2006 Honda Accord Sedan: staro0989
- Thread starter harrybar
- Start date
JasonC8301
New member
Well, is there a Pepboys or AutoZone, or the like near you?
The Mother's clay is good, probably about the size of one of the clay bars from CMA.
For like $20 you get the clay, 16 oz. of their lube, and some cleaner wax. Its a good deal.
The Mother's clay is good, probably about the size of one of the clay bars from CMA.
For like $20 you get the clay, 16 oz. of their lube, and some cleaner wax. Its a good deal.
Preachers Sheets
New member
I wouldn't recommend Meguiars, I used it and I got residue marks on my wing and quater panels. I used more than enough of the quick detail spray but it still happended. I heard Mothers is much much better.
Preachers Sheets
New member
Can't you just buy the clay, it stinks when I have all of these bottles of QD laying around and I need to buy yet another to get a clay bar.
At most local stores you have to buy the kit, you can't just buy the clay bars. It kinda stinks, especially if you are going to use your own QD as the lube. I know you can buy just the clay bars from Zaino, their clay is $16.95. But, you get 2, 4oz bars for that price. Their website is www.zainobros.com
Ron Ketcham
Active member
We had our 6 oz on the site for around $8.95, plus free shipping and a free 4 oz of Finishing Wax included.
That was a super deal, sold some too!
The deal is off now,and we don't make a lubricator, just use the pH7 - 1oz per quart of water.
That was a super deal, sold some too!
The deal is off now,and we don't make a lubricator, just use the pH7 - 1oz per quart of water.
DaGonz
Autopia fire/rescue.
I thought we could all use a laugh....
<strong class='bbc'>Cheap clay bar[/b]....the place where Gumby and Pokey go to have a few cold ones when they don't have too much money!
<strong class='bbc'>Cheap clay bar[/b]....the place where Gumby and Pokey go to have a few cold ones when they don't have too much money! 
Jngrbrdman
New member
lol I like the way your mind works Gonzo. LOL
Will Dunion
New member
After hanging around and reading the threads I finally placed an order for my car care products. I decided to go with with the brothers Klasse (I don't think they are twins), Blitz, Showoff, and 303. Unfortunately I think I missed the memo about not ordering Meguiar's clay bar. Since you all say it's crap, what should I do with it now? Doesn't seem worth the trouble to send it back, should I just chuck it or is there some other use for it?
Cybercowboy
New member
From what I have heard, the Meguiar's clay is a mess to use. Why create an additional headache for yourself? Spend another $15 and get the Mother's clay kit at AutoZone/Pep Boys/whatever. Then, trade the Meguiar's clay to somebody for something - maybe a six-pack of your favorite brew. And tell them that they will know it's working when they see lots of smears!
Ron Ketcham
Active member
After all you rub the clay on the car and then you use a polish or a wax following it's use.
Any of the big bad "smears" are disolved by the product you put on.
Really, this is some kind of weird.
Any of the big bad "smears" are disolved by the product you put on.
Really, this is some kind of weird.
Cybercowboy
New member
Not to beat a very dead and decaying horse...
If one clay bar leaves smears and falls apart quickly while another doesn't...I don't know, maybe I would be inclined to recommend the one that doesn't smear and fall apart.
True that cleaner waxes will remove residue, but I usually go directly to Z1 after claying so I, for one, would have to wash the car again prior to that step. That may be a good idea anyway, but as you and I both know clay traps contaminants. So the smears may have gunk in them, yes?
I am certainly going to wash my new vette after claying, but after claying some other vehicles the darn things were so clean at that point I just went straight to Z1. And they turned out great.
Just passing on my tiny bit o' wisdom, FWIW.
If one clay bar leaves smears and falls apart quickly while another doesn't...I don't know, maybe I would be inclined to recommend the one that doesn't smear and fall apart.
True that cleaner waxes will remove residue, but I usually go directly to Z1 after claying so I, for one, would have to wash the car again prior to that step. That may be a good idea anyway, but as you and I both know clay traps contaminants. So the smears may have gunk in them, yes?
I am certainly going to wash my new vette after claying, but after claying some other vehicles the darn things were so clean at that point I just went straight to Z1. And they turned out great.
Just passing on my tiny bit o' wisdom, FWIW.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
I have been messing with clays in one form or another for automotive use since 1985.
The Mequiar's is not made by them, the reason it appears to fall apart is the lub that is used.
They don't even make their clay, it is bought from the old Zebra Clay people.(as are a few others mentioned here)
Then you got U.S. Chemical, Ashland Chemical (sells it in any color, grade, size the marketing company wants), All-Brite, etc.
Then the Japanese companys, and the patents.
What ever makes one happy, but this fellow might as well use it, it won't hurt his paint anymore than anyother clay. Just will smear a bit sometimes, not always.
Sorry I stuck my nose in.
:down
The Mequiar's is not made by them, the reason it appears to fall apart is the lub that is used.
They don't even make their clay, it is bought from the old Zebra Clay people.(as are a few others mentioned here)
Then you got U.S. Chemical, Ashland Chemical (sells it in any color, grade, size the marketing company wants), All-Brite, etc.
Then the Japanese companys, and the patents.
What ever makes one happy, but this fellow might as well use it, it won't hurt his paint anymore than anyother clay. Just will smear a bit sometimes, not always.
Sorry I stuck my nose in.
:down
Will Dunion
New member
Umm, free clay...any takers? I hear it's good for facials and great for zits. 
Cybercowboy
New member
Don't worry, no harm no foul
You are correct - different lubes affect the claying process. If it is the lube that is messing it up, maybe Scooby could try this:
Mix about a capfull of car shampoo with 12 oz of distilled water in a spray bottle and use that as the lube. This may work better and allow him to spend zero $.
You are correct - different lubes affect the claying process. If it is the lube that is messing it up, maybe Scooby could try this:
Mix about a capfull of car shampoo with 12 oz of distilled water in a spray bottle and use that as the lube. This may work better and allow him to spend zero $.
imported_theamcguy
New member
I like the mothers clay kit. Very easy to use. I also have the 3M perfect it III clay bar. I tried to find the green one that was reccomened to me, but I can only find the blue. For $35 CDN. it's about 2.5 times the size of mothers and you can just use water as lube. Works great!
Hey guys it's me again and this time I have my sisters car which isn't as pampered and cared for as my car and also its 3.5 years old with about 51k miles (this is actually her Christmas present). I'm still getting used to the way things work with my UDM but its coming quite rapidly as I am doing more cars. I did make a couple mistakes going through, such as purchasing and using painters tape that is WAY to wide, should have stuck with the 1" tape but oh well you live and learn. Another mistake that occurred because of using the wider tape is that the paint contrast between the corrected paint and the taped area is drastic and requires polishing. Does anyone have any advice on how to do this in the least complicated way? I also didn't completely correct the trunk and possibly the roof, but it is 100x better than what it was but basically the rest of the vehicle is corrected at least 90-95%, I'll get it next time. I didn't get to do the interior, but will get to it soon along with the engine. So let me know what you guys/gals think.
Wash & Clay
Meg Gold Class Soap
HD Grout sponge
Bug & Tar Safe Scrub Sponge
Cobra Guzzler WW Towel
Meg Smooth Surface Clay
Meg Gold Class Soap and water for clay lube
IPA wipedown
Correction
UDM (First gen)
5.5 in Orange Lake Country CCS pads
5.5 in Black Lake Country Flat pads
M205
IPA wipedown
Protection (used in order as listed)
DG 501 by hand
DG 601 by hand
DG 105 by hand
DG 951 (Aquawax)*
Trim
303 for plastics, rubber, and tires
Mothers Chrome polish
Final pics:
*Will apply tomorrow morning if I have time.
Wash & Clay
Meg Gold Class Soap
HD Grout sponge
Bug & Tar Safe Scrub Sponge
Cobra Guzzler WW Towel
Meg Smooth Surface Clay
Meg Gold Class Soap and water for clay lube
IPA wipedown
Correction
UDM (First gen)
5.5 in Orange Lake Country CCS pads
5.5 in Black Lake Country Flat pads
M205
IPA wipedown
Protection (used in order as listed)
DG 501 by hand
DG 601 by hand
DG 105 by hand
DG 951 (Aquawax)*
Trim
303 for plastics, rubber, and tires
Mothers Chrome polish
Final pics:
*Will apply tomorrow morning if I have time.
imported_BretFraz
New member
Nicely done. It's hard to get white to shine but it looks like you did a good job.
About the taped off areas, you'll need to do them by hand once you remove the tape. That or tape more accurately with narrower tape (3/4") and buff right to edge.
I'd recommend using a more aggressive polish than M205. That polish is like a 4 on a 1-10 scale. You can use M105 with an orange pad with the UDM, then follow up with the M205 on a softer black pad.
All that finish protection is kind of a waste. You need one or two decent LSP's and a detail spray and that's it. DG 501 and 105 are pretty much the same thing, DG 601 is a bonding agent (for what, 101?). Pick either of the 5's products and ditch the rest. Keep the Aquawax. Maybe pick up a good carnauba paste wax if you want another LSP product.
Keep up the good work!
About the taped off areas, you'll need to do them by hand once you remove the tape. That or tape more accurately with narrower tape (3/4") and buff right to edge.
I'd recommend using a more aggressive polish than M205. That polish is like a 4 on a 1-10 scale. You can use M105 with an orange pad with the UDM, then follow up with the M205 on a softer black pad.
All that finish protection is kind of a waste. You need one or two decent LSP's and a detail spray and that's it. DG 501 and 105 are pretty much the same thing, DG 601 is a bonding agent (for what, 101?). Pick either of the 5's products and ditch the rest. Keep the Aquawax. Maybe pick up a good carnauba paste wax if you want another LSP product.
Keep up the good work!