2020 Ceramic Coating 1 Year Test

Guz,

Interested as why you dont like to top? Not questioning your expertise as i feel with most you are sacrificing performance to protect your protection.

Just with Overcoat and Cosmic i saw no loss of performance and guessing it would help with durability.

Respect your opinions and just want to know how you came up with this one.

Thanks


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Coatings=crack said:
Guz,

Interested as why you dont like to top? Not questioning your expertise as i feel with most you are sacrificing performance to protect your protection.

Just with Overcoat and Cosmic i saw no loss of performance and guessing it would help with durability.

Respect your opinions and just want to know how you came up with this one.

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

1. A topper does not come close to the performance of a base coating when it comes to all the benefits of a coating. One could say a topper clogs the coating and masks the coatings true performance.

2. Toppers are not required but rather recommended. See my next comment. But I would not invest my time or money on a coating that needed to be topped. That is too much maintenance and not a good coating in my opinion. If a coating is so good and touted to be that great by whatever manufacturer then it can survive on its own with just normal washing.

3. The "maintenance" products are a cash generating business for these various companies. This may come off as a wild theory but back in the day many kept asking can I wax or put this and that over a coating. This was seen and then came the maintenance products. These companies are not blind to come out with something that generates cash flow. Look at how saturated the market has become with silica infused products. Also look at how many people have fallen into the mindset that one must be used or the coating is going to fail prematurely. A coating will eventually fail.

4. We have come full circle by taking the idea of a quick detailer and spray wax for so called maintaining a wax or sealant by putting SiO2 in it and having them used for a coating. Over time these toppers will take over just like a spray wax does when using it over a sealant or wax. So does it help with durability? I would venture to say it gives us the warm and fuzzy feeling knowing that something is put on the surface to give us that impression. Just like the concept of a spray wax.

Now I am not saying not to use one. That is all personal preference. Some people like having that feeling that something was accomplished by touching the paint and having that slick feeling. It takes one back to the days of wax and feeling how silky smooth the paint is. For some it is therapeutic.

I typed this kind of fast so I hope it makes sense. If something else comes to mind I will add it in.


bodidly22 said:
shout out to Scott from Perfection Correction! - https://www.youtube.com/user/shibbeler
Click to expand...

I am sure Scott doesn`t come on the forums.
 
Interesting to see how they react to dew.

75b0f98590542c4ba1a093fadb8e96bd.jpg


40b3ea2e16c301b7b2937247b7bafbe9.jpg
 
Cool pictures of the dew! And it`s showing a real difference between the behavior from them. Will be fun to see the beading and sheeting from them and it`s going to be easy to see the difference between them in the performance and longevity from them too I think. Nice testing Guz!

What`s going on with Gyeon Mohs? Has the dew been sheeting off or is it standing on the paint?

/ Tony
 
Guz:
Would any of the coatings that end up being "tacky" when cured benefit from being cured with an infra-red light rather than ambient-air cured? Most hobbyist do not have such IR lighting for curing. It may become one of those detailing equipment items that goes from nice-to-have to an absolute necessity to get the most out of some coatings. Just asking, since I know NOTHING about coatings.
"Tacky", I assume, is based on your tactile-touch or feel evaluation or are you dragging a "grabby" micro-fiber over the coating and feeling the resistance or drag it produces over the coating?

Your photos of applicators also begs to ask: Are their specific microfiber or foam type applicators to be used for each manufacturer`s coating and are their specific microfiber cloths used for wipe-off with each manufacturer`s coating?? I was going to start a separate thread topic for this very question, but you have used a number of popular coatings in this test that are relevant for this question.

I am hoping BudgetPlan1 will chime in, as his extensive coating topic has taken on a life of its own. See:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-...188411-messing-coatings-final.html?highlight=
 
SWETM said:
Cool pictures of the dew! And it`s showing a real difference between the behavior from them. Will be fun to see the beading and sheeting from them and it`s going to be easy to see the difference between them in the performance and longevity from them too I think. Nice testing Guz!

What`s going on with Gyeon Mohs? Has the dew been sheeting off or is it standing on the paint?

/ Tony
Click to expand...

The surface is rather cold with a little dew that there is no real signs of sheeting from any product. It is not wet enough for the water to start being repelled.

Lonnie said:
Guz:
Would any of the coatings that end up being "tacky" when cured benefit from being cured with an infra-red light rather than ambient-air cured? Most hobbyist do not have such IR lighting for curing. It may become one of those detailing equipment items that goes from nice-to-have to an absolute necessity to get the most out of some coatings. Just asking, since I know NOTHING about coatings.
"Tacky", I assume, is based on your tactile-touch or feel evaluation or are you dragging a "grabby" micro-fiber over the coating and feeling the resistance or drag it produces over the coating?

Your photos of applicators also begs to ask: Are their specific microfiber or foam type applicators to be used for each manufacturer`s coating and are their specific microfiber cloths used for wipe-off with each manufacturer`s coating?? I was going to start a separate thread topic for this very question, but you have used a number of popular coatings in this test that are relevant for this question.

I am hoping BudgetPlan1 will chime in, as his extensive coating topic has taken on a life of its own. See:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-...188411-messing-coatings-final.html?highlight=
Click to expand...

The light will have not effect. The tacky sensation is typical of coatings.

Suede applicators have become the typical applicator for coatings. Some have used microfiber applicators to apply a traditional product but this type of applicator will absorb a little more product. Applicators like the autofiber coating saver applicators are the way to go in my opinion for any type of coating or coating lite. I use suede`s for tests like this because it is cheaper than using an autofiber applicator.

As far as towels, low lap is the way to go with coatings. I tend to use the edgeless 300`s from the rag company. I have also used their pearl towel which works well as the initial wipe towel. Plush towels are not really needed for coatings.
 
The Guz said:
Suede applicators have become the typical applicator for coatings. Some have used microfiber applicators to apply a traditional product but this type of applicator will absorb a little more product. Applicators like the autofiber coating saver applicators are the way to go in my opinion for any type of coating or coating lite. I use suede`s for tests like this because it is cheaper than using an autofiber applicator.

As far as towels, low lap is the way to go with coatings. I tend to use the edgeless 300`s from the rag company. I have also used their pearl towel which works well as the initial wipe towel. Plush towels are not really needed for coatings.
Click to expand...
That pretty well sums it up!
 
We had some light rain overnight. Some areas didn’t have much standing water as it was starting to dry.

Good side by side of Mohs and Syncro

5f7b5fdf26a4ac91efaa7fbf4fc1eaf9.jpg
 
The following photos and video will establish a baseline for the each coating. First wash is from 1/18/2020. Next update with photos and videos will be in 3 months unless a coating starts to have different behavior.


Beading photos. I tried to find the information on the contact angle for each coating.


22ple HPC


22ple_HPC.jpg



22ple Insanity


22ple_Insanity.jpg



Gyeon Mohs 95 degrees

Gyeon_Mohs.jpg



Gyeon Syncro (Mohs + Skin) Skin contact angle 120 degree


Gyeon_Syncro.jpg



Gyeon CanCoat 100 degrees


Gyeon_CanCoat.jpg



Drexler Base Coat


Drexler_Base_Coat.jpg



Drexler Ceramic (Base Coat + Top Coat) 110 degrees


Drexler_Ceramic1.jpg



IGL Quartz+ 110 degrees


IGL_Quartz_.jpg



SPS Graphene 125 degrees


SPS_Graphene.jpg



Cquartz UK 3.0 110 degrees


CQ_UK_3_0.jpg


Cquartz Lite 110 degrees


CQ_Lite.jpg



Jade Ice 100-110 degrees


Jade_Ice.jpg



Jade Quartz 100-110 degrees


Jade_Quartz.jpg



Shine Supply Beadlock 108 degrees


Beadlock.jpg



Cquartz TiO2 110 degrees


CQ_TiO2.jpg



Adams UV Paint Coating


Adams_UV_Paint.jpg



Adams UV Spray Coating


Adams_UV_Spray.jpg



Water beading 7:21
Water sheeting 13:20


 
sick sick sick pictures. Beadlock`s beading looks good. SPS looks amazing, Adam`s coating looks nice. By the time this thread`s 6 months old I`ll be able to afford a new polisher and have my car where it`s ready to be coated. Definitely going to keep my eye out for any beading pictures you post.
 
Great test a lot of planning and hard work appreciate you doing this. This will probably help a lot of folks. Let’s go UK, Adams and Jade for some odd reason I’m routing against IGL
 
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