#26 Hi-Tech yellow wax good on white?

W

White95Max

New member
When I run out of my current bottle of Gold Class, I am thinking of buying a gallon of Meg's Hi-Tech #26 from their website. I am constantly looking for the BEST products for the BEST results. I prefer to do all work by hand though.

Is the #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax a good wax for a white car? It's so hard to make white paint deeper and wet-looking.
 
#26 darkens paint a bit, so is good on darker cars. I don't know that it would look as good on white. #20 is very good, but doesn't have as much depth. You might try a glaze like Hand Polish under it, or maybe try the new NXT wax when it comes out in Feb.
 
If you are looking for the best, I would really go with a sealant. I have seen some white cars look absolutely oustanding with Zaino and if you do a search for Jngrbrdman, he has a white integra whose paint is stunning. He was using Klasse SG, but now uses Platinum UPP I believe. There aren't too many here who like Gold Class, so do some searches and then make your decision.
 
I've met Jngrbrdman (Anthony). I also have a white explorer, so we are going to do a detail when the weather gets better. Some combo's we talked about were:



AIO - #26

#20 - #26

AIO - S100 or P21S

#20 - S100 or P21S



This is after some prep work with DACP, #9, Clay which way we'll go I'm not sure yet. He also showed me a test about the polymer sealents which was pretty interesting (could save people some money). I posted a topic about "How good can you get a white car detailed" something like that, search for it lots of good pics and info.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I will try a sealant next time I wax.

Which one do you prefer to be under #26...

Klasse SG, AIO, or Meg's #20?

Does #20 have to be applied with an orbital, or can I do it by hand?
 
I have tried several things on my father's '96 LS400. Granted, it is a pearl white, but it is white nonetheless and has the same relatively unrewarding properties. By far, I found the greatest effect from EX over the PwC. I say "greatest" because after 5 coats of EX applied over a week's time, the S100 I layered on top was completely unnoticeable. Essentially this is an echo of everyone else's opinion (use sealants on light colors) but I have not tried the #20 and think that the EX provided the greatest finish compared with #26 alone and s100 alone. In addition, I haven't had the time to revisit the paint on that car and have noticed that the rain cleans it back almost to new again (3.5 months' time).



This is by hand for additional reference.
 
I'm in the same boat as you, as my Maxima is Arctic Pearl White. I have tried Gold Class, #26, and #20 (and others not listed in this thread). Gold Class is so-so. It would suffice for non-Autopians, but we here tend to keep looking for what's better. #26 is a good wax, and it does look good on properly prepped white paint. But as we all know, there is always something better. #20 is easily my favorite on white, by far. It gives my paint a brightness the others just can't match. It also increase the reflectivity, giving a nice shimmering, wet look. I've topped it with #26 with the hopes of finding the elsuive "perfect shine", but honestly don't feel it did anything to increase the looks.

Generally, white is hard to make look good, but #20 does it very well. It won't give depth like can be achieved on dark colors with various sealants/topper combos, but it does make it look stunning for white.

An added benefit to #20 (beyond what GC and #26 do), is that my car stays clean. A good rain, and the car looks clean. Washing the car is a breeze. And using the "sheeting" method, drying is a snap, requiring only one towel. Tar literally washes off with a normal car wash. And bugs are easier to remove from my paint than on my Rain X'd windshield.

Application and removal of #20 is very easy, although it can be hard to tell on white where you have applied it. I've had no staining of trim problems, but I admit that I am careful.

Sorry this is so long, but I have to echo other's opinions that a sealant is great on light colors. #20 is by far the best "wax" or protectant I've used on my white car.

Others may have more informed opinions concerning other manufacturer's products, as I've only tried Meg's #20 as far as sealants go. But with the results I've achieved with it, I don't feel the need right now to try anything else. I can only guess that other sealants would give comparable results, and the choice would come down to personal preference of manufacturers (cost, availability, ease of use, etc...).



Dave
 
Do you just apply the #20 by itself, or do you use the #26 on top of it even though it doesn't appear to have any benefit?
 
I did a white Jetta with Menzerna FP followed by Glanz and I was sort of shocked .. it glistened. Didn't expect that result.
 
I like thinksnow's recommendation, but you can substitute Clearkote's Vanilla Moose in place of PwC if you want.



I used VM and a test version of EX without the carnauba (straight sealant) on a white S-10 Blazer and was really pleased how it made the white paint shimmer. Unfortunately, it was close to sunset on a cloudy day and just too dark to get a decent pic. I'm definitely going to try it again on the next white vehicle I do.
 
Okay don't make NO JOKES but here is my combo for my 1990 Honda Accord [WHITE PAINT] for the last 15 months IT HAS 210805 MILES



HAND WASH

CLAY [THIS PROCESS I USE IVORY LIQUID SOAP EVERY 3 MONTHS]

HANDWASH AGAIN [MEG GOLD CLASS WASH]

HAND POLISH

CLEANER WAX [THE ONE THAT COST $4.95 MAROON BOTTLE]



I get asked all the time what I use and I tell, Then they think I'm lying:rolleyes:
 
i have a 00' accord WHITE, and been using #7 show car glaze, then top with #26, and it looks great. after i met autopia, i trid clay and aio which looks great,and really shine up the car with nice gloss. and i'm waiting for second coat of KSG now.



recommand

clay

aio

whatever you like......
 
White95Max said:
Do you just apply the #20 by itself, or do you use the #26 on top of it even though it doesn't appear to have any benefit?
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I think Dave Holmes and I are saying the same thing, albeit with different products. I'd like to try the 20 sometime but i have a feeling it is in the same class as EX (which I'm very happy with). I'll be so bold as to speak for Dave here--the point of mentioning the #26 and s100 (both carnuba products) is that on most vehicles, these two waxes add an extremely noticeable depth to either naked paint or paint with a sealant. For me, the EX and for Dave, the #20 was so effective on the white that the carnuba could add nothing more, kind of like giving a man of great wealth a shiny new nickel.
 
Ive been using #20 for 2 years now, and I can't remember what it was like without it. All the things that Dave said about how the water sheets off, and tar washing off with soap is true. After about 3 coats, water will bead up for about 6 months and wash just as easy as day 1. I own a white 1995 pontiac bonneville with 155,000 miles on it that I bought from my mother. She had it detailed once back in 1997 and that was it! When I got it all I used was DACP with my versatool, then #20. Real quickie job. Looks great with all things considering. I use #20 with all of my customers cars because I know they will get long lasting proctection, good depth and color, and it is so easy to use with an orbital.
 
White95Max said:
It's so hard to make white paint deeper and wet-looking.
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If so, then a switch of wax won't do much good. I recommend polishing your paint first so that it's near-perfect, and THEN using your current wax. I think the difference will be great on a 9 year old car. Do you have a PC?
 
"When is the #7 show car glaze applied in relation to the #20 and #26" In the order of your question- First #7, then #20, then #26 if you like. I have used: DACP(#83), next Hand Polish(#81)which is similiar to #7-Glaze, but IMO, easier to use, then #20.
 
No I don't have a PC but I am considering one in the spring.

I already prepped my paint before applying my current wax. Of course I will go through the whole prepping process again in the spring before applying the new products.
 
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