2005 touareg is just crying for help

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needoptic

New member
Hey guys! I have a thread in the click and brag section, but it's mostly pictures of my current car and previous cars... I think it is a little more approapriate for me to ask questions in this forum since the questions are, well, about machine polishing and detailing in general.



I'm somewhat of a newb to detailing.



I'm a virgin to machine polishing.



I'm planning to pick up a porter cable this weekend and go downtown on the VW. :woohoo:

However... I need help. What do I need, besides the porter cable, to do a good job.



I have the wash and the clay bar, but as far as polishing goes I have 0 knowledge about the pads and compounds. I understand the vw clear is very hard, so advice would be greatly appreciated! :)



So what exactly would I need besides the PC? A certain pad, a certain polishing compound, and then what follows after that ? Wax?



Thanks guys!



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Okie dokie, lets start this out by saying. What do you have now? In the way of pads/polishes? Do you plan on mail ordering/internet ordering or using OTC products? If you plan on doing it this weekend and don't have products, I'm assuming OTC?
 
daveb said:
Okie dokie, lets start this out by saying. What do you have now? In the way of pads/polishes? Do you plan on mail ordering/internet ordering or using OTC products? If you plan on doing it this weekend and don't have products, I'm assuming OTC?
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Sorry, should have explained better. I'll be picking up the PC this weekend but I'm open to ordering materials on the internet. :)



With easter this weekend I doubt my family will be psyched about me working on my car. :angry :hairpull



I have no pads or polishes right now. :think: So work will be conducted next weekend. :)
 
I would pick up some of the following:



Optimum Compound

Optimum Polish

Menzerna FPII

Propel pads - Cutting, Polishing and Finishing Pads

Microfiber - Blue Supreme from Exceldetail.com

Waffle Weave drying towel

Fk1 Pink Wax or Poorboys Nattys Blue

FK1 #425

Klasse All In One



If your going to do more than just your paint:

Trim: Poorboys Trim Restore

Wheel Wells: Amor All

Tires: Poorboys Bold N' Bright



Here are the links to where these products can be purchased:

fk1usa.com - exceldetail.com - danase.com - pakshak.com (Menzerna)

It really all is a matter of opinion as to what brand you want to go with. Everyone has their favorites. Hope this helps a little.
 
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In no particular order..



Found using the search function.. plenty of others that came up, just grabbed some from the top of the list in terms of date published.
 
needoptic said:
Thanks, off to read. :o



Ugh, this is stacking up to be a pretty big bill. :lol:
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Ooooh it is only the begining.Once you see the results you can achieve you will be addicted. In the past two months alone I have ordered over $1000 in detailing products and tools. That is on top of the $300 worth of stuff I had before that. Today I stopped by my supply shop to get some 3M MG...went out the door with a $75 reciept. It's a very enjoyable hobby!
 
Joshua312 said:
I would pick up some of the following:



Optimum Compound

Optimum Polish

Menzerna FPII

Propel pads - Cutting, Polishing and Finishing Pads

Microfiber - Blue Supreme from Exceldetail.com

Waffle Weave drying towel

Fk1 Pink Wax or Poorboys Nattys Blue

FK1 #425

Klasse All In One
Click to expand...



I think for this "run" I'm just going to take care of all those swirl marks.

So... let me see if I got it all straight (I read a little about the products you listed).



Optimum Compound would be used to get those swirl marks out - it's a little harsh as compared to the Optimum Polish? Correct? Because they both say they do the same thing, except it looks like the Compound takes care of slightly more severe scratches. It sais it finishes off like a polish... does that mean I wouldn't need to apply the OP after?



Then, the Menzerna FPII is a final polish, correct? You apply that on the already polished surface? :scared:



Does a sealant need to be used?



After that is done, I assume you follow up with the wax - the fk1?

The klasse all in one is also a type of wax, correct? So I should just choose one?



Thanks guys, It's a little overwhelming with that amount of products.
 
You could do Optimum Compound...Make sure to break it down properly, and then finish with FPII as your finishing polish to clear up any hazing/micromarring. A sealant isn't needed, it is just an option if you would like. After the FPII you can follow up with the FK1 Pink Wax. The Klasse AIO can be used to polish your chrome, I use it on windows also, on paint it is more like a cleaner but since you are claying you probably wont have to worry about getting Klasse AIO right now. The FK1 #425 is a great QD that you can use after washes to spruce it up.



In my opinion I reach for Optimum Compound more than Optimum Polish because with these polishes you can determine their strength by the pad you use. I would rather use a slightly more abrasive polish than have to use a cutting pad with the Optimum Polish. I think you will be fine if you just pick up the Compound and FPII - dont be scared away by the compound in the name...it isnt liquid sandpaper like some compounds on the market. :lol
 
Joshua312 said:
You could do Optimum Compound...Make sure to break it down properly, and then finish with FPII as your finishing polish to clear up any hazing/micromarring. A sealant isn't needed, it is just an option if you would like. After the FPII you can follow up with the FK1 Pink Wax. The Klasse AIO can be used to polish your chrome, I use it on windows also, on paint it is more like a cleaner but since you are claying you probably wont have to worry about getting Klasse AIO right now. The FK1 #425 is a great QD that you can use after washes to spruce it up.



In my opinion I reach for Optimum Compound more than Optimum Polish because with these polishes you can determine their strength by the pad you use. I would rather use a slightly more abrasive polish than have to use a cutting pad with the Optimum Polish. I think you will be fine if you just pick up the Compound and FPII - dont be scared away by the compound in the name...it isnt liquid sandpaper like some compounds on the market. :lol
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Thank you so much! That's exactly what I needed. With so many names and types of those darn polishes it's just tough to understand. :bow



Now when you say I need to break it down properly...what do you mean? Do I slap some on the car and then use breakdancing moves to rub it in? :spot



:chuckle:



And 425 is a good QD? What's qd? :)



Anyway, I'll be ordering my PC, set of pads, Optimum Compound, FPII, and the FK1 Pink Wax. :xyxthumbs
 
Btw, guys, how's this - I think it's the best deal and just easy because everything ships together:



http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-porter-cable-kit.html



Porter Cable 7424 Dual Action Polisher

5� Flexible Backing Plate

32 oz. Optimum Polish

32 oz. Optimum Compound

17 oz. Optimum Wax

1 Low Profile Orange Light Cutting Pad

2 Low Profile Gray Buffing Pad

1 Bar of Opti-clay

2 Cobra Microfiber Towels



for $230.00
 
needoptic said:
Thank you so much! That's exactly what I needed. With so many names and types of those darn polishes it's just tough to understand. :bow



Now when you say I need to break it down properly...what do you mean? Do I slap some on the car and then use breakdancing moves to rub it in? :spot



:chuckle:



And 425 is a good QD? What's qd? :)



Anyway, I'll be ordering my PC, set of pads, Optimum Compound, FPII, and the FK1 Pink Wax. :xyxthumbs
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QD is quick detailer; after a wash it tends to increase paint slickness, clean up waterspots



And for breaking down completely it means breaking the polish down through it's abrasive stages...Let me find the link for you a second...http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/ssr.html here it is..This site both has pictures and videos at the top to show the breakdown stages and Charles using the Porter Cable. He is moving the pc at a faster rate however because he is only correcting marring. With your swirls your going to want to move the PC at a rate of 1/2 to 1 inch per second. :dance
 
Joshua312 said:
QD is quick detailer; after a wash it tends to increase paint slickness, clean up waterspots



And for breaking down completely it means breaking the polish down through it's abrasive stages...Let me find the link for you a second...http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/ssr.html here it is..This site both has pictures and videos at the top to show the breakdown stages and Charles using the Porter Cable. He is moving the pc at a faster rate however because he is only correcting marring. With your swirls your going to want to move the PC at a rate of 1/2 to 1 inch per second. :dance
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Joshua, you da man. THanks so much for the info - that video helps a lot. What is that masking tape the guy used on the vehicle? What type is safe for paint?



Did you see my post about the kit? It's a kit that has the PC, some pads, and all the optimum products for a complete job. I think it's just easier for me - one place to order, single shipment, etc.



:up



I'll be placing the order soon. Hopefully the gf doesn't look at the bank statement. :nervous:
 
You're welcome, Im glad I could help you out. I just started getting into this around August, but I am on autopia everyday reading, looking at post, reading product reviews...Ive detailed about 10 cars for people other than family (just started last month) I have 6 more scheduled for this month. So Im getting a feel for it quickly I think. Its really a fun hobby to get into, however it is expensive :) I dont have the video pulled up right now but the masking tape is probably on the paint to just seperate his working area to show beforeafters better...most people use it around the trim so they dont get any polish/wax on the trim peices. I know 3m makes paint safe trim tape. If you have a paint supply shop around you I know they have it...the place I go has bright green 3m tape that works. You dont *need* it but it could be helpful. I did see the kit and it looks good...for $230 you are getting a lot of good things. You'll probably need more than 2 towels, so if you dont want to pick up more online..If you go to your local Target their are Vroom towels *grey and white in a pack together) I used those before I bought some of ExcelDetail, and they worked fine.
 
Sounds good! :)



I looked at that site you linked me to - good videos and very informative.

Do you personally use those special lights? How hard is it to tell that the polish has breaken down without them? I live in a condominium, so I'll probably detail in my folks garage - light is ok in there but not as bright as the stuff people use in the video.
 
needoptic said:
Sounds good! :)



I looked at that site you linked me to - good videos and very informative.

Do you personally use those special lights? How hard is it to tell that the polish has breaken down without them? I live in a condominium, so I'll probably detail in my folks garage - light is ok in there but not as bright as the stuff people use in the video.
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I do have those lights - they are only $25 at a local Lowes or Home Depot. They help alot in my opinion. And it isnt hard to tell when the polish has broken down..I dont think so at least. Just wait to the polish clears and isn't milky/white on the paint. Don't over buff once you see it has cleared..this is called "dry buffing" and it causes marring on its own. If you accidently dont work the polish in long enough if you follow your combination with a lighter polish/pad selection you can clear up any hazing/micromarring.



Example if you use Optimum Compound on Polishing pad, you could go down to Optimum Polish on either polishing/finishing pad..Whichever gives you the results
 
Joshua312 said:
I do have those lights - they are only $25 at a local Lowes or Home Depot. They help alot in my opinion. And it isnt hard to tell when the polish has broken down..I dont think so at least. Just wait to the polish clears and isn't milky/white on the paint. Don't over buff once you see it has cleared..this is called "dry buffing" and it causes marring on its own. If you accidently dont work the polish in long enough if you follow your combination with a lighter polish/pad selection you can clear up any hazing/micromarring.



Example if you use Optimum Compound on Polishing pad, you could go down to Optimum Polish on either polishing/finishing pad..Whichever gives you the results
Click to expand...





Rock on! Dude, you're helping me a ton! :getdown

And if they're just 25 a pop, I'll pick one up, just to check my work.



If you're ever in the chicoland area - let me know, I'll take some pictures of your car. A bit of a photo geek, I am.
 
needoptic said:
Rock on! Dude, you're helping me a ton! :getdown

And if they're just 25 a pop, I'll pick one up, just to check my work.



If you're ever in the chicoland area - let me know, I'll take some pictures of your car. A bit of a photo geek, I am.
Click to expand...





haha well Im not sure if Chicoland is chicago but if it is Im going there this summer to do a little shopping..For only $7 via the train you cant beat it. Its been a long time since Ive been there. And if *you* are ever in Holland, Michigan...Id be more than happy to get a ride in your Touareg :) I love the look of them...Hope all this info proves to be helpful..If you end up running into a problem you can always send me a PM, I'd be more than happy to help. Good luck and post some of those amazing photos once you get workin on it! :getdown
 
Haha, nice. And only $7.00 a pop? Good price. What is that? Amtrak?

I think I'll have to take my girly up to northern Michigan if prices are that cheap. :wired:
 
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