3 day detail.

L

lyonsroar

New member
Hi everyone! This is my first post here, but I've visited quite a few times before, just haven't bothered to join until now. Anyway I'm hoping someone can help me out.



I have a 2000 Volvo S40 (Red) which is my DD and spends it's time outside. A few months ago, I bought the "Klasse Kit" (glaze + All-In-One) from detailcity.com, applied it by hand, and was stunned by the results. It rained after a few days and dried and left perma-waterspots all over. I have managed to remove most of them, but if you look at the car at the right angle it's still pretty bad. Did I do something wrong? Should I try it again?



So anyway, I have a 4 day weekend coming up and I want to do a full exterior detail. I own a few different waxes, none over $20, but I only have Klasse sealant which I am hesitant to use again. I also have a cheap random orbital buffer that does what I need it too (foam pads and lambswool.)



Can anyone suggest a good "layering" technique that I can do over 3 days? I am not opposed to buying new waxes and sealant's within reason.



List of products I already have:

Meguire's NXT 2.0 liquid wax

Zymol Cleaner wax (smells awesome)

Back to Black (for faded side trim)

Forever Black (faded trim again)

Turtle Wax paste

Meguires Gold Class liquid wax

Klasse Sealant Glaze

Klasse All-In-One

Orbital Buffer (foam + lambswool pads)

Metro Guardian Paint Protector

New Finish

Mothers Gold Class liquid cleaner wax (sample bottle)

Mothers Clay Kit





Thanks for the help!

wheels.jpg
 
lyonsroar- Welcome to Autopia!



Removing the waterspots might be as simple as washing the car and then wiping it down with vinegar and/or redoing the Klasse All-In-One. Or maybe you'll need to clay or use something made just for that (there are products made just for the deposits left from this). Hard to say without seeing the problem.



There's always the chance that the waterspotting is actually *etching*, which is a whole 'nother kettle of fish and not easily remedied by any means. Let's hope that's not the case here.



As for layering, I'm a big fan of heavily layered KSG, which I find incredibly resistant to most everything (including waterspots). It's recommended to wait ~24 hours between layers, so a four day weekend should give you ample opportunity to get a few layers on there.



IME there's a pretty dramatic difference between having one/two layers of KSG and having more. I shoot for six; you can always add another after each of a series of regularly scheduled washes.



FWIW, I use the Klasse twins on almost *all* exterior black trim, even many rubber surfaces. I can just about count the times that has *not* worked on one hand.
 
Thanks for the reply!



I've tried vinegar, but I don't think I left it on long enough to do any good. I might try it again.



Does the Klasse kit require any set amount of curing/ drying time before it can get wet? I'm trying to figure out why it water-spotted in the first place.



So your recommended layer steps would be:

1. Wash

2. Vinegar wipe down

3. Rinse

4. Apply All-In-One (by machine? foam pad?)

5. Apply KSG (by machine? foam pad?)

6. Apply NXT wax (?)

7. Apply KSG (?)



Should 6 and 7 be reversed?

I was also thinking, what if I used ScratchX on the whole car? Shouldn't that remove waterspots?



Forgive me my noobishness.
 
lyonsroar said:
Thanks for the reply!



I've tried vinegar, but I don't think I left it on long enough to do any good. I might try it again...
Click to expand...



Yeah, vinegar is pretty weak so it'll need a decent dwell time.

Wonder if *gentle* claying would do it :think:

Does the Klasse kit require any set amount of curing/ drying time before it can get wet? I'm trying to figure out why it water-spotted in the first place.
Click to expand...



Not any long period of time; I've never had a problem with that so I'm not sure what happened.

So your recommended layer steps would be:

1. Wash

2. Vinegar wipe down

3. Rinse

4. Apply All-In-One (by machine? foam pad?)

5. Apply KSG (by machine? foam pad?)

6. Apply NXT wax (?)

7. Apply KSG (?)
Click to expand...



I'd consider claying before the KAIO.



Doing the KAIO by machine *might* be better than doing it by hand, but use a foam pad, not that wool one you mentioned.



Layer as many coats of KSG as you can, roughly 24 hours apart. Or do one after each of a series of regular washes.



*DO NOT* throw NXT into the mix. Stick with the KSG. I'm not opposed to NXT, but this is not the application to use it IMO.



I was also thinking, what if I used ScratchX on the whole car? Shouldn't that remove waterspots?
Click to expand...



Yeah, and that'd generally spruce things up a bit too. Use that with a foam pad too, and do the Scratch-X between the claying and the KAIO.



Forgive me my noobishness.
Click to expand...



Hey, nothing to forgive. Your car already looks great and getting it a littlle better, to where you want it to be, shouldn't be too tough.



That's Fresh said:
you need to lower your car first.
Click to expand...



Heh heh, I no sooner lower a car to where I want it than I discover I have all kinds of trouble due to lack of ground clearance :hmph: My S8 is is *so*much better suspension-wise than my wife's A8, but guess which one I have to take if I'm pulling into/out of most places...
 
Thats Fresh said:
you need to lower your car first. ;)
Click to expand...



LOL. I get that all the time.



I am taking donations for coilovers! :Paypal: to me anyone?







Anyway back on topic:



Revised steps:

1. Wash

2. Vinegar soak

3. Rinse

4. Clay

5. Rinse

6. Apply ScratchX (by machine with foam pad)

7. Wash/ rinse

8. Apply KAIO (by machine with foam pad)

9. Apply KSG (by machine with foam pad) (?)

10. Wait 24 hrs and repeat step 9





Can I top the final coat of KSG with a wax? Could anyone suggest a good wax for late model red cars? Truth be told, I'm not too impressed with the longevity of the NXT.





Thanks for the comments about my ride. Everything with this car is a labor of love. There is very little after-market following for these so nearly everything is custom made ie: $$$. Who would think a Volvo could be sexy?



:thx
 
Accumulator said:


Yeah, vinegar is pretty weak so it'll need a decent dwell time.

Wonder if *gentle* claying would do it :think:





Not any long period of time; I've never had a problem with that so I'm not sure what happened.





I'd consider claying before the KAIO.



Doing the KAIO by machine *might* be better than doing it by hand, but use a foam pad, not that wool one you mentioned.



Layer as many coats of KSG as you can, roughly 24 hours apart. Or do one after each of a series of regular washes.



*DO NOT* throw NXT into the mix. Stick with the KSG. I'm not opposed to NXT, but this is not the application to use it IMO.







Yeah, and that'd generally spruce things up a bit too. Use that with a foam pad too, and do the Scratch-X between the claying and the KAIO.







Hey, nothing to forgive. Your car already looks great and getting it a littlle better, to where you want it to be, shouldn't be too tough.







Heh heh, I no sooner lower a car to where I want it than I discover I have all kinds of trouble due to lack of ground clearance :hmph: My S8 is is *so*much better suspension-wise than my wife's A8, but guess which one I have to take if I'm pulling into/out of most places...
Click to expand...



Revised steps:

1. Wash

2. Vinegar soak

3. Rinse

4. Clay

5. Rinse

6. Apply ScratchX (by machine with foam pad)

7. Wash/ rinse

8. Apply KAIO (by machine with foam pad)

9. Apply KSG (by machine with foam pad) (?)

10. Wait 24 hrs and repeat step 9





Can I top the final coat of KSG with a wax? Could anyone suggest a good wax for late model red cars? Truth be told, I'm not too impressed with the longevity of the NXT.





Thanks for the comments about my ride. Everything with this car is a labor of love. There is very little after-market following for these so nearly everything is custom made ie: $$$. Who would think a Volvo could be sexy?



:thx
 
Revised steps:

1. Wash

2. Vinegar soak

3. Rinse

4. Clay

5. Rinse

6. Apply ScratchX (by machine with foam pad)

7. Wash/ rinse

8. Apply KAIO (by machine with foam pad)

9. Apply KSG (by machine with foam pad) (?)

10. Wait 24 hrs and repeat step 9





Can I top the final coat of KSG with a wax? Could anyone suggest a good wax for late model red cars? Truth be told, I'm not too impressed with the longevity of the NXT.





Thanks for the comments about my ride. Everything with this car is a labor of love. There is very little after-market following for these so nearly everything is custom made ie: $$$. Who would think a Volvo could be sexy?



:thx
 
process should be something like this...



wash with dawn dish soap, or a citrus shampoo like chemical guys wash and clear, or a shampoo with a little degreaser mixed in it

clay the car

polish the car

seal the car

wax the car



water spots will either be removed with the clay process, or the polish process and if they are not, you are going to have to compound them out! (worst case scenario would be having to wetsand, but I doubt it)
 
toyotaguy said:
process should be something like this...



wash with dawn dish soap, or a citrus shampoo like chemical guys wash and clear, or a shampoo with a little degreaser mixed in it

clay the car

polish the car

seal the car

wax the car



water spots will either be removed with the clay process, or the polish process and if they are not, you are going to have to compound them out! (worst case scenario would be having to wetsand, but I doubt it)
Click to expand...



Do you have any recommendations on certain products for those steps?
 
lyonsroar said:
Can I top the final coat of KSG with a wax? Could anyone suggest a good wax for late model red cars?
Click to expand...



I'd *not* top the KSG so you can add more layers later.



If you want to top it anyhow, as OTC waxes go Meguiar's #26 is good on reds IMO, but *so* much of "what wax?" is eye-of-the-beholder stuff that it's hard to say what somebody else will like.



Eh...I simply don't top my sealants any more.
 
I've never applies a paste wax with my buffer before, only liquid.



Any pointers on that?



I'll put as many coats of KSG on as I can do in 3 days and then top it off with a few layers of wax.
 
wash - dawn dish soap

clay - clay magic

compound - megs 105

polish - megs 205

sealant - ksg

pads - uber flat pads in 5.5" in orange, white

pc speed 6 the whole time, except for applying sealant
 
I don't have a porter cable... Haven't been able to pull the trigger and spend $100+ on a buffer yet. Call me a weenie.



I have a cheap *** black-and-decker random orbital buffer. It does what I need it to do...sometimes. :-b
 
lyonsroar said:
Heres a question:



If my pads are red after I start buffing, that means there is NO clear coat correct?
Click to expand...



Correct, unless you're working on one of the relatively uncommon tinted clears.



I've never applies a paste wax with my buffer before, only liquid.



Any pointers on that?
Click to expand...



Either scrunch up the pad to get it in the can or use a tool to transfer the paste wax to the pad. I use a plastic razor blade.



Then try to scrape/squeeze as much excess wax out of the pad as possible.



Use a medium-low speed.



Some paste waxes (e.g. #16) work incredibly well by machine..
 
I've collected all my supplies!

It starts tomorrow as soon as the temp hits 45!



Will post before and after pics!



Thanks for all the advice!!

:heelclick
 
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