48 degrees too cold to use PC?

nathansdad04 said:
OK that helps. Next question: Do I have any need for the Pro Polish then?
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Not for the paint this session, next time you polish and need to clean the paint, it will clean it and remove the old LSP's ...I would use it now to clean your glass, headlights and tailights.

nathansdad04 said:
If I can use the SSr1 as a final polish, do I need to then go over the entire car with the Pro Polish when I'm done with the SSR1(as both a swirl remover and final polish) or is this an unnecessary step?
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As stated above ..not this time

nathansdad04 said:
Will I be able to do this detailing with just the 1 white pad and 1 gray pad or am I scr_wed?
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It is possible ...if you find you've used too much and your pads are building up...then use a soft nylon brush and lightly clean the pad

nathansdad04 said:
What I plan to do is use the gray LC pad and SSR1 over the entire car(multiple passes if necessary). Then go over the entire car with the white pad with the SSR1(again) as a final polish. I'll do the marred spots last. I'll use the orange pad(very carefully) with the SSR2(not 2.5) and repolish with the gray and white pads.
Since the marred spots are small (2"high X 2'long area on the front bumper edge) is there a special technique to use on this small area?
Last question: is (1) 16oz bottle of the SSR1 enough to get this project done?
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White pad should be used first and then followed by the grey pad...as Calgary suggested , you work out the worst spots first and then continue.
There are no "special techniques" per say, it's a learning process for each person. Just move slowly and go over each marred area as needed.
 
If I do the worst spots first(using SSr2) THEN do the rest of the car using the SSR1(using the same pad)......will the residual SSR2 that's left in the pad cause problems or will the amount left in the pad be so small that it won't affect the SSR1 polishing?
 
nathansdad04 said:
If I do the worst spots first(using SSr2) THEN do the rest of the car using the SSR1(using the same pad)......will the residual SSR2 that's left in the pad cause problems or will the amount left in the pad be so small that it won't affect the SSR1 polishing?
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Seeing that you only have a couple pads, Use a soft nylon brush after you are done with the SSR2 and remove any embedded product, then you should be fine to go with the SSR1
 
nathansdad04 said:
I'm going to order more pads on Monday. I'm probably gonna order some PB wheel sealant also. Is it safe for clearcoated wheels?
What polish should I use for my wheels(clear coated)? Is there a specialized pad I can use for tight spots on the wheels.
These are the type of wheels I have
Chrome Deep Dish Bullitt Wheel (20x8.5)
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PB's wheel sealant is safe for clear coated wheels. For polishing the wheels, PB's Pro Polish and a shop cloth will do the trick. Remember, a little PP goes a long way, especially on chrome and glass.
 
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