105 not cutting it?

M

mc01ta

New member
Have a 2007 Nissan Pathfinder in black. Had repaint on driver door and thought I took out sanding marks/swirls marks/ and holograms. Used 105 with cutting pad on PC and 205 on finishing pad. 2 IPA wipedowns, everything checked out. Couple of washes later and winter came, started noticing all the same marks and holograms.



I've never had problem correcting paint with the PC. This is normally very soft paint (factory paint). I have a feeling the repaint is rather hard to say the least. I really don't want to wetsand to level the work and don't trust them to correct their work. I never noticed the issue when I picked up the car and checked upon receiving in with my brinkman light.



I have Menzerna Powergloss along with 105, 205, PB 2.5, Opt Compound, and IP. I used 5.5 cutting pads but have 4 inch cutting pads and 5.5/4 inch yellow compounding pads.



What do you all think my next approach should be? I'm going to give it a shot again on next Tues/Wed with weather permitting. I'm trying to stear clear of ordering any new products and also don't want to wetsand. Figured I'd ask before spending hours trying different combos on test spots.



Thanks in advance!
 
thats odd, i have delt with very hard repaints and i have never had problems correcting using a pc. what pad are you using with m105?. i use m105 on orange lc and m205 on black lc. i have never had a problem with that combo.
 
Sounds like you didn't remove all the marring and just did not see it before lsp. Be sure to prime the whole pad with 105 and do an IPA wipe down. Inspect in the sun if possible or use good lighting. Then follow up with 205.
 
second and third to what they said--esp with pc--my guess is when you hit it with a primed lc orange pad--you'll want to use the KBM method (make sure you're not putting so much pressure down that it stops oscillating properly though)



PFW or wool also comes to mind if that fails...ionno...I worked on a MB550 with the orange and it seemed to take out some nasty stuff
 
Guys, how exactly should you do an IPA wipdedown? With what kind of mf? And also, how to mix the Alcohol?

sorry to threadjack.. thought it was relevant :)
 
get a high fiber/threads per gram mf since you don't want to ruin your hard work (look up cd test)

for Meg's, I'll just find the highest concentration IPA and spritz it directly on to be quite honest...I can't really tell the difference between before and after I wipe down...which leads me to believe that IPA either a) doesn't really phase the megs oils or b) I'm just a noob....which is ever most possible
 
I think if that didnt work you should take a different approach. I would either use menzerna super intense polish on a meguiars burgandy cutting pad. Or try m105 on the same pad. Sometimes the lake country orange pads just dont cut it. the new burgandy2.0 pads are more denser in my opinion and cut better with a pc. Lake country orange pads cut better with rotary in my opinion. sometimes black repaints can tricky to correct and finiky.
 
I orginally used a new hydrotech 5.5 pad and used pretty heavy pressure. Made a few passes, IPA wipe down, everything looked good. Moved on to 205 and thought everything looked great. Think i'm going to try 4 inch cutting pads and 105, if that doesn't cut it I'll go to my old go-to Powergloss. I'll keep everyone posted as i found it strange too.
 
FWIW I like 4" pads when doing correction via PC, even with M105. With the right 4" pad M105 can take you right down to primer, just takes some time. And plenty of fresh pads unless you're gonna stop and clean 'em out all the time. Using a pad that needs cleaned is pretty much a waste of time IME.
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
..to be quite honest...I can't really tell the difference between before and after I wipe down...which leads me to believe that IPA either a) doesn't really phase the megs oils or b) I'm just a noob....which is ever most possible
Click to expand...



Maybe the IPA just isn't revealing anything because there's nothing to reveal ;)



True, IPA is marginal with regard to stripping some of the Meg's TSOs, especially the ones in M205. But when it comes to stuff like M105 I never seem to have any concealing issues anyhow. Here's how I explain it:



When I'm using an aggressive product it's because I have something pretty severe I need to correct, like a RIDS on a panel with lots of other, milder, marring. While I'll concentrate my efforts on the RIDS, I'll also do the rest of the panel. I keep an eye on the RIDS and see what it takes to remove it, then extrapolate from that when determining how much work to give the rest of the panel. If the M105 takes out the nasty RIDS with, say...four tries, then it's a safe assumption (IMO) that two or three tries on the rest of the panel will remove any far-less-serious marring.



And that's a somewhat extreme example; in most cases I'm either dealing with a single RIDS on an otherwise OK panel or with a panel that's rather uniformly marred, with only a few deeper marks. I watch those deeper marks but basically give the whole panel the same amount of correction. If/when the deep stuff is corrected, then the milder stuff should be too.
 
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