2015 black Nissan, coating, no/little prep?

A

andygold

New member
I know I'm going to probably get hammered for asking this......

Just picked up a 2015 Nissan Rogue in gloss black, no flake. The paint actually appears to be swirl-free, and needs no correction. It was built only about a month ago, so it hasn't sat long in the elements.

I'm looking to put some form of long lasting protection on it. I used System-x on another vehicle about 3 or 4 years ago, and that's still going strong, but that took 2 days to prep, tape, and apply. I'm hoping to put a coating on this new vehicle, but don't want to have to do the claying, and multiple steps of polishing before applying the coating/wax/sealant/etc...

Is there any product that can be applied directly to this new car's finish (other than a regular wax) that will give me around a year's protection with a high gloss? Is there another product that can remove whatever wax the dealership applied, before i use whatever coating you recommend?

Basically, I'm looking for the lazy man's approach, that i can do myself!!!! My arms don't work as good as they used too, so quick and easy is a necessity for me...
 
Welcome to AutopiaForums Andy, there are a few products that will last a year or longer for what your looking for.

Cquartz UK, Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating, Optimum Gloss-Coat Paint Coating or GTechniq EXO Ultra Durable Hybrid Coating. These fine products are great when one is looking for protection against the elements.
 
BTW, a word of caution. Dealers sometime use glazes to hide swirls or other marks you might encounter after a few washes. So always do your prep work before any final coating is apply to your paint.
 
Welcome, Andy Gold !
Congrats on a beautiful new vehicle !

Does the paint feel really smooth when you wash it, carefully dry it, and carefully, run your clean, dry, hand over the cool finish, in the shade ?

If you want to try to do this with as little work as possible, then perhaps you can see about getting a liquid paint cleaner like Car Pro Eraser, wipe the car down carefully, see how it looks and feels after, and apply a Sealant or Coating to the paint..

Missing a couple of steps to this process - (claybar and paint correction or polishing) may have an effect on the longevity of your Sealant, Coating, etc., so you have to be ok with this..

However, if you have successfully, applied another product in the past using your process, you might be ok, but the way to be sure that the paint is really clean and perfect, will always be to wash, claybar or rubberized towel, paint correct, polish, wipe down with a cleaner made for this process (car pro eraser), and apply your Sealant, Coating, etc...

Good luck !
Dan F
 
Wow, been here for 3 years now. I thought that I've posted here in the past, but the forum sees me as new...
Maybe I was posting on a different forum, but I'm not sure.

Stokdgs...I did my CR-V a few years back with clay with ONR, M105, M205(Griots orbital, red and orange pads), and coated with System-X, followed by Permanon . I've not waxed it since, and it still has that mirror shine and beads beautifully. I do apply Permanon once or twice a year, and the vehicle looks great. The thing is, my arms don't work like they used to. That job back then took me a full two days to do including half a day just taping off everything that was not paint. The arms are worse now, so I want to work smarter, not harder. Simplicity is key!!!

Here are some pics of the CR-V. The top one with tape is before application of System-X. The others are right after I finished coating it. I think it actually got glossier over the next day or two. Maybe it needed a few days to cure.
2011_10090106Small.jpg
[/IMG]
2011_10090113Small.jpg
[/IMG]
2011_10090108Small.jpg
[/IMG]
2011_10090111Small.jpg
[/IMG]

As stated above, I have issues with my arms, and need to make the job as easy as possible!!!!

If the dealer did use a coating to hide swirls, would a pre-cleaner such as Car Pro Eraser remove that swirl reducing coating? If it did not remove the swirl hiding product, could I use the final coating (Cquartz UK, Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating, Optimum Gloss-Coat Paint Coating or GTechniq EXO Ultra Durable Hybrid Coating), directly atop whatever coating was previously applied by the dealer? I assume that if Car Pro Eraser doesn't remove the prior stuff than I should be good to go...Yes/No?

As to clay bars...I've never had any luck with them!!! I always seem to wind up with more work after using the clay. I've used a couple of different brands and even used ONR as the lube, but the finish looked worse afterwards, and I ended up having to use M105 and M205 to correct the results of the clay. I've even used a rubberized sponge product (clay substitute) that left the same look as using clay. I'm trying to skip the clay, m105, m205, or similar and go directly from a liquid pre-cleaner to a final coating, if this is do-able. I'm hoping to do all this with wipe on, wipe off ease, without the use of the machines and many steps. Yes, I realize I'm asking for a lot :redface:

If possible, i'd like to use a coating that does not require me to mask off all the trim, chrome, rubber window moldings, etc... and I need one that will flash or cure in a somewhat cooler climate (if a product does exist). One that is user friendly and won't leave lumps that need to be polished out would be preferred. It's getting cold here fast (Northern NY), and I'm probably going to have to do this either outside or in a non-heated shop, so figure on temps in the 50's. If I have to, I'll have to find/rent a heated garage somewhere.

If all of the above is not do-able, then can you recommend a good synthetic wax or similar product that with no prep other than a good wash and possibly a liquid pre-cleaner, that can be applied in the cold and will get me through 6 months of winter (we basically have two seasons here...winter and almost winter:D)

would Opti-Seal do the trick?
 
AndyGold -
You must have been on a different forum ? Your post count here, with the post above is 2... I seem to remember your name though, perhaps your post count got messed up or something... :)

In any event, your CR-V is Beautiful ! Whatever you are using on it is amazing ! If you are happy with it, and it meets your criteria, dont change it...
With that soft Honda Black Paint, I can see where a Claybar would be a challenge...
You would need a really slippery claybar spray on it to help keep from marring the surface and you would definitely have to do it in the shade with the paint cool..

OK, so you dont really want to do a lot of Prep work on the new ride - that is fine.

Just remember that whatever you apply to the paint as your wax, sealant, coating, etc., will only have whatever is already on the Paint, to adhere to..

And if that product already on the Paint is not going to last a long time, it may come off whenever it does, and the product on top of it will go with it..

This is why we try to get the paint as clean and smooth as possible so that whatever product we apply to protect it will have a better opportunity to adhere with the clean paint surface only, and hold on longer...

If you use a paint cleaner like we mentioned above, it should remove whatever - if anything - is on the new SUV paint.. Now, if they did a really good job and hopefully didnt use a Rotary on there incorrectly, your paint should still look beautiful.... I want to think they didnt have to do much prep work on your new Nissan so your paint should be great... Every new Nissan SUV I have seen has always looked just beautiful and clear, right off the truck..

You mentioned Opti-Seal - this works pretty good but I have not seen it last anywhere near 6 months of hard winter.. And this would be on really well-prepared paintwork..

What you might consider if you want just great protection and shine to get you through the Winter could be Collenite No.845 Insulator Wax...

It was invented in Utica, NY, and has been used for years to insulate high voltage electrical lines and insulators, so they dont arc...

I know this product works great and lasts a long time and have used it for many vehicles in the past and they all came back still very shiny and protected, in the Spring..

You can of course, apply this to your clean, dry paint; just apply a thin coat, let it haze just a little and wipe the rest off..
A heavier coat will not make it better, but may increase the time it takes to remove it..
Good Luck !
Dan F
 
Old Pirate said:
BTW, a word of caution. Dealers sometime use glazes to hide swirls or other marks you might encounter after a few washes. So always do your prep work before any final coating is apply to your paint.
Click to expand...

Gospel !!!!!

I'm lazy myself, but one day of work, will let your laziness rule for a couple of years
 
So how does this sound...I think I'm finally getting somewhere that seems comfortable. :)

Detailer's Poli-Coat Paint Sealant, followed by Collinite Liquid Insulator wax #845.

Both seem to be easy on, easy off, and if I understand correctly, the Poli-Coat has a built-in bonding agent that lightly polishes the surface as it is applied. I guess/hope this might remove whatever product the dealer originally put on the car. Whatever they used, it does bead quite nicely.

1) So, no clay bar, no separate polish, no pre-wax cleaner. just wash, Poli-Coat, remove, Collinite #845, remove and done. Right?

2) Can either of these be applied to textured plastic wheel-well trim? Or will they turn everything white?

3) What about real chrome, plastic chrome, matte surfaces, glass, wheels, etc...?

4) I'll probably do it by hand as it seems easy. Dumb question...straight strokes up and down and left and right?, or circles?

5) If I do apply with my Griots 6" orbital, any recommendation for the proper color/brand of pad? I don't think I need to do any correction, I just need to apply the products. And if I do use the orbital, use it like I would with polish, going back and forth and then up and down?

6) I keep reading about not letting the Collinite dry. How much dwell time does it need to adhere to the paint or coating? Some mention 20 minutes some mention 30. What's the minimum? Can it be applied and removed as soon as I've fully covered a section?

7) Any other cautions?
 
I think you should still do Iron-X. It is simple to use, you wont have to use your arms much and it removes a ton of contaminants. Your paint will feel much smoother too.

I usually use a black LC pad to apply wax's or sealant's if I am not doing them by hand. You can still do cross hatch patterns when applying with the DA and by hand you can do circles or straight lines. Your shoulders will probably like straight lines better. I have never used any DP products so I can't comment on what you can use on. 845 I use on paint, chrome (real and fake) and wheels. I have never had Collinite dry to much to be a pain. However do not apply heavy. Start with a little to see how far it spreads. Wait for it to haze and do a finger swipe. If it smears it is not ready to remove. If it swipes clean you are ready.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top