303 Instructions

CharlesW

The Rainmaker
The following is an e-mail I receved from the people at 303 when I asked about the streaking issue that has been discussed lately.

From 303:
"Some spray 303 on a cloth and wipe it on and, seeing 303's terrific cosmetics, leave it. Others use the same cloth in wiping a large area and end up not drying, but leaving the treated surface damp with 303. One cannot completely dry a treated area by finishing with a cloth damp with 303. At some point one has
to turn the cloth over to a dry area to finish the drying or go to a
second dry cloth to finish the drying. This is similar to cleaning your glasses, you can't get the job done with a damp cloth, you have to turn it over to a dry area. By the way, 303 A. Protectant will NOT air dry.

These folks leave unabsorbed, un-bonded excess 303 polymer on the surface. This excess polymer after the water evaporates out retains a dampness. Though the treated surface may look great, it has little repellency and dust will stick to it. And when it rains this "washes off" and will streak surfaces below. Typically where 303 receives the most calls about this has to do with tonneau covers.

If the product is applied according to directions, sprayed on and wiped completely dry, it leaves a super repellent finish (to dirt, dust, tree sap, bird droppings) and LASTS LONGER. It will NOT wash off onto other surfaces.
Anyone can easily see this for themselves by treating a piece of vinyl, formica, stainless steel sink, gelcoat fiberglass, the EPDM rubber seals used on car doors and trunks, etc.

FYI, a little extra enthusiasm in the drying/buffing of the treated
surface with a DRY cloth causes the surface to become even more repellent and to last even longer.

Here's a link to more info about the vinyl application, once here click on and read the "blue" brochure. For even more information on vinyl, click on and read Tech Facts Vol. II - Vinyl (same page):
www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=techfacts

Tires....tires are more absorbent, application a little different. On
the above link, click on and read: Tech Facts Vol. 1 - Why Are Tires Black?.
At the bottom of this volume, you'll find Tips For Tires, goes into
proper application for treating tires to protectant against warranty sidewall failure, for maximum and longest lasting cosmetic effects."

Might make for some interesting reading. :dunno

Charles
 
I've read that tech info on 303's site before but since you've brought it up I'll take a look and read it again. When I treat my dash and interior with 303 I apply it with a foam type pad and buff it dry with a mf. Ive done these two steps immediately one after the other and I've also applied the 303 to all of the surfaces first and then returned to the first area I treated and bufffed dry and move on from there. I saw the same results from both methods.

In the case of tires, I think it says to spray them with the 303 directly, blot the excess and let them sit for some time before moving. This is the procedure I've been following with good results.
 
I use 303 on my plastic bed rail protectors and my tonnaeu cover and like stated above i get the streaks down the bedside. It drives me crazy. So much that I quit using it on these parts. And also to mention I did completely dry it so they cant say I am using it wrong
 
I've buffed the "crap" out of 303 on exterior trim as per those instructions...................... and yes, it works better............ but still runs/wears off rather quickly. However, so do all the other products I've tried. Of course, I guess one can't expect a simple liquid product to be applied to a piece of plastic/vinyl and last forever.............. but a little while would be nice!
 
Bill D said:
Maybe this stuff will work:

That stuff works. <period>

I have a bottle of 303 for a year now (the only one I bought) and it's still full. I have always something better than it, and 1Z tiefen although very similar, does a much better job. :mohawk
 
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