48 degrees too cold to use PC?

N

nathansdad04

New member
My PC is arriving soon. It is supposed to be 48 degrees and sunny when I plan to use my new PC.
Is this warm enough? I don't really have access to a heated garage, so this may be my only chance to polish before the weather gets really cold.
 
I wouldn't think it would be too cold to use, but I think it will take a lot longer for the products to break down or set up.
 
What would you guess is 'a lot longer'? My car is black so I'm assuming it would warm the polish a little being in the sun.
I've got a couple questions also about polishing....

I've got mostly light very light swirls and cobwebbing, do I use SSR1 first to see if it does the trick THEN go to SSR2 if swirls weren't removed with the SSR1?

2' X 2' area at a time?

Which Lake Country pad for each of the PB polishes?
Is Pro Polish a finer polish than the SSR1? If so, should I use the PP immediately after each panel is done or wait til the car is complete then repeat polishing the car with the PP?
 
I couldn't really put a time on it. It all depends on buffing speed, pad, and product.

If you have light swirls and cobwebbing, I would start off with SSR1 and a polishing pad. If that doesn't work, move up to SSR2 with the polishing or light cut pad. You always want to work in a small area at a time(2'x2' is fine). If I were you, I would wait until you are done with the SSR's before I go to PP. It's a lot easier to work with one product at a time.

Pro Polish does not have any abrasives in it, while SSR1 has a light abrasive power.

Hope this helped.
 
Do I start out with a slow speed (2-3) to spread the polish then 5-6 to actually do the polishing?
How much polish do I put on the pad? In the video I saw..they used a quarter sized amount for 2' X 2' area.
How do I know when the polish is completely broken down?
 
Here is a link to a definitive tutorial of polishing. It is from BlkYukon who is a very adept user of the PC and a forum member of this site. It is the process that I now employ and see results everytime. Read learn and practice using the methods described and you will have the shiniest Black vehicle anywhere around. Good Luck!!

Paint Care & Detailing
 
48 is warm for some people :) No problems at all !!!

I would start with the SSR2 if you see webbing and swirls in most lighting..(I probably would have started with SSR2.5) ....use a polishing pad (white for Lake Country) and spread at speed 2-3 , then crank it up to 5-6 and work it until it disappears...don't worry about using too much product to start so you make sure the pad gets primed with the product, you don't want to use a dry pad as it will cause its' own swirls. Each pass you will need less product...
If after a pass or two you see you need to step up, then go to a light cutting pad (orange) and repeat...then follow with SSR1 on a finishing pad (either black or blue) using the same steps. DO NOT use a cutting pad with SSR1 ...it will cause more damage than good, it's a finishing polish ...:2santa
 
I don't see the swirls unless it's bright out and I'm at the right angle. I do have 2 or 3 places that got marred (nose and tail of the car).
Do I use a gray or white Lake country pad for the SSR1?
And an orange pad for the SSR2 and 2.5?

If PP has no abrasives at all, how does it work?
 
I use a white polishing pad for all SSRs (that is with Lake Country, color varies between companies). Because of the abrasives of the cutting pads, I don't want to induce any extra micromarring into the paint so I just don't use one with the SSRs; especially SSR2.5. I think a lot of people make this mistake. They go out with a brand new bottle of SSR2.5 thinking it'll remove all swirls and scratches. They use a cutting pad with the PC and use the improper amount, not the right pressure, don't work it in long enough and the finish is far from being swirl free. User error plain and simple.

Using a polishing pad, a small bead of product around the pad, light pressure, and working the product until it is barely visible will yeild great results, IMO

Don't be afraid if you use SSR1 or 2 and the color doesn't wash out, you now have a pad designated for that product. The pad will be fine :).

As for the PP, it is a chemical cleaner. With a polishing pad it'll clean up and oils or other crud on the paint leaving it perfectlly clean for a sealant or wax to adhere to the paint. Now if you use a cutting pad and a rotory with the PP, it'll get abrasive because of the pads' abrasiveness. So for the cutting ability it is pad dependent. PP will also clean up windows, polish metal, clean the paint, etc. Very versitile IMO.
 
budman3 said:
I use a white polishing pad for all SSRs (that is with Lake Country, color varies between companies). Because of the abrasives of the cutting pads, I don't want to induce any extra micromarring into the paint so I just don't use one with the SSRs; especially SSR2.5. I think a lot of people make this mistake. They go out with a brand new bottle of SSR2.5 thinking it'll remove all swirls and scratches. They use a cutting pad with the PC and use the improper amount, not the right pressure, don't work it in long enough and the finish is far from being swirl free. User error plain and simple.

Using a polishing pad, a small bead of product around the pad, light pressure, and working the product until it is barely visible will yeild great results, IMO

Don't be afraid if you use SSR1 or 2 and the color doesn't wash out, you now have a pad designated for that product. The pad will be fine :).

As for the PP, it is a chemical cleaner. With a polishing pad it'll clean up and oils or other crud on the paint leaving it perfectlly clean for a sealant or wax to adhere to the paint. Now if you use a cutting pad and a rotory with the PP, it'll get abrasive because of the pads' abrasiveness. So for the cutting ability it is pad dependent. PP will also clean up windows, polish metal, clean the paint, etc. Very versitile IMO.
Click to expand...
I agree with everything said above...also remember that swirls don't always disappear on your first pass, sometimes it takes a few passes or more ;)
 
Would letting the Container of polish sit in hot water for 10 or 15 minutes before using it help at all? It's around 42 deg around Vancouver, BC lately and will get colder!
 
I've got 1 white pad coming and 1 gray pad also. Can I use the gray pad also? Unfortunately, it would take another week to get more pads.
What was meant by needing more 'passes' to get the swirls out? Do you mean I might need to do the same 2' X 2' area again using the same polish?
It may seem like a dumb question, but will the sunlight be enough light for me to see that I've removed the swirls? Or should I hold a strong light over each panel to make sure the swirls are gone?
 
sillywilly88 said:
Would letting the Container of polish sit in hot water for 10 or 15 minutes before using it help at all? It's around 42 deg around Vancouver, BC lately and will get colder!
Click to expand...
not really because the finish of the car would still be cold ...I'm also not sure what it would do to the polish :confused:
 
nathansdad04 said:
I've got 1 white pad coming and 1 gray pad also. Can I use the gray pad also? Unfortunately, it would take another week to get more pads.
What was meant by needing more 'passes' to get the swirls out? Do you mean I might need to do the same 2' X 2' area again using the same polish?
It may seem like a dumb question, but will the sunlight be enough light for me to see that I've removed the swirls? Or should I hold a strong light over each panel to make sure the swirls are gone?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what the grey pad is but I will go and check it out ...

Yes going over the same area is what is meant by more passes..

I particularly prefer to use sunlight...many people get 5000 watts of halogens and look for swirls..personally I believe that no one exept yourself would benefit from getting that intense as everyone else will only see your car outdoors in the sunlight:cool:
 
Poorboy said:
not really because the finish of the car would still be cold ...I'm also not sure what it would do to the polish :confused:
Click to expand...

That's too bad. I'm trying to be creative though so how about if I directed the warmth from a 1200 Watt hair dryer towards the car from about a foot away, one section at a time before I work on it. :confused:
 
These are the Wolfgang LC pads I got....

Porter cable 7424 6.5 inch polishing buffing pads

So am I correct in thinking that I shouldn't be using the orange pads at all then? (except for a couple severe marring spots I have).

What would be the lowest outside temp I could safely polish? The weather in NY changes hourly so I don't want to be wasting my time if it's too cold to use my PC.
 
sillywilly88 said:
That's too bad. I'm trying to be creative though so how about if I directed the warmth from a 1200 Watt hair dryer towards the car from about a foot away, one section at a time before I work on it. :confused:
Click to expand...

That would be an interesting site to see..and it may be possible...I would suggest doing it on a sunny day and letting the sun help in the warming process :)
 
nathansdad04 said:
These are the Wolfgang LC pads I got....

Porter cable 7424 6.5 inch polishing buffing pads

So am I correct in thinking that I shouldn't be using the orange pads at all then? (except for a couple severe marring spots I have).
Click to expand...

Yes, you are correct...if you can only see them under certain light and angles, your swirls are very light ..the grey is a finishing pad and can be used with the SSR1 as a final polish

nathansdad04 said:
What would be the lowest outside temp I could safely polish? The weather in NY changes hourly so I don't want to be wasting my time if it's too cold to use my PC.
Click to expand...

It's possible above freezing (30's) but I wouldn't go below 40 as it may become more difficult to get the amount of heat and friction needed to break down the polishes correctly :) Also doing it in the direct sun this time of year will also help...
 
OK that helps. Next question: Do I have any need for the Pro Polish then? If I can use the SSr1 as a final polish, do I need to then go over the entire car with the Pro Polish when I'm done with the SSR1(as both a swirl remover and final polish) or is this an unnecessary step?
Will I be able to do this detailing with just the 1 white pad and 1 gray pad or am I scr_wed?
What I plan to do is use the gray LC pad and SSR1 over the entire car(multiple passes if necessary). Then go over the entire car with the white pad with the SSR1(again) as a final polish. I'll do the marred spots last. I'll use the orange pad(very carefully) with the SSR2(not 2.5) and repolish with the gray and white pads.
Since the marred spots are small (2"high X 2'long area on the front bumper edge) is there a special technique to use on this small area?
Last question: is (1) 16oz bottle of the SSR1 enough to get this project done?
 
nathansdad04 said:
OK that helps. Next question: Do I have any need for the Pro Polish then? If I can use the SSr1 as a final polish, do I need to then go over the entire car with the Pro Polish when I'm done with the SSR1(as both a swirl remover and final polish) or is this an unnecessary step?
Will I be able to do this detailing with just the 1 white pad and 1 gray pad or am I scr_wed?
What I plan to do is use the gray LC pad and SSR1 over the entire car(multiple passes if necessary). Then go over the entire car with the white pad with the SSR1(again) as a final polish. I'll do the marred spots last. I'll use the orange pad(very carefully) with the SSR2(not 2.5) and repolish with the gray and white pads.
Since the marred spots are small (2"high X 2'long area on the front bumper edge) is there a special technique to use on this small area?
Last question: is (1) 16oz bottle of the SSR1 enough to get this project done?
Click to expand...

i can awser the last one.. yes 16 oz bottle will be more then enough, well it should be. I have a bottle of it and have done a couple cars and there is still a little left in the bottle.

Out of personal experince I would do the bad spots first, get them done with so you can fo even job at the end. This has worked for me and might be diffret for you.. just my 2 cents

-mike
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top