3m rocks in a bottle (super duty rubbing compound)

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efnfast

New member
Does anybody know how 3m's rocks-in-a-bottle compares with other heavy hitters, like 105 or powergloss?



I was having a ***** of a time removing some 2000 gritt scratches in my gelcoat, until I took out my rocks-in-a-bottle and a yellow pad (didn't have any wool onhand). It marred up the surface quite badly, easy to remove with an application of powerfinish and a white pad, but it did remove all the sanding scratches after only 2 or 3passes.
 
oh yea, and this is the first detailing polish I've seen that says 'may cause cancer' on the back :nervous2:
 
SuperDuty is just as its named, SuperDuty. I find that it is the strongest of all the compounds I have ever used(3m Extra Cut, M105, and M85.) It levels paint and does it really fast. It also leaves a significant amount of marring behind compared to other compounds. I dont use it on paint anymore and dont advise anyone to really do so. The only two uses it has for me is badly oxidized gel coat and metal polishing.
 
lasthope05 said:
It also leaves a significant amount of marring behind compared to other compounds..
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Can vouch for that - it left A LOT of marring and haizng behind. However, on the positive side, that was easily removed with a white pad and some powerfinish on my 3401.
 
When M105 won't cut it, I just step up a little, to the 3M Extra Cut. Heh heh, I dunno how much harsher than that I'd like to go; the Extra Cut doesn't finish out all that badly but it still does some pretty serious work.
 
Extra Duty is a heavy "leveler" but causes such deep marring (via rotary/cutting wool) that I avoid it at all costs. If I were you I'd just by some 3M Trizact 1500 grit disks Shop 3M: 3M Trizact Hookit Clear Coat Sanding Disc, 02094, P1500, 3 in and follow refining with 3000 grit Trizact Shop 3M: 3M Trizact Hookit Foam Discs, 02085, 6 in, P3000

Use an Interface Pad Shop 3M: Interface Pads with the 1500 and sand down the area via PC on speed 3. The interface will reduce the cut of the 1500 and "soften" up the feel of your PC. Ultimately your final finish will be cleaner, clearer and all around better than if you buffed.
 
I don't know about the 3M causing cancer but that stuff def. causes headaches. I don't know what is in it but that stuff is strong. I had a competition once with a body shop guy on who could polish better. He broke out the 3M compound and the 3M glaze. I brought M105 and Menz IP.



I got a headache just being next to the guy when he was using the stuff. In the end I won and my side looked better. But I was amazed on how much CC that stuff took off. I had to wetsand the area where the tape was. His side was noticeable lower than my side.
 
fergnation said:
I don't know about the 3M causing cancer but that stuff def. causes headaches. I don't know what is in it but that stuff is strong. I had a competition once with a body shop guy on who could polish better. He broke out the 3M compound and the 3M glaze. I brought M105 and Menz IP.



I got a headache just being next to the guy when he was using the stuff. In the end I won and my side looked better. But I was amazed on how much CC that stuff took off. I had to wetsand the area where the tape was. His side was noticeable lower than my side.
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Now that you mention it, yea, that stuff sure smells strong! Like a supercharged lemon almost
 
3M Extra Cut Compound (06060) is an awesome compound and is more aggressive than M105. Ever since M105 came out, EC was my most used compound, but M105 works well on most paints and leaves a great finish, therefore it has taken place of EC in many cases. I think M105 works best on soft/medium clears and EC works better on harder clears.



Extra Cut will require two additional polishing steps in most cases to ensure a perfect finish, but on a serious correction/hammered car, I prefer EC any day of the week. Decent working time, leaves a good finish for a compound, works great with wool or foam, but dusts a bit. I don't use it often as I used to, but can be a lifesaver on those certain jobs where M105 just won't cut it. If I am compounding out wetsanding scratches, I always prefer EC over M105.



Another one of my favorite heavy cut compounds is Mark-V MV-350 which is pretty similar to 3M EC with a bit more working time and similar cut & finishing abilities.
 
RickRack- It just occurred to me that you're using the newer version of the 3M EC, whereas I'm still using up my old PI-III ECRC (pn 05936 IIRC).



Do you have any experience with the PI-III version? Just curious about how they might've changed it....



Like, it it as dusty as the PI-III is?
 
Accumulator said:
RickRack- It just occurred to me that you're using the newer version of the 3M EC, whereas I'm still using up my old PI-III ECRC (pn 05936 IIRC).



Do you have any experience with the PI-III version? Just curious about how they might've changed it....



Like, it it as dusty as the PI-III is?
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I use the newer ECC a lot. As a matter of fact, I wetsanded and compounded a car today (a repaint), and used it for the compounding step with wool. It doesn't dust too terribly bad in my opinion.
 
It works well one boats with shot gel coats, but boy o boy does it swirl like crazy. I hate using it on cars.......what a mess and with a dash of cancer thrown in. Wonder what is in it? I'm guessing asbestos?
 
weekendwarrior- OK, roger that. Maybe they've improved it a bit in that regard. Seems like the whole PI-III range dusts like crazy.



Oh, and heh heh, I still have a lot of that Gray clay, hardly ever need it.



mini1 said:
Wonder what is in it? I'm guessing asbestos?
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Silica based abrasives, which used to be somewhat common. The PI-II RC that's been popular for ages still has that stuff in it too.
 
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