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Everyone's opinion is worth something.If a newbie's opinion is worth anything
Now I know how to get your support:rofl:roflEveryone's opinion is worth something.
Those opinions that agree with mine are worth even more.![]()
The following is from a post I made a long time ago.Seriously though 303 is great stuff but I had no idea that buffing it would make a difference .
If you go to the link in that post, you will find a lot of information about how to use it correctly.CharlesW said:Several references have been made to the various buffing processes used. I thought it might be of some benefit to repost the e-mail I received from 303 when I asked about streaking and running.
From 303:
"Some spray 303 on a cloth and wipe it on and, seeing 303's terrific cosmetics, leave it. Others use the same cloth in wiping a large area and end up not drying, but leaving the treated surface damp with 303. One cannot completely dry a treated area by finishing with a cloth damp with 303. At some point one has
to turn the cloth over to a dry area to finish the drying or go to a
second dry cloth to finish the drying. This is similar to cleaning your glasses, you can't get the job done with a damp cloth, you have to turn it over to a dry area. By the way, 303 A. Protectant will NOT air dry.
These folks leave unabsorbed, un-bonded excess 303 polymer on the surface. This excess polymer after the water evaporates out retains a dampness. Though the treated surface may look great, it has little repellency and dust will stick to it. And when it rains this "washes off" and will streak surfaces below. Typically where 303 receives the most calls about this has to do with tonneau covers.
If the product is applied according to directions, sprayed on and wiped completely dry, it leaves a super repellent finish (to dirt, dust, tree sap, bird droppings) and LASTS LONGER. It will NOT wash off onto other surfaces.
Anyone can easily see this for themselves by treating a piece of vinyl, formica, stainless steel sink, gelcoat fiberglass, the EPDM rubber seals used on car doors and trunks, etc.
FYI, a little extra enthusiasm in the drying/buffing of the treated
surface with a DRY cloth causes the surface to become even more repellent and to last even longer.
Here's a link to more info about the vinyl application, once here click on and read the "blue" brochure. For even more information on vinyl, click on and read Tech Facts Vol. II - Vinyl (same page):
303 Products - World's Leading Automotive Care Products
Tires....tires are more absorbent, application a little different. On
the above link, click on and read: Tech Facts Vol. 1 - Why Are Tires Black?.
At the bottom of this volume, you'll find Tips For Tires, goes into
proper application for treating tires to protectant against warranty sidewall failure, for maximum and longest lasting cosmetic effects."
303 is not a spray on and wipe product. It is supposed to be buffed off for best results.
i have used 303 for years. great product. again,to my dismay, not avaliable in my area. i feel the finish is just right. i use it for the interior.
I do have the Klasse VLRP, but am really only interested in the question about the glossy/shiny look of 303 right now.You can also try Klasse Vinyl, Leather, Rubber & Plastic-Cleaner/Protectant. Now this stuff is matte.
The color highlight is mine.Autogeek web-site said:Cleans and Protects. Sometimes it is better to simplify, especially when you’re on the go. Simply wipe this 100% silicone free product onto one of the recommended surfaces with your Cobra Microfiber Applicator Pad. With one application, you will have cleaned and applied a semi-gloss finish, with a UV filter, onto the surface. There is no greasy residue left and the product will not collect on interior glass. The semi-gloss finish will last 2-3 months