350$ paint job . . .

F

fdizzle

New member
i forgot to post this eairler, but today at my work I had to install a system (audio) into a 1996 dodge intreped. The customer had claimed that the car was just repainted.



Upon walking out to the vehicle i saw the car and wanted to cry . . .



it was a disaster.



I mumbled to my co-worker that it must have cost like 400 or somthing because of what a bumcrap job they did . . .



driving the car to my shop i noticed a peice of paper on the floor . . .



359$ single stage paint, no prep, no sanding, overspray and orange peel.



color . . . . jet black.



my god . . . you people should have seen this . . . . :wall
 
I fell for the MAACO hype years ago when I was young. The paint fell off my door and it was dirty underneath. And somehow the warrenty I bought extra didn't cover that!
 
Well, as we say here, it's all in the prep...and that's what costs the money when you're painting. When I was a kid we used to talk about getting a good paint job at Maaco or Earl Sheib by removing all the trim/emblems, priming and sanding, and doing some masking, before going there (so they were just basically spraying the top coat). I don't think any of us actually ran the experiment...my friend wound up painting his car in the school auto shop with the teacher.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Well, as we say here, it's all in the prep...and that's what costs the money when you're painting. When I was a kid we used to talk about getting a good paint job at Maaco or Earl Sheib by removing all the trim/emblems, priming and sanding, and doing some masking, before going there (so they were just basically spraying the top coat). I don't think any of us actually ran the experiment...my friend wound up painting his car in the school auto shop with the teacher.
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Mike, my first car was a '56 Chevy that a friend and I did the body work on..... well, I say body work..... but it was mostly slapping on Bondo and some rattle can primer. I got up very early on the day I took it to Earl Sheib, went to a 25 cent car wash and wet-sanded it. I gotta say that $39.95 paint job didn't look too bad and held up great until I sold it a year or two later (I moved up to a real nice '57). Like you said, it's all in the prep.
 
My buddy had a 89 camaro back in college. We sanded, primed and removed all the emblems. it came out okay and lasted till he solid it three years later. He also took it back a few times for wetsanding to remove runs, but thre never was a bonding issue. Actually they complimented us on the prep work.



Took a day to sand and prime, then wet sand the primer. not sure if we did it right back then, but we removed the ground effects ect and reassembled it ourselves. On a scale of 1-10 I would say a solid 4, 10 being a 3K job and a 1 being a macco job. It may have been a five at best cause there was orange peel and runs we never really got cleared up, but it did look better than before.
 
Earl Sheib somebody remembers that place geeze yea, peel to the max. in fact a orange looked better. last one i remember was at island ave. in south west philly.
 
Try 8 dollars! That's right, back in 1979, a friend of mine painted his Olds Cutless with 8, dollar a piece spray paint cans. Looked ok, not too shiney though! Color was a kind of calf turd brown.
 
$350 for a complete paint job :shocked



A gallon of high quality clear with hardner costs ~$250 by itself and that's just for the clear!
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Well, as we say here, it's all in the prep...and that's what costs the money when you're painting. When I was a kid we used to talk about getting a good paint job at Maaco or Earl Sheib by removing all the trim/emblems, priming and sanding, and doing some masking, before going there (so they were just basically spraying the top coat). I don't think any of us actually ran the experiment...my friend wound up painting his car in the school auto shop with the teacher.
Click to expand...



I did the experiment on an S-10 Blazer. a few years ago with self prep



It came out almost as good as anywhere else.



Talk to the painter and you can determine how much they really know, that will give you an idea of the end result.
 
Their is a post somewhere that talks about a guy who painted 2 cars with a roller. He did it in 3 coats, sanding between coats , and final sanding and buffing. From the pictures the cars looked good. Many years ago they made a paint that you put on with a power puff.
 
You can do great looking stuff with Rust-o-leum etc. but the durability of a good, activated automotive paint is in an entirely different league - you can't even start to compare. Plus, if you do that to your car and then later want to paint it with a real auto paint, you will have a real job on your hand removing the gummy rust-o-leum. I would not do that to a car I really cared about.



$350 does not buy much, that's for sure. To paint my car (Glasurit from primer to clear) I paid nearly $1600 just for the various paint products (admitedly I went through a lot of clear as I wet-sanded between sets of three coats each to build up a deep finish and did the complete engine compartment, jambs etc.) There is a reason why truly great paint jobs can cost $10K plus.
 
amjf088 said:
You can do great looking stuff with Rust-o-leum etc. but the durability of a good, activated automotive paint is in an entirely different league - you can't even start to compare. Plus, if you do that to your car and then later want to paint it with a real auto paint, you will have a real job on your hand removing the gummy rust-o-leum. I would not do that to a car I really cared about.



$350 does not buy much, that's for sure. To paint my car (Glasurit from primer to clear) I paid nearly $1600 just for the various paint products (admitedly I went through a lot of clear as I wet-sanded between sets of three coats each to build up a deep finish and did the complete engine compartment, jambs etc.) There is a reason why truly great paint jobs can cost $10K plus.
Click to expand...



I totally agree. If you have the money do it the right way. If you don't there is still hope. Just like detailing, painting is 90% prep work. You can buy the best gun and a gallon of DuPonts best and will not do a dang thing for you if the surface isn't prepped right.

Agree???
 
Without a doubt prep is the biggest step of all. The time it takes is incredible. Average quality paint products with excellent prep is infinitely better than top-of-the-line product over poor prep.
 
i just find it so amazing that there is a place that will paint a car for what I charge for most details . . .



breathtaking . . .
 
When you repaint a car, what do you do with the rubber trim? Tape it off?



A while ago, I sent my Prelude to the body shop because it was hit on the side. They ended up painting the whole car. Later on, I noticed that the rubber molding had paint on it...and not just overspray. It looked like the just sprayed over it. Anyway, as you would guess, because the rubber expanded/contracted, the paint started chipping off around those spots.



So how are you supposed to deal with the trim? Tape or Remove/Replace? Depends on how much you want to pay?
 
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