10 things I've learned in 15 years of Detailing
- Thread starter charlesml3
- Start date
Just ran across someone with a "Detailing" t-shirt so I struck up a casual conversation to see about products, etc., he was using. Found out a bit more than I bargained for - seems he NEVER uses any kind of machine (never heard of a PC and Rotary "only puts in scratches" and is only used for body work), "sealants" are something that only new car dealers sell and is the same thing as wax (if you wax properly and keep your car clean - car wash is fine about once every other week - you can go a year or more before you have to rewax), and baby diapers to remove the wax.
I didn't bother to get his phone number.
Makes me feel a heck of a lot better about my own efforts!
Guess you could add that to your list - knowing when to get a phone number of a detailer and knowing when NOT.
I didn't bother to get his phone number.
Makes me feel a heck of a lot better about my own efforts!
Guess you could add that to your list - knowing when to get a phone number of a detailer and knowing when NOT.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
mystickid said:
The AR Perfectionist Prep Method
[Methodology
1. Wash-use a pH balanced pre wash treatment (Stage One PreWash) spray two â€â€œ three panels and rise off with low pressure water (this will avoid spay dying and causing water spots) once the vehicle has been pre-treated rinse the entire vehicle with low pressure water.
â€Â¢Use a quality car wash shampoo specifically formulated for automotive use, one that contains conditioning lubricants (Menzerna Auto Shampoo) 1.0oz per 2 gallon that enable abrasive particles to rinse off without abrading the paints surface.
â€Â¢Rinse vehicle and dry thoroughly to avoid any water spots.
2. Detailer's Clay -remove any imbedded contaminants with detailing clay (Clay Magicâ„¢ â€ËœBlueâ€â„¢) and a 5:1 solution of (Distilled water/Woolite®) surface lubrication
Application
â€Â¢Since a clay bar is so effective at removing deposits it will also remove wax
â€Â¢Divide the Detailer's Clay into equal pieces and knead into a ball to ensure pliability
â€Â¢Take one of the pieces and flatten it out into a small circle, approximately enough that it will fit into the palm of your hand.
â€Â¢Spray an area of 2-foot x 2-foot with a lubricating solution (WooliteTM or Dreftâ„¢ / Water 5:1) use an even applied pressure to the paint surface, ensure that the surface being clayed is always wet
â€Â¢Glide the Clay across the area in a front to back in a straight-line aquaplaning type motion
â€Â¢Use a light to medium even pressure until the surface becomes smooth and silent.
â€Â¢If the Clay is streaking on the paint, you need more to apply more lubricating solution, it is better to over lubricate the paint film surface than let it dry-out
â€Â¢When the Clay is moved across the paint film surface you should hear a friction sound and some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the solution off with 100% cotton Alpine DF Microfiber cloth.
â€Â¢To avoid wasting detailer's clay because you probably will drop it, place a towel on the ground under the area you're claying so the clay will fall onto the towel without picking up gravel etc.
â€Â¢If you drop the clay on the ground do not try to clean it, discard it or it may cause micro scratches in your paint film surface.
â€Â¢Rinse of any clay residue and ensure there is no more contamination to remove
â€Â¢Move onto the next two-foot by two foot square area and repeat the process.
â€Â¢Once half the section is completed turn the clay over to a fresh, clean side and completes the remaining section.
â€Â¢Check the surface of the clay often, once it becomes contaminated fold to a clean surface.
â€Â¢Wash, rinse and dry each section and ensure all imbedded surface contaminants have been removed before moving on to the next panel / section
â€Â¢I would go over the paint surfaces again with the clay to ensure nothing was missed
3.Clean-paint film surface with a chemical cleaner / polish (Klasse All-In-One) using a grey / black foam pad, speed # 4.5-.5.0 and an MLS of 2- feet per second (FPS)
4.Polish- remove surface imperfections (Menzerna Intensive Polish) 6/10, Orange /White Pad, speed # 3.5-4.0, and an MLS of 1- (FPS)
â€Â¢And /or a swirl mark remover (Menzerna Final Polish II, CA 3/10, White Pad, speed # 4.0 - 4.5, machine liner speed (travel rate, MLS) of 1-FPS
â€Â¢Final polishing (Menzerna Final Polish II) with a grey / black foam pad, speed # 5.0, and an MLS of 2- feet per second (FP
â€Â¢Check surface condition- using a fine mist, spray the surface with a 1:1 solution distilled water and Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or DuPont Prepsol
â€Â¢Leave it to dwell for 30-45 seconds, agitate the surface before wiping the paint surface with clean, dry 100% cotton (DF Alpine) towel to remove sealant/wax residue. Repeat as necessary
â€Â¢The use of an electronic paint Mil thickness gauge (Checkline Model DEF-900) and a 20X, or greater magnifier to check the clear coat is highly recommended
â€Â¢Place your fingertips on the paint surface, by running your finger tips along the surface there should be resistance (tension) this is indicative of a clean paint surface i.e. without any sealant / wax /oils.
â€Â¢With suitable lighting (see Dark Field Micro Inspection) and a 20X or stronger lighted magnifying loupe, you may well see some surface marring at this magnification but the less there is the better the wax/sealants will optically reflect light.
â€Â¢For surface imperfection that if removed could compromise the clear coat apply a glaze
5.Glaze-apply a final polish / glaze (Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze) with a grey / black foam pad, speed # 5.0 â€â€œ 6.0, machine liner speed and an (MLS) of 2-FP
Apply wa/ sealant of your choice
I donâ€â„¢t manufacture, sell or have any vested interest in any of the products mentioned; other manufacturers products may work equally well. I have tested the products mentioned and have found that they will perform the task more than adequately using the methodology and tools cited.
JonM
JonM
termigator
New member
JM19 said:Thank you, that was a very informative answer. I often get satisfaction out of layering three or four coats of wax over several weeks. I guess I am just wasting my time?
Since you're spreading the layers over several weeks, I wouldn't say you're wasting your time. There is a point of diminishing return, but I'm sure the first layer will have degraded to some degree (e.g. optics, slickness) before you put on your second layer. I would say you're replenishing your wax barrier!
termigator
New member
I find it to be therapeutic too! Honestly, if your car is slicker after you put on the second or third coat, it was already worth the effort, to me anyways. I rather wax with something like Blackfire or UPP every other week to keep my car "super" slick as opposed to keeping it "pretty" slick for months using Zaino(YES! I've have tried all those products and that is my opinion and mine alone!). Then again, I hear Z8 makes your car "super" slick also. HMMMMMM............
TOGWT,
Super dooper crazy thanx for making the prep guide(on the previous page) for me! :clap:
Man, I always love your posts. You say only what needs to be said and you also have a very extensive knowledge of how and why stuff works. ( I often refer to my dictionary when I come across one of your posts)
Well, this post is just to thank you dude, for taking the time to help a fellow autopian as you usually do. thanx again,
Cheers M8.
Super dooper crazy thanx for making the prep guide(on the previous page) for me! :clap:
Man, I always love your posts. You say only what needs to be said and you also have a very extensive knowledge of how and why stuff works. ( I often refer to my dictionary when I come across one of your posts)
Well, this post is just to thank you dude, for taking the time to help a fellow autopian as you usually do. thanx again,
Cheers M8.