'68 Camaro RS/SS "Viper Red"...

I

imported_killerjg

New member
I was trying to use my PC for SG. Was not real pleased with the results because I would get spots I'd have to go back and remove with a QD (yes I was doing it very sparingly). Thought I'd try it by hand, what a difference. Much better results. Just one problem, can't seem to stop myself! I am truly out of control on this stuff.
 
Hmmm. I've found virtually nothing that works better by hand - except for working out a particular deep scratch where I only want a finger-width of pressure with a harsh compound.



What kind of material were you using? Technique with the orbital is important, more so if you're cleaning than if polishing/waxing.
 
To clarify. I decided to get a PC because I like to keep up all three cars and have been finding it a challenge. I also decided at the same time to try Klasse. Most prefer to apply by hand. Since I just bought my PC I wanted to use it. Worked great for the AIO. Even using very little on a grey velcro pad would cause the SG to have a few spots that would not buff off with the PC.



I used the PC according to CMA's direction. The point of my post was to confirm what many others have discovered, that SG seems to work better by hand. I plan on using my PC for all others.



I did solicit Zaino input using a PC, I want to try that next. Any experiance there?



Thanks
 
I've never used a buffer at all. I see no need for one, other than time, and that is often negated by cleanup and swirl removal. I have brought back some pretty rough paint by hand, usually with Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner/Polish followed by Swirl Free Polish, Hand Polish, then #26 wax.



Technique is pretty important with hand use also (ew, that can be taken so many ways :D ). I use foam hand pads for light polishes and wax, and terry cloth towels folded into 1/8s (and sides changed after each panel) for stronger polishs/cleaners. Just like with a buffer, you have to work the product until nearly clear and dry.



This is a Stealth I brought back by hand. Not too bad, but you can see a difference. Unfortunately, these pics are not hosted, so I will have to use a few posts to attach them.
 
The final results. I used polish on the black trim around the windows as well. Took me about 2 hours or so to work the paint.
 
Zaino should be fine with foam pads and the orbital - but you might waste more material soaking up into the larger pad. (Or if you're like me and put everything on too thick by hand, it might save you some!)
 
Scott, your before and after pics are simply awesome. Great job! Keep up the great work and welcome to this wonderful forum. ( I know its a bit late for that though.) Laters.
 
I agree with carguy that you may use more Zaino than you need using a PC. It takes discipline and practice to get the right amount of product on the paint. By hand, I think, gets you the best feel for that. Once you have that down, going to the machine may make sense - especially as your garage gets fuller! :cool:
 
The garage fillling up is an issue. I did find with SG that I simply appiled it versus using some elbow grease, so it did not require a lot of effort. I would imagine Zaino is similar.



LC
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Don2000g [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Scott, your before and after pics are simply awesome. Great job! Keep up the great work and welcome to this wonderful forum. ( I know its a bit late for that though.) Laters. [/b]</blockquote>
Thanks! I have some pics of a 92 Explorer that looked like pink chalk, instead of the red it was supposed to be-how nice of Ford to not clearcoat the solid paint colors prior to 1995. Anyway, it looked so good when it was done, they decided to keep it instead of sell it. I wish I had a scanner (I usually get a Kodak picture CD, they didn't offer them when I did the Explorer).

I am glad so many of the 94 and older solid colored Explorers are finding their way to the wrecking yards. You would not believe how many of those I have compounded out.


BTW, on the Stealth, I did not use any compounds. The strongest stuff I used was Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner/Polish (Body Shop Pro line).
 
So how much pressure do I use when Cleaning / Polishing by hand...Does the 'Product' do most of the work, or do I need to put some 'Elbow Grease' into it, and how do I know how much...IOW...Is it possible to over-do it ? Seems like when the product is on the vehicle and your rubbing it on, you really cant see whats going on till you finally wipe it all off. (?) Also...Are you using more pressure when applying the product or when buffing it off ?



The only thing I've done so far is apply wax to cars that have been cleaned & waxed on a regular basis, so they were in pretty good shape to begin with. This week I will be giving the 'Full Treatment' to the exterior of a car...Clean / Polish / Wax etc, but its not in too bad of shape to begin with, just some minor scratches, swirls, oxidation etc.



Wish me luck :-)



Thanks in advance.



Chris Mc 3
 
'68 Camaro RS/SS "Viper Red"...

I was scheduled to do this car before Christmas, then the weather went WAY south for 3 months. I like just like nice sunny days!!!

Light polishing & Sealant.

1. Washed with ONR
2. Z18 Claybar
3. 1-step polishing with M205/LC White pad/PC7424XP/KBM
4. Blackfire Wet Diamond
5. Finished with Z8

(To be honest the before & afters don't look that much different! :cornut:)

Very nice car....

Viper Red '68 Camaro (originally an RS, now SS clone)

350/350 GM Crate Motor

Tremac 5-speed

Just a few quick shots...

IMG_4373.jpg


IMG_4374.jpg


IMG_4371.jpg


IMG_4372.jpg
 
Looks great Bill. :clap:

Since you're the only person (I've seen so far) that uses ONR like :out:, have you managed to try out the new formula? :biggrin:
 
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