xtremekustomz
New member
It has been wet sanded. To tell how straight panels are you can just run water over it. That is why it is so shiny. It is still wet.
71 Firebird
- Thread starter xtremekustomz
- Start date
It has been wet sanded. To tell how straight panels are you can just run water over it. That is why it is so shiny. It is still wet.
xtremekustomz
New member
Finally got around to spraying the car. It isn`t the best job I`ve done by far but wet sanding and buffing will take care of the issues. I used a clear that I have never used before so there was a little bit of a learning curve so it has some orange peel in places. I laid down 4 coats of clear. If you notice in some of the pictures there aren`t any lights any lower than around 5` which causes a problem seeing what is going on with the lower parts of the doors/fenders/quarters. Between no light, having a full face mask on and the fog from the clear overspray I may as well have been spraying in the dark. I need to plan on a light source on the next job I do there.
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
Looking good so far .. glad a few parts could be painted off the car 
Accumulator
Well-known member
xtremekustomz- Hey, that`s really coming along! Sounds challenging what with the lighting conditions.
I for one like the color
I for one like the color
KMG
New member
Looking good! I have always been a 2nd gen junky and have owned a few of them. This is a dream car of mine, love the Brewster Green.
xtremekustomz
New member
Looks even better in the sun. I didn`t like the color to start with but it has grown on me.
xtremekustomz
New member
xtremekustomz
New member
The clear had die back so I`m color sanding and buffing the whole car.
1200 grit wet on a paint stir stick followed by 1500, 2000 and 3000 on my da sander
Buffing with meguiars m101 and a yellow foam buff & shine pad on my rotary. First time using m101. Cuts pretty good. I like it so far.
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
nice job .
Accumulator
Well-known member
xtremekustomz- Wasn`t that kinda quick for die-back? Eh, good to get it all done now at any rate.
I bet that M101 *is* working out great for that, oughta take care of 3K scratches quick and easy.
I bet that M101 *is* working out great for that, oughta take care of 3K scratches quick and easy.
xtremekustomz
New member
A lot of times die back comes when base hasn`t completely flashed off before applying clear. The solvents cause it to die back and have heavy orange peel. I waited an hour before applying clear. The tech sheets says 20 minutes. I had an issue using another brand clear this paint before. I just figured I rushed it but this paint doesn`t like other clears. After the fact, I was told by the manufacturer of the clear to wait overnight for the base to sit before applying their clear. Oh well..either way it will turn out fine. This will be my last really big job like this other than the truck I already promised to do. These big jobs just take too long and are too hard to do by myself. Not to mention that I will have 200 hours in the job and only getting paid for 116-120. Small jobs pay more.
Accumulator
Well-known member
xtremekustomz- yeah, that *is* a lot of work for one guy.
The die-back on mine always seems to show up quite a bit later...which can be a big PIA once the car`s back in service.
The die-back on mine always seems to show up quite a bit later...which can be a big PIA once the car`s back in service.
xtremekustomz
New member
I`m wondering if we are talking about 2 different things. Do you mean after the car is finished and in the sun for a few days you see the color sanding scratches in it? I`ve found that if you cut fresh paint it is good to let it sit in the sun for a day before compounding. Or are you are talking about sand scratches from body work showing up later down the line? If so that is caused from the paint shrinking. If fine enough sandpaper is used before paint you won`t have those issues. Some paint is more prone to doing that than others but it`s usually because #1 the person doing the work didn`t bridge the filler/bare metal/existing paint with a final glaze coat or #2 they used too coarse of a grit featheredging the paint around the body work or #3 they applied body filler over coarse sanded oem paint.
On another note even though I`m taking it to 3000 it doesn`t mean all the coarser grit scratches are coming out. The paint is still a little soft even after sitting in the sun for a few days so it is taking a little time to get everything cut out. I know it isn`t made for it but M101 works great with a wool pad for cutting out coarser scratches. Follow it up with a foam pad and it looks really nice.
Accumulator
Well-known member
xtremekustomz- My bad...I tend to lump die-back (as with the old-school lacquer on my Jag, where I think they just use too-coarse paper...) together with shrinkage that shows up later in b/c. Almost all the shrinkage I experience is on panels that *don`t* have filler...or at least not much (aluminum Audi panels and plastic bumper covers). It got bad enough to bug me once my guys switched to waterbased paints. Like with the Jag, I *tell* `em to use finer paper for everything but I`m not getting much traction there since the New Owner started telling them how to do things.
And yeah, M101 works well for this, viable alternative for wetsanding in many/?most? cases.
And yeah, M101 works well for this, viable alternative for wetsanding in many/?most? cases.
xtremekustomz
New member
1200 grit on paint stir stick, 1500 dry on da, 2000 wet on da, 3000 wet on da, Buff & Shine wool pad with Meguiars M101 followed by M101 on a yellow Buff & Shine Pad. Final polish will be last before delivery.
xtremekustomz
New member
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
coming out great !
xtremekustomz
New member
