Questions on Basic Paint Protection

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Dr_Collie

New member
I have a couple of daily drivers that sit in the sun 24/7 (driveway, work, shopping, etc.). I typically wash them in the spring and apply NuFinish, and that is is other than routine washes during the year. The NuFinish seems to provide pretty good protection throughout the year.

This year, I was thinking of applying a machine polish after washing/drying and before the NuFinish to shine the cars up a bit. Does this make sense and do I need to clay the paint before the polish or is clay unnecessary if you are using polish in this situation?

I have a PC 4224 that I will use for the polish and probably for the NuFinish with Lake Country pads.

The cars are a 1999 Mercury Sable and a 2009 Toyota Matrix.

Thanks for your thoughts!
 
1) ditch nufinish
2) after you throw nufinish out, never buy it again
3) claying is always needed before polishing, or else your just grinding around whatever bonded contaminants are there

red up on the proper wash and polishing techniques, it will change your life, and the fun you have with your cars....
 
You do need to clay the paint prior to polishing it. It will pull out a lot of embedded contaminants in the paint and it will make your polishing less likely to inflict additional swirls. There are a lot better choices of protection than Nufinish. If you want something that is very durable and affordable, I would suggest you take a look at Duragloss 105 sealant or Collinite 845 wax. Both of these products look great and offer great long term protection.
 
WaxAddict said:
+845 on the Collinite Insulator Wax - and it's just a few dollars more than NoFinish. Honestly its like $17 for a bottle that will wax 8 cars.
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A bottle of Colli 845 should do a lot more than 8 cars. It's a 16oz bottle and I use under 1oz per car easy. I figure I have almost 20+ applications from my current bottle.

 
My only advice is do yourself or your wallet a favor and run away, run as fast as you can from these forums, hurry before its too late!! You may think I am joking but I am not, run!!

Even though my current car is my DD I do take it to a show or two so I have spent a lot of money on detailing gear, more than I would like to admit. Nothing wrong with Nu Finish, I have used it and it works. If it wasn't for the car I am driving now and it being black I would still be using it. Sure you can give it a polish before waxing it. Unless you are doing major correction stick to a finishing polish like Meguiar's Ultimate Polish. Claying first will help clear the contaminants in the paint before the polish. The Ultimate Polish is good for the fine towel marks and should remove them with ease, I have used it with an orange or even white Lake Country pad. I guess I only recommend this because you can get it in most auto parts stores without having to pay a big shipping and handling charge. I have never used it but the Collinite 845 seems to be a good deal for the price. There is detailing guide section here, it is on the tool bar towards the top left, there is some good reading there. Hope this helps. Here is a link also Car Detailing How To Information


Dean.
 
Thanks for the replies and confirmation that I need to clay the finish before polishing.

I was looking at NuFinish or one of the sealants because they will last longer than the wax. I like Collinite products (use them on my boat) but one of the cars I mentioned above is going with a kid away to school and won't bet waxed regularly, so I think I need a long lasting polymer sealant. NuFinish seems to last almost a year for me, so I guess I need to read some more on the other sealants to understand why they might last longer or protect better. Perhaps the others are more highly concentrated as they aren't competing primarily on price???
 
If you are looking for maximum long term protection you can combine a sealant topped with a wax. One of the best proven combinations is Duragloss 105 sealant topped with Collinite 845. This combo has given up to a years durability on many vehicles. You apply the Duragloss 105 and allow at least 12 hours to cure then you top it with a coat of the 845. You want be disappointed at the results. I don't know of any combo, other than a coating, that can give you any better protection.

Duragloss and Collinite products are not about hype and flash. They are proven products that outperform many of the "more expensive" brands at a value that won't break your wallet.
 
Dr_Collie said:
... NuFinish seems to last almost a year for me...
Click to expand...

Then you've found your product. I like when people don't buckle under the pressure of glamorous or esoteric products.

My issue with NuFinish is based on it making a chalky mess on a Toyota where the owner swore by it simply based on longevity. NuFinish has tons of solvent and fillers. BUT, if you know the secret of successful application, then how can you go wrong?
 
wash
clay
polish
opti-coat 2.0- spend some extra money now and be done with it. permanent bonding to paint, very nice finish. probably the most durable coating today.
 
I should have mentioned that I have used Finish Kare FK1000p. It is a high temp wax that was made for molds but has found its way onto cars. There is a review on this site about it but you would have to do a search for it. I have to say the stuff has a love/hate relationship though. When I seen the reviews on it I decided to use it since I have been running it through the last couple winter. I love it because it seems to last close to 6 months. The hate part about it is that after applied if you put it on to heavy or let it cure too long it is a bear to get off. If you have ever used Turtle Wax Hard shell in the old green can you will know what I am talking about. For summer I switch to BlackFire products for my car.

Also, a note on NuFinish. I know they talk a year protection but I never got that out of it. I always used to put a coat on in the spring and one on again in the fall to make it through the winter months.

Dean.
 
I like the thought of a sealant followed by a wax. I don't know if it is true because so much of what you read is conflicting or perpetuated urban legend, but what I have seen indicates that sealants are better at keeping out oxygen (which causes oxidation) and waxes are better at protecting against UV rays. Using both gets you the best of both worlds. I am doing that for my boat as the gelcoat, while thicker than car paint, seems to break down more readily, is a major problem when it is compromised, and is subject to the harsher marine environment (more intense sun, salt, reflection, etc.).

In the marine world, [FONT=&quot]Collinite 885 Fleet Wax Paste version is the gold standard but difficult to apply and Collinite 925 is the preferred alternative for something easier to apply. I don't know how the 925 compares to 845.

Skibik, it is interesting you mention mold-release wax. My fiberglass guy (40 years in the industry and knows his chemicals) uses it after compounding and polishing a boat hull for a great shine. Just guessing, but I assumed that mold release wax is formulated to create a slippery, non-stick surface with no additional thought given to UV protection whereas waxes designed for surfaces in the sun have UV-protection additives. Based on what I have read, carnauba itself provides little to no UV protection.
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Your clear coat gives you your UV protection. The wax or sealant you put on is essentially there to protect and preserve the clear coat to make it last longer. Also, if you are planing on wax and a sealant the sealant is normally put on first then the wax.

Dean.
 
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