2018 Ford F-150 Raptor Shadow Black (Questions)

M

moose00015

New member
Hey everyone looking to get some advice. About 10 years or so ago I worked at a detail shop and did paint correction so I have experience with how to do it...it`s just been a long time.

I picked up a porter cable orbital buffer the other day. I still need to grab some pads, polishes, paint cleanser, and then a ceramic coating.

I was planning on Lake Country pads (orange and yellow) along with Meguiars M105 and M205. Do I need to get any other pads? Wool? From what I recall, it was a wool pad and M105 or an orange pad and M105 depending upon how bad the scratches were. From there it was typically yellow and M205. Am I missing any steps or is there another pad and polish that I should follow with as a finish? Looking at my paint, I don`t *think* I`d need a wool pad but....I guess you never know until you know.

For the fender flares and bumpers, the paint is a matte finish. Do I need to change my approach on these? If so, what should I be looking at for those?

After the paint is corrected, I plan to use a paint cleanser (open to suggestions) to remove the residue and then ceramic coat. I seem to recall using P21S Paintwork Cleansing Lotion. Would that be the correct thing to use prior to a ceramic coat?

Which brings me to a few other questions. Is this paint considered to be soft or hard? Are there other polish/pad combinations I should be looking at? Any recommendations on ceramic coatings? What happens if the ceramic coating gets on any trim pieces or non paint surfaces? Best way to avoid that? Any other thoughts or things I should think about?

Thanks in advance for any help you can lend!
 
With Lake Country pads I’d say go orange and white. I haven’t used meguiar’s polishes, but there may be some issues as far as using other brands for panel wipes. Of meguiar’s has one, I’d stick with that before applying a coating. Definitely don’t stray with your most aggressive combo. Go less to more until you get the results you would like.
 
moose00015 said:
Hey everyone looking to get some advice. About 10 years or so ago I worked at a detail shop and did paint correction so I have experience with how to do it...it`s just been a long time.

I picked up a porter cable orbital buffer the other day. I still need to grab some pads, polishes, paint cleanser, and then a ceramic coating.

I was planning on Lake Country pads (orange and yellow) along with Meguiars M105 and M205. Do I need to get any other pads? Wool? From what I recall, it was a wool pad and M105 or an orange pad and M105 depending upon how bad the scratches were. From there it was typically yellow and M205. Am I missing any steps or is there another pad and polish that I should follow with as a finish? Looking at my paint, I don`t *think* I`d need a wool pad but....I guess you never know until you know.

For the fender flares and bumpers, the paint is a matte finish. Do I need to change my approach on these? If so, what should I be looking at for those?

After the paint is corrected, I plan to use a paint cleanser (open to suggestions) to remove the residue and then ceramic coat. I seem to recall using P21S Paintwork Cleansing Lotion. Would that be the correct thing to use prior to a ceramic coat?

Which brings me to a few other questions. Is this paint considered to be soft or hard? Are there other polish/pad combinations I should be looking at? Any recommendations on ceramic coatings? What happens if the ceramic coating gets on any trim pieces or non paint surfaces? Best way to avoid that? Any other thoughts or things I should think about?

Thanks in advance for any help you can lend!
Click to expand...

moose00015 --

What is the condition of the paint today??? This determines what pad and product should be used..

How many years were you correcting paint back then, and what machine/s were you using ?

I have about 20 years using Meguiars 105/205 (and other products) with a Rotary and a Flex XC3401-VRG. The Rotary is much faster..

I only use Lake Country Pads for all that time as well.. The orange pad would be first, and then the white pad to finish polish what the orange did..

And has already been said, and you should know this from working in a Detailing Shop, you use less aggressive first and see if the results are good for you..

The Meguiars 105 is really great but it is the most aggressive, and will remove a lot of clear coat, so you have to stop a lot and see how it is going..

Meguiars 105, in my experiences, will want to dry out quickly so I spray a little pad conditioner (that I sprayed on the pad initially to help prime it) every now and then while I am working it, so it does not dry out and turn to powder... I have been very successful with 105 because I keep it moist, so it works all the way down to almost nothing, and then it is very easy to remove..

I also measure the total thickness of the paint, in microns, so I can see how much I am removing, in microns, and of course, try to take as little as possible off..

Have also had very great results with 205 to finish polish and get the surfaces perfectly clear, flat, and blinding in the sun glossy.. Again, working it and adding a little moisture if it starts to dry out too soon, and pretty soon, its almost gone and wipe off is easy..

For the last clean before coating, I have had great results with CarPro Eraser -- CARPRO Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser 1 Liter

Everything I have done above is with my Makita 9227 Rotary...

Congrats on that beautiful Shadow Black F150 !!! I just recently received my 2022 Ranger Lariat in Shadow Black... Awesome color for sure !! :)

Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
moose00015 --

What is the condition of the paint today??? This determines what pad and product should be used..

How many years were you correcting paint back then, and what machine/s were you using ?

I have about 20 years using Meguiars 105/205 (and other products) with a Rotary and a Flex XC3401-VRG. The Rotary is much faster..

I only use Lake Country Pads for all that time as well.. The orange pad would be first, and then the white pad to finish polish what the orange did..

And has already been said, and you should know this from working in a Detailing Shop, you use less aggressive first and see if the results are good for you..

The Meguiars 105 is really great but it is the most aggressive, and will remove a lot of clear coat, so you have to stop a lot and see how it is going..

Meguiars 105, in my experiences, will want to dry out quickly so I spray a little pad conditioner (that I sprayed on the pad initially to help prime it) every now and then while I am working it, so it does not dry out and turn to powder... I have been very successful with 105 because I keep it moist, so it works all the way down to almost nothing, and then it is very easy to remove..

I also measure the total thickness of the paint, in microns, so I can see how much I am removing, in microns, and of course, try to take as little as possible off..

Have also had very great results with 205 to finish polish and get the surfaces perfectly clear, flat, and blinding in the sun glossy.. Again, working it and adding a little moisture if it starts to dry out too soon, and pretty soon, its almost gone and wipe off is easy..

For the last clean before coating, I have had great results with CarPro Eraser -- CARPRO Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser 1 Liter

Everything I have done above is with my Makita 9227 Rotary...

Congrats on that beautiful Shadow Black F150 !!! I just recently received my 2022 Ranger Lariat in Shadow Black... Awesome color for sure !! :)

Dan F
Click to expand...

I did it for about a year and a half to two years or so if memory serves. I only ever used a Porter Cable orbital. I think I previously bought one and I don`t know where it got off to so I just bought another. I don`t mind going a little slower if it means I don`t have to be as concerned about burning through the paint.

Looking at the paint, my guess is I should be able to likely get it cleaned up with 205. Nothing that I saw looked too deep but it definitely is starting to get swirling going on. I`ll just have to do a test panel and see how it turns out.

I ordered pads (orange, yellow, and white lake country), polish (M105 and M205), the cleaner you recommended and cquartz last night. So if I need to get more aggressive, I have the ability to do so.

Any suggestions for a paint meter? Is that something I really need to invest in at this point?

Now I just have to figure out how to fit the truck in my garage. B)
 
moose00015 said:
I did it for about a year and a half to two years or so if memory serves. I only ever used a Porter Cable orbital. I think I previously bought one and I don`t know where it got off to so I just bought another. I don`t mind going a little slower if it means I don`t have to be as concerned about burning through the paint.

Looking at the paint, my guess is I should be able to likely get it cleaned up with 205. Nothing that I saw looked too deep but it definitely is starting to get swirling going on. I`ll just have to do a test panel and see how it turns out.

I ordered pads (orange, yellow, and white lake country), polish (M105 and M205), the cleaner you recommended and cquartz last night. So if I need to get more aggressive, I have the ability to do so.

Any suggestions for a paint meter? Is that something I really need to invest in at this point?

Now I just have to figure out how to fit the truck in my garage. B)
Click to expand...

moose00015 --
If you only used a Random Orbital = the Porter Cable, you need to get as much Pad Rotation as possible, to paint correct and polish paint...
The highest speed will help give you more pad rotation as you already know..

I always used a lot of pads to paint correct/polish everything.. One of each pad is not ever going to be enough.. You already know this too, from working in a shop..

A good pad cleaner that I have been using forever is Snappy Clean Powder in envelopes -- Snappy Clean Pad Cleaning Powder 3 Pack
This is made by Lake Country, the same people who make the foam pads, and it has never done anything bad to the zillions of pads I have cleaned with it..

A Foam Pad Conditioner I have used for years is from C/Guys, and it`s pretty inexpensive... The one they sell here is this - BLACKFIRE Advanced Pad Conditioner - 32 oz.

If you know the history of the truck and perhaps it has not been paint corrected a lot, then perhaps you don`t need to get a Paint Total Thickness Meter. It is up to you.. I have to use one because I don`t want to chance thinning out the clear coat enough to cause it to fail, and then have to pay for a new paint job..

Yes, I would always start off with the least aggressive product on a more aggressive pad, and see how it looks, and go from there.. If I was using a Random Orbital, i would run it full speed, press down on it, keep the pad and product moist, so they don`t dry out, and work that spot until the product is less and less, and eventually, almost all of it is gone..Then wipe carefully, new, clean, microfiber, and see what it needs next..

It also helps to have some old, white, cotton, towels to wipe off that pad after you used it on that section to see what is coming off the pad, etc... And it helps extend the time that pad will be useful until it gets too much liquid in it and/or too much paint,compound/polish in it, and it is not working good anymore...

Yeah, that F150 probably a 6 ft long bed, would never fit in my garage, and if it did, it would be right up against the wall inside... :)
My new Ranger gets in a little easier..

Make sure you have some long extension cords, etc., to help you get to the top of the cab.. Yes, you can stand inside the bed and get most of it from there, but some cabs are way long and you can`t reach all the way to the front from the back of the cab.. So, perhaps one of those long work platforms might be needed.. They sell them at Home Depot too..

Lighting... You need a lot of light to see black vehicles really well, and if it is on a stand, it is easier to stage it where you want it to be for that part, and then move it around with you..

I have never paint corrected Ford Shadow Black; I doubt it is going to be rock hard; and would guess it is a medium hard paint.. You will know pretty quick if you remember how to paint correct from your previous job..

Ok, you are pretty much set !!!

Good luck !
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
moose00015 --
If you only used a Random Orbital = the Porter Cable, you need to get as much Pad Rotation as possible, to paint correct and polish paint...
The highest speed will help give you more pad rotation as you already know..

I always used a lot of pads to paint correct/polish everything.. One of each pad is not ever going to be enough.. You already know this too, from working in a shop..

A good pad cleaner that I have been using forever is Snappy Clean Powder in envelopes -- Snappy Clean Pad Cleaning Powder 3 Pack
This is made by Lake Country, the same people who make the foam pads, and it has never done anything bad to the zillions of pads I have cleaned with it..

A Foam Pad Conditioner I have used for years is from C/Guys, and it`s pretty inexpensive... The one they sell here is this - BLACKFIRE Advanced Pad Conditioner - 32 oz.

If you know the history of the truck and perhaps it has not been paint corrected a lot, then perhaps you don`t need to get a Paint Total Thickness Meter. It is up to you.. I have to use one because I don`t want to chance thinning out the clear coat enough to cause it to fail, and then have to pay for a new paint job..

Yes, I would always start off with the least aggressive product on a more aggressive pad, and see how it looks, and go from there.. If I was using a Random Orbital, i would run it full speed, press down on it, keep the pad and product moist, so they don`t dry out, and work that spot until the product is less and less, and eventually, almost all of it is gone..Then wipe carefully, new, clean, microfiber, and see what it needs next..

It also helps to have some old, white, cotton, towels to wipe off that pad after you used it on that section to see what is coming off the pad, etc... And it helps extend the time that pad will be useful until it gets too much liquid in it and/or too much paint,compound/polish in it, and it is not working good anymore...

Yeah, that F150 probably a 6 ft long bed, would never fit in my garage, and if it did, it would be right up against the wall inside... :)
My new Ranger gets in a little easier..

Make sure you have some long extension cords, etc., to help you get to the top of the cab.. Yes, you can stand inside the bed and get most of it from there, but some cabs are way long and you can`t reach all the way to the front from the back of the cab.. So, perhaps one of those long work platforms might be needed.. They sell them at Home Depot too..

Lighting... You need a lot of light to see black vehicles really well, and if it is on a stand, it is easier to stage it where you want it to be for that part, and then move it around with you..

I have never paint corrected Ford Shadow Black; I doubt it is going to be rock hard; and would guess it is a medium hard paint.. You will know pretty quick if you remember how to paint correct from your previous job..

Ok, you are pretty much set !!!

Good luck !
Dan F
Click to expand...

I appreciate the advice and help. It`s been a while but I remember most of the process and have been watching some videos on YouTube for some reminders.

I don`t know the history of the truck other than it is a 2018 that was a 1 owner truck and it had 16k on it when I bought it at the beginning of February. Paint looked to be in about the shape it is in when I picked it up.

Look forward to getting around to this in the near future. Gotta get the garage cleaned out first which I`m working on now.
 
moose00015:
Congrats on the new-to-you 2015 Shadow Black Ford F-150 Raptor. I am just wondering WHY you bought this particular vehicle at this time, considering that gasoline prices are now at $4.00 in early March 2022 (or more, if you need premium grade gas to feed your Raptor`s performance thirst!). Still a VERY nice performance-oriented off-roading truck.

What exact manufacturer`s and their product`s name or type of coating did you order?

One thing that I think some have forgotten to mention is that the applicator pad for coating application and the microfiber towel needed for removal can make a huge difference in the final appearance of the coating your will be using. I ASSUME that when you say coating, you mean a TRUE liquid ceramic/graphene coating and not some coating-wanna-be spray-on coating.
For applicators, some TRUE coatings come with their own applicator pad. Most Autopians would HIGHLY suggest Autofiber Saver applicators.
One "problem" that you might run into applying a coating are "high spots". Since I know NOTHING about coatings, here`s a link to my thread question on this very topic:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/waxe...lain-spots-coatings-recognize.html?highlight=

Want more info on coatings? Reference this epic (AKA Long, but a great resource to read) thread on that topic started in 2017 by Autopian All-Star formerly known as BudgetPlan 1, now called 981 Cayman S:
Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

AND, for what it is worth, here`s a show-car wax worthy of consideration for your Shadow Black Raptor. (Note: I do not work for Merlin nor am I compensated for this "endorsement" in any way):
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-detailing/192057-merlins-wax-2.html?highlight=enchanted see post #16

https://www.autopia.org/forums/waxe...chanted-concours-wax.html?highlight=enchanted
 
Lonnie said:
moose00015:
Congrats on the new-to-you 2015 Shadow Black Ford F-150 Raptor. I am just wondering WHY you bought this particular vehicle at this time, considering that gasoline prices are now at $4.00 in early March 2022 (or more, if you need premium grade gas to feed your Raptor`s performance thirst!). Still a VERY nice performance-oriented off-roading truck.

What exact manufacturer`s and their product`s name or type of coating did you order?

One thing that I think some have forgotten to mention is that the applicator pad for coating application and the microfiber towel needed for removal can make a huge difference in the final appearance of the coating your will be using. I ASSUME that when you say coating, you mean a TRUE liquid ceramic/graphene coating and not some coating-wanna-be spray-on coating.
For applicators, some TRUE coatings come with their own applicator pad. Most Autopians would HIGHLY suggest Autofiber Saver applicators.
One "problem" that you might run into applying a coating are "high spots". Since I know NOTHING about coatings, here`s a link to my thread question on this very topic:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/waxe...lain-spots-coatings-recognize.html?highlight=

Want more info on coatings? Reference this epic (AKA Long, but a great resource to read) thread on that topic started in 2017 by Autopian All-Star formerly known as BudgetPlan 1, now called 981 Cayman S:
Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

AND, for what it is worth, here`s a show-car wax worthy of consideration for your Shadow Black Raptor. (Note: I do not work for Merlin nor am I compensated for this "endorsement" in any way):
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-detailing/192057-merlins-wax-2.html?highlight=enchanted see post #16

https://www.autopia.org/forums/waxe...chanted-concours-wax.html?highlight=enchanted
Click to expand...

Hey Lonnie, thanks for the reply.

I`ve wanted a Raptor for years and was finally able to afford one so I decided to do it. We`ll see how the gas affects things.

I purchased 50ml of CQuartz. I`ll take a look at the links you provided.
 
The technology in machines, pads, and compounds/polishes has greatly changed in the last few years.
Due to the fact you have a Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher then I will make a few suggestions...

Let`s start with a backing plate.
For the PC I much prefer a 5" backing plate. I do not like using a 6" pads on a Porter-Cable 7424XP.
IMHO the best 5" BP is Meguiars Soft Buff DBP5 DA Polisher 5 inch Backing Plate.

Next, I would only purchase 5"-5 1/2" pads. I can`t remember the last time I used 6" pads.
(I don`t even know if I own any 6" pads?)

Pads: To start...
For a PC I probably would suggest Meguiars 5 Inch DA Foam Discs 3 Pack. One of each color.

Compounds and Polishes
I haven`t used M105/M205 (although I still like M205) in many years.
Meguiar`s newest entries are
Meguiar`s M110 Ultra Pro Speed Compound
and
Meguiar`s M210 Ultra Pro Finishing Polish
These twins were introduced a couple of years ago and they are a lot friendlier to use and finish better than M105/M205.

If the correction "is not that bad" then I might even suggest Megs Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish to re-learn with.

There are hundreds of pads and compounds/polishes on the market. Each one has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Some are machine type-specific, regular-throw 8mm, Long-throw 21mm, pad size, type, etc., and 100`s of opinions.

For me, every paint is different and every paint "likes" a certain machine, pad, compound/polish combination.
 
Merlin said:
The technology in machines, pads, and compounds/polishes has greatly changed in the last few years.
Due to the fact you have a Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher then I will make a few suggestions...

Let`s start with a backing plate.
For the PC I much prefer a 5" backing plate. I do not like using a 6" pads on a Porter-Cable 7424XP.
IMHO the best 5" BP is Meguiars Soft Buff DBP5 DA Polisher 5 inch Backing Plate.

Next, I would only purchase 5"-5 1/2" pads. I can`t remember the last time I used 6" pads.
(I don`t even know if I own any 6" pads?)

Pads: To start...
For a PC I probably would suggest Meguiars 5 Inch DA Foam Discs 3 Pack. One of each color.

Compounds and Polishes
I haven`t used M105/M205 (although I still like M205) in many years.
Meguiar`s newest entries are
Meguiar`s M110 Ultra Pro Speed Compound
and
Meguiar`s M210 Ultra Pro Finishing Polish
These twins were introduced a couple of years ago and they are a lot friendlier to use and finish better than M105/M205.

If the correction "is not that bad" then I might even suggest Megs Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish to re-learn with.

There are hundreds of pads and compounds/polishes on the market. Each one has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Some are machine type-specific, regular-throw 8mm, Long-throw 21mm, pad size, type, etc., and 100`s of opinions.

For me, every paint is different and every paint "likes" a certain machine, pad, compound/polish combination.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions Merlin.

Just a question about the fender flares and bumper for ceramic coating purposes. It`s my understanding that they are painted, however, they are a matte or flat color. I presume I probably don`t want to hit these with the buffer...having said that, is it ok to hit it with the ceramic coating just after washing or do I need to do some other form of prep?
 
moose00015 said:
Thanks for the suggestions Merlin.

Just a question about the fender flares and bumper for ceramic coating purposes. It`s my understanding that they are painted, however, they are a matte or flat color. I presume I probably don`t want to hit these with the buffer...having said that, is it ok to hit it with the ceramic coating just after washing or do I need to do some other form of prep?
Click to expand...

Can you post a picture?
 
Merlin said:
Can you post a picture?
Click to expand...

Here`s a few. It is dirty...still lives outside. Need to get the other half of the garage cleaned out so I can get both cars in there.

7iQrr4k.jpg


VjNYUFH.jpg


KxGNJby.jpg


C1lymRW.jpg
 
Those look like regular trim and since it is in good condition, I’d recommend Pinnacle Ceramic Trim Restorer, Gyeon Trim, or Solutions Finish Over The Top.
 
Spent the last three days working on this. Still have to ceramic coat the roof and the trim but otherwise...it`s done. I didn`t really take any photos of the process, but here`s what the paint looked like (sort of a 50/50 shot. I can`t remember if that was after a pass with M105 and a yellow pad on the right or not. Looks like it may have been.), polished out, ceramic coated.

DC45C275-A470-48AB-97EE-C2B8C766A60E_jpe-2336878.JPG


3E55124C-3445-4495-A586-3DDBAE816FCA_jpe-2336879.JPG


6DA1EEA1-1261-40AA-A162-71872E5521A5_jpe-2336882.JPG
 
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