04 GMC: Menzerna FP-II, FMJ x 3 56k = DEATH

I

imported_Mighty HD1

New member
Got a wild hair yesterday. The truck was in the beginning stages of very fine swirls/micro marring. I posted a few pics up a couple of days ago--cant see them in the pics but "I can see them". My wife thinks I'm a bit off. I have an injury to my Lt arm, so I can't do much of anything other than hold the cord out of the way. It took me about 10 hours to do it. All one handed, with the PC. My Rt arm is going to bulk up if I don't get surgery to fix lefty loosie. :chuckle:



Anyways:



FP-II with Excel Detail green pad. Speeds were 5.5-6.0, used H20 this time instead of 50/50 alochol/water. (I have a friend that has a truck like mine--he hologramed the hell out of his truck)

FMJx 3 by hand.



Some pics look like there's marks in the paint. There's not. It's the Meguiars QD I used and I didn't completely get it off in some spots so it smeared a bit. I was tired and very sore today.



Bedside:

Picture010.jpg




Drivers Door/Ext cab door:

Picture006.jpg




Picture001.jpg




Drivers Door again

Picture009.jpg




Picture016.jpg




Hood:

Picture023.jpg
 
Looks great!!! :2thumbs:



You better get your bad arm fixed soon or you will have 2 bad arms from all your detailing.



So you used the water to help with the removal of the FPII? The last few details I did it seemed that I was using less product and this made it easier to remove w/out 50/50 or water.
 
The ONE thing I screwed up on with Menzerna products in the past is:



1. Do NOT use 50/50 mix to lubricate. It'll hologram the fire out of the paint

2. Use the right pad

3. Work product until its *ALMOST* dry, and speed is your friend. 5+ setting for most stuff. IP I'll turn it down to 4 and see how the results are.



You can't really screw up with Menzerna. It's very forgiving, and the product is a pleasure to work with.



I've got 10 guys @ work begging me to take them to Classic Motoring in Tampa to make a Menzerna Field Trip.



It's all water based. No washing inbetween products to remove the haze/oil.



I'm so glad I found this site, now if I could just find another arm on here.
 
For the removal I just used a Sams Club MF.



I worked the product until it was a light haze, then it came right off. VERY easy, last time I used too much product and it was a bear to get off.



I used H20 to lubricate the pad. One spritz per panel on the pad, and I washed the pad after each panel to avoid product buildup.



I wanted to top the FMJ with #26 but I was about to die and gave up..lol



Hopefully I'll be better soon---surgery may be in the near future so that'll put me down at least 10+ weeks of washing the vehicles. :Mindwillgosick:
 
wow -- nice work. I can't wait to try out Menzerna polishes on my black 540i.



I hope I can achieve results even half as good as yours.
 
Looks great! :)





I washed a Chevy 2500 HD today, same exact color and it desperately needs polishing and waxing (last time was July!) but he had to pick up his kids from school. The thread has given me the push I needed to decide to go with PO106FF on it-too bad I am out of the sample of FMJ I had! I love how the metallic is jumping out of the paint!
 
Mighty HD said:
The ONE thing I screwed up on with Menzerna products in the past is:



1. Do NOT use 50/50 mix to lubricate. It'll hologram the fire out of the paint

2. Use the right pad

3. Work product until its *ALMOST* dry, and speed is your friend. 5+ setting for most stuff. IP I'll turn it down to 4 and see how the results are.



You can't really screw up with Menzerna. It's very forgiving, and the product is a pleasure to work with.



I've got 10 guys @ work begging me to take them to Classic Motoring in Tampa to make a Menzerna Field Trip.



It's all water based. No washing inbetween products to remove the haze/oil.



I'm so glad I found this site, now if I could just find another arm on here.
Click to expand...



Interesting. I'm new to this site. I recently purchased a new car and bought a hight school paycheck's worth :) of Menzerna products and MFs from Classic Motoring. I didn't need to use FPII on my new car (3 weeks old) but I definitely needed to use it on my '01 Tahoe. I don't have a PC yet (waiting on the local Home Depot to get another batch in @ $99/ea) so I used an MF applicator. It was late so I only did the hood and holy @#$%.... that stuff was a bear to buff off. So seeing your post about using water to help in the removal caught my eye. Can you elaborate a bit on what you did? how much water? when you washed the pad between panels did you hand wash, wring out, and reuse or did you use a new clean pad? I have a feeling that I was using too much FPII. I know the PC will help with that as it doesn't require as much product on the pad.



Great lookin' truck by the way. I've attached a pic of my 3 week old car. I clayed the surface, applied Final Touch Glaze and FMJ and it really looks good.



Any advice would be greatly appreciated on the FPII!!! BTW I hope you don't mind me posting my pics in your thread...



81777901_3fe84fe284.jpg


81774991_f439e033c8_m.jpg


81774990_ab72e72ccc_m.jpg


82271542_15af1e3dff.jpg
 
Wow, the flake is just jumping right out of the paint! Looks fantastic. Seems to be very little detectable orange peel. That's one of the nicest colors GM offers on anything. Nice job with it!
 
For FMJ to bond correctly, you NEED to do FP-II or at least the Glaze. I tried to cut corners and just throw on FMJ over top of whatever I had on the truck before I used Menzerna. 2 weeks later no beads.



I did the proper steps, FP-II, Glaze, FMJ x 2 and it lasted almost 9 months. Slickness was completely gone, but still very tight beads. Amazing stuff.



I did not use water to remove FP-II, I didn't need anything to remove it but a MF and very light pressure. It leaves a squeeky clean finish once removed. The trick is, spritz the pad with H20 very lightly--one pull of the squirter, put an X of FP-II , start on speed onea nd work it onto an area, then work up to speed 5.5-6 and move fast and evenly. Work until its almost dry, and then it comes right off with little effort.



If it's a bear to remove, you used way too much product. I used MAYBE 1/4? of the bottle to do the entire truck each panel twice. Menzerna products = very little product goes a LONG way. I got 15 applications out of a small bottle of FMJ.



To apply the FMJ and make it go MUCH smoother on and evenly applied, use a damp microfiber applicator. Screw the dry stuff the instructions say. You waste too much product like that and it goes on thick. Very thin coats is the trick. Just a haze will do it and its more than enough, removal requires little to no effort. Use a back & forth motion, dont use circles like we we all did when we were younger. I have had excellent results doing this.



Shoot me a PM if you want some pointers on Menzerna. I've had my share now playing with it on quite a few vehicles.



Your car looks great. !







ahohnstein said:
Interesting. I'm new to this site. I recently purchased a new car and bought a hight school paycheck's worth :) of Menzerna products and MFs from Classic Motoring. I didn't need to use FPII on my new car (3 weeks old) but I definitely needed to use it on my '01 Tahoe. I don't have a PC yet (waiting on the local Home Depot to get another batch in @ $99/ea) so I used an MF applicator. It was late so I only did the hood and holy @#$%.... that stuff was a bear to buff off. So seeing your post about using water to help in the removal caught my eye. Can you elaborate a bit on what you did? how much water? when you washed the pad between panels did you hand wash, wring out, and reuse or did you use a new clean pad? I have a feeling that I was using too much FPII. I know the PC will help with that as it doesn't require as much product on the pad.



Great lookin' truck by the way. I've attached a pic of my 3 week old car. I clayed the surface, applied Final Touch Glaze and FMJ and it really looks good.



Any advice would be greatly appreciated on the FPII!!! BTW I hope you don't mind me posting my pics in your thread...



81777901_3fe84fe284.jpg


81774991_f439e033c8_m.jpg


81774990_ab72e72ccc_m.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the comments.



Do you think if I topped it with S100 if it would add depth to the paint? Keep in mind I have several layers of FMJ allready so it looks very wet & somewhat deep. I'm curious as to what it would do.
 
Mighty HD said:
For the removal I just used a Sams Club MF.



I worked the product until it was a light haze, then it came right off. VERY easy, last time I used too much product and it was a bear to get off.



I used H20 to lubricate the pad. One spritz per panel on the pad, and I washed the pad after each panel to avoid product buildup.



I wanted to top the FMJ with #26 but I was about to die and gave up..lol



Hopefully I'll be better soon---surgery may be in the near future so that'll put me down at least 10+ weeks of washing the vehicles. :Mindwillgosick:
Click to expand...



Same for me here:



I also use the sams MF for removal. I also had the same experience with working it to a light haze and then its very easy to remove. I also again in the past have used too much product and it was a PITA to remove. :2thumbs:



I find the same thing with IP, use less of the product, work it to a haze and it will come off easy with your MF.



Good Luck with your surgery!
 
Mighty HD said:
Thanks for the comments.



Do you think if I topped it with S100 if it would add depth to the paint? Keep in mind I have several layers of FMJ allready so it looks very wet & somewhat deep. I'm curious as to what it would do.
Click to expand...



The Menzerna wax should be here by Feb, you may want to wait till then.
 
So many pics. So much flake popping.

Another fan of FMJ here. Really like how well it works on just about any color.
 
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