontinued.
FWIW, I've used the PI-III RC to remove 2.5K and 3K scratches, but there's a big difference between those and 2K.
tableturns
New member
I was reading DavidB Paint clinic and he makes it look so easy on wetsanding and removing the marks just by applying some polish and wiping it off with a towel. So i guess im just confused but from reading some posts it seems to me that #80 has worked well for some people removing those marks. I dont know if i had mentioned it before but i have a white car so my guess is those marks wont be as visible as they would be on a darker color right?
Accumulator
Well-known member
Not *as* visible, but I'd still use a finer paper and a stronger polish.
tableturns
New member
Someone suggested to me that since i will be doing it by hand to use the 3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover what do you think?
Accumulator
Well-known member
tableturns said:
3M makes a bunch of different products with very similar names so I'm not sure which one you're referring to. If you're looking to buy a current-production 3M product for this application, I'd look into the Perfect-It 3000 Swirl Mark Remover. The important part of that name is the PI-3000 part. They make other SMRs that I'm not too fond of.
Even by hand, I'd try to find the old PI-III (get it? The PI-III line turned into the newer PI-3000 line) products. Both the RC 05933 and the MG 05937 work fine by hand. That's about the only Rubbing Compound that *does*, BTW. And the MG was a great product that some of us were very sorry to see go.