135 quick clean-up/OptiGuard application

Back from the dead ... :)



So I have an Integra GS-R. A lot of engine bolt-ons. I have researched them and for the money, they give me the gains exactly where I want (not sure if this is relevant info, but I'm listing it just in case).



ANYWAYS, my body shop guy told me sometimes he runs 110 low-lead from the airport in a 1:4 mixture (i think) with 1 gal 110, 4 gals premium 93. This 110 low lead is for the small personal airplanes. He claims better performance and a cleaner burning engine with it. He runs it in his 2001 Camaro SS with some bolt ons.



My question is...Are there any advantages to this or is he just thinking he is getting gains?



BTW: I am pretty close with him, I don't think he'd BS me, but he might just not have the knowledge.
 
You can definately get gains if you are currently running at the edge of detonation, otherwise its silly. In this case it is a horrible idea if you have stock emmision controls because "low lead" AV gas still has enough lead to kill your cat and possibly O2 sensor.
 
I agree with Ben.



If you need higher octane because of the modifications and fuel mixtures you are running then get unleaded racing gas. Usually comes in 100-110 octane. As local track junkies where they get their gas. It is usually quite expensive.
 
My manual say to use premium (or the highest octane available). Gotta do that with a blown engine or detonation will reduce it to scrap in a heartbeat. I am even leery of the 91 octane and had my tuner burn me a "Momma" mode on the 4-way for fuel economy on the interstate using 91 octane.
 
don_davi said:
I got my 90k service + timing belt done at the dealership this week. I asked one of the service guys how I can improve my gas mileage. I told him I use 87 and he looked at me all shocked.

He asked me if i ever get pinging with 87, and I was like not ever. Then again, i don't know what it sounds like. So what does pinging sound like? and does anyone know anything about the V6 Engine in the 4Runner? should I be using 87 or 89?
Click to expand...



Pinging is actually not a good way to describe the noise in that pinging evokes thoughts of a high pitched noise...most detonation sounds more like a slapping noise--that is--lower pitched. Its difficult to describe, but unmistakeable if you hear it.



I have only experienced pinging once and that was when I bought an '87 Toyota 4x4 that had been sitting outside for some time so the gas was old--it was probably the equivalent of 82-84 Octane or thereabouts--due to moisture buildup and the elements. Once that gas burned and I filled the tank, the pinging was gone.



It is my opinion that high octane gasoline (93) is only beneficial in high performance motors or in supercharged applications. Most owners manuals only require a minimum of 87 Octane.



Davi--today's modern engines are engineered to not need high octane gas...go with 87. People who say there is no difference between 87 and 93 are incorrect--detergent levels are different between them, its just that for most vehicle owner's the difference is not noticeable.
 
Citgo uses a lot of oil from outside the USA, its just not from the Mideast. Most of the Citgo Crude comes from Venezualean sources, Citgo is a Veneuzualean corporation.



Strange that they HQ in Oaklahoma, I deal with the corprate flight department all the time. Outside the USA they are called PDVSA
 
Green Monster said:
When you put an after market computer chip in (Super Chip or Jet Chip) they say to run Premium gasoline, is true or just a marketing thing??? :nixweiss Any thoughts?
Click to expand...



Very true! The chip tuners play with ignition mapping and air/fuel ratios. If they have tuned the ignition advance and air fuel ratio to require faster/hotter detonation of the fuel, you'd better be running premium.
 
don_davi, keep using 87 octane if it's working for you. Pinging/knock sort of sounds like marbles in an empty coffee can. That's the best way i can describe it. If you hear an audible knock, then that's a lot and for some of us with boosted applications, such as the Lightenings here and the N2O'd Civic, that usually means it's too late :eek:



Nice article by the way, but it doesn't take into account boosted apps like mine or other turbo'd/s'chrged/nitroused cars. I run the highest octane I can on the street. Here in Boston usually means a homebrew of 94+xylene mix, which usually equates to about 100 octane. At the track it's strictly C16 (116 octane) for those 27psi runs :shocked:



happy motoring folks
 
You really wouldnt hear a knock on a modern car, the knock sensor would just retard the timing to prevent the knock. Result= Less power but the engine will not be damaged.



To see if you have a knock sensor TAP the block with a hammer while its running, listen for the reaction of the engine. No reaction= no sensor
 
Ben Z,

Yeah gets pretty expensive, but I still knock down 20+mpg and I don't drive it too much. It only sees 8 months of the year anyway. I guess I am lucky there is no real high octane here or I'd be broke, lol. NH has a bunch of stations, but too far to drive for just gas. Might as well make it myself.



Great site you posted!! that should keep me busy the rest of the day at work, lol
 
Newer VWbs all call for 92 octane and running less shows a remarkable loss of performance and gas milage actually drops off. Mine is a 10.2/1 30 valve V6
 
Argh...the octane discussion...OH NO!!! I can't read this entire thread because I have done my research and I will end up responding to hald the posts with all the misinfo that's out there...so let me just throw my 2 cents in.



People are correct in saying that running a higher octane fuel than is RECOMMENDED BY YOUR OWNERS MANUAL is unnecessary and wastes money. However, you should run whatever the owners manual says. The reason for this is that the ECU, in order to prevent knock, will retard the timing slightly. This will have the side effect of reducing both fuel economy and power. The estimates used by factory engineers are usually conservative, so running a higher octane fuel than is recommended "just to be safe" is unecessary. I have also heard that you may experience some knock running lower octane fuels as the engine attempts to advance the timing as far as it can. Don't know if this is true but knock is very bad for your engine even in small doses. If you care about your car and want it to run as efficiently as it can, making the most possible power and getting the best possible economy you MUST run the octane level that is recommended by your owners manual. The difference people see in fuel economy and feel in the ***-dyno when running premium fuel versus regular (in a car that requires it) are REAL.



Now that I've said that, take a look at this...



http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/506



Given that the one plug has more miles on it and there is an appreciable difference in the appearance of the plug, I would say that the differences from standard gas that he cites are significant. Now I've heard about how the truck pulls up to the shell station then goes across the street to Mobil, but there is enough anecdotal evidence to justify the trivial cost difference to me.



What do I run? I ONLY use Sunoco Ultra 94. Yes, I may be wasting my money, but the price difference is not that significant and if there is even a chance that the above link proves anything I will stick with it. Then again, I plan to own this car forever...if I didn't care I might not spend the extra money. To me the difference in cost is not significant enough. Yes, I am doing exactly what I said not to and running it "just to be safe" but I'm fine with that.
 
One more thing after reading some more of the thread (I know, I said I wouldn't). That GAS FAQ that was posted is very good and was where I learned a lot.



Also, people saying that modern engines are tuned to not need high octane and that using low octane fuels are fine do not know what they are talking about. Low octane fuels are only fine IF YOUR OWNERS MANUAL SAYS SO. In today's world we have car manufacturers wringing a lot of power out of relatively small engines, using FI, etc. The differences in the power and economy you get with a lot of these cars is absolutely GIGANTIC...you should be running what they recommend and no less!! I understand why octane has become this thing that everyone says is a myth, but people ahve taken shooting the myth down WAY too far. Octane has a function and they sell different grades of gas for a legitimate reason. People have taken the mythbusting way too far and now everyone thinks it's fine to run **** gas ni a car that rewuires 91. The gas stations will lie to you but the car manufacturer will not...listen to them.



What people say about FI and tuning and enhanced ECU's is all true too. A lot of those ECU upgrades basically just advance the timing even farther...therefore requiring an even higher grade of octane. Again, just run what they tell you to run and you'll be fine. By the same token, though, people running race fuel...100 octane + and telling you that their car is hella fast because of it are full of it. As DavidB said, octane just prevents detonation...it does not make any more power by itself. It does allow you to make other changes to the engine which will make more power, but a stock ECU isn't going to say, "hey he put race gas in me, I'll advance the timing even farther!". It has a preset limit to how far it will go.



A lot of places in high altitudes also don't offer as high of an octane rating because I guess in higher altitudes detonation doesn't occur as often because of the lower air pressure. That's why you don't see Ultra 94 or even 93 out in Colorado, etc. like you do at places which are at sea level...or so I'm told at least.



Again...just run what they tell you to run!!
 
This 135i belongs to a friend of mine, who takes good care of it. As such, no real correction was needed except for a couple of spots that required a little extra attention. There are no before shots since the car was recently washed and in great shape anyway. All we wanted was to boost the gloss a little, then protect it with OptiGuard. Really, I just love his car and had fun working on it, so I wanted to share it with you guys.

Process:
ONR wash
Clayed with Clay Magic blue, didn't really need it though.
Wheels pulled and cleaned with ONR and Tarminator, then sealed with OptiGuard
Spot Correction with Megs D300 on MF cutting pad
M205 on tangerine HydroTech pad
IPA wipedown on paint and wheels
Optimum OptiGuard on paint, wheels and glass.

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Parked next to my E46. I wish it was in my garage all the time!

Thanks for looking.
 
Love the Beemers! If you're gonna have red interior a Beemer is a great way to go.

Nice work BTW, love it!
 
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