2010 Maserati - Help/Info

Ronkh

Ronkh

Wax Waster
2010 Maserati, Pearlized paint. Almost looks "somewhat matte" but still has shine to it. Clear bra film, and film on "chip" areas. (just installed, so however the paint below is, it's gonna stay that way)

Any tips on how to proceed? Any special precautions?













 
bump
So it shows up in new feeds

Is there possible problems using ironx with the clear bra? kind of concerns me if it can leach/bleed under.
 
I was told by Corey (CEEDOG) that Iron X can be used on clear film. I have yet to do it myself but if you contact him, he writes back fast. Todd and others have done their fair share of exotics and they may have first hand experience.
 
JSFM35X said:
I was told by Corey (CEEDOG) that Iron X can be used on clear film. I have yet to do it myself but if you contact him, he writes back fast. Todd and others have done their fair share of exotics and they may have first hand experience.
Click to expand...

I'm more worried if it gets under and that red sticks around.

I may just clay car etc
 
I have not used clay since I got the nano skin pad. Faster, no marring and I don't drop it. Use you clay up and buy this one.
 
JSFM35X said:
I have not used clay since I got the nano skin pad. Faster, no marring and I don't drop it. Use you clay up and buy this one.
Click to expand...

What an I suppose to do with the 52 bars of Meguiar's Clay I bought when Advance discontinued it

:swirly:
 
Use them up then switch. So much easier. Clay is still useful in tight spots and very dirty areas. Still use it very occasionally but never on open panels.

Trouble said:
What an I suppose to do with the 52 bars of Meguiar's Clay I bought when Advance discontinued it

:swirly:
Click to expand...
 
As far as your clay dilemma... Only use the clay for heavy contamination (I'm in the same boat as you as far as switching and having clay, except I have about 8 bars ha.)

The Maserati...

Just be careful around those edges, both with the film an the paint.

Maz = Ferrari -> Ferrari = Thin paint

This helps me ALOT.
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pdfs/painthardness.pdf

Btw - The paint is medium to soft as far as hardness goes. If your used to a certain hardness you might have to kick the pad color down a notch or two.

As far as De-con

Cleaning the car, I would say stay away from a chem cutter because of the clear bra, or just do the windscreen back (Most chem diluted contaminants "Tar, Brake Dust, Road paint" are on the sides/wells an rear/diffuser. Bugs and other physical elements can should be scrubbed off manually with a good citrus cutter and clay-bar. Chemical guys citrus wash works amazing, however it will brake down clay in minutes of contact (Make sure the surface is rinsed down before clay).

I used car-pro trix on an aftermarket clear bra and it held up fine but I rinsed it off immediately after application. The best results were from clay, any residue left on the edges of the clay bra I power washed out in two seconds (Note: Only use a an electric PW under 1600psi with a wide angle). I've done tests on dummy panels an almost anything gas in a 6 inch proximity WILL strip pretty much any paint off. Ever since then I use electric, 1850psi max and a wide angle for everything but wheels.

If the clear-bra has swirls I'd personally recommend NOT playing with them unless you have ALOT of time allocated, I usually glaze and jet-seal it (That remove's alot of swirls). I actually corrected a clear bra (aftermarket) and vinyl stripes (Oem) on a mini with menzerna FG400 used in combo with a rotary an wool (Nothing else will even leave a dent and foam usually burns up).

It was very impressive but beyond a PITA. If you overheat a section you WILL matte the section and it must be done over again.

Any ?'s feel free to ask :)

JM ~ I ordered a nano skin wash mitt, I'm really excited to use it along with Hydro2. Those two guys should kill a HUGE amount of time off my detail!
 
The Driver said:
As far as your clay dilemma... Only use the clay for heavy contamination (I'm in the same boat as you as far as switching and having clay, except I have about 8 bars ha.)

The Maserati...

Just be careful around those edges, both with the film an the paint.

Maz = Ferrari -> Ferrari = Thin paint

This helps me ALOT.
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pdfs/painthardness.pdf

Btw - The paint is medium to soft as far as hardness goes. If your used to a certain hardness you might have to kick the pad color down a notch or two.

As far as De-con

Cleaning the car, I would say stay away from a chem cutter because of the clear bra, or just do the windscreen back (Most chem diluted contaminants "Tar, Brake Dust, Road paint" are on the sides/wells an rear/diffuser. Bugs and other physical elements can should be scrubbed off manually with a good citrus cutter and clay-bar. Chemical guys citrus wash works amazing, however it will brake down clay in minutes of contact (Make sure the surface is rinsed down before clay).

I used car-pro trix on an aftermarket clear bra and it held up fine but I rinsed it off immediately after application. The best results were from clay, any residue left on the edges of the clay bra I power washed out in two seconds (Note: Only use a an electric PW under 1600psi with a wide angle). I've done tests on dummy panels an almost anything gas in a 6 inch proximity WILL strip pretty much any paint off. Ever since then I use electric, 1850psi max and a wide angle for everything but wheels.

If the clear-bra has swirls I'd personally recommend NOT playing with them unless you have ALOT of time allocated, I usually glaze and jet-seal it (That remove's alot of swirls). I actually corrected a clear bra (aftermarket) and vinyl stripes (Oem) on a mini with menzerna FG400 used in combo with a rotary an wool (Nothing else will even leave a dent and foam usually burns up).

It was very impressive but beyond a PITA. If you overheat a section you WILL matte the section and it must be done over again.

Any ?'s feel free to ask :)

JM ~ I ordered a nano skin wash mitt, I'm really excited to use it along with Hydro2. Those two guys should kill a HUGE amount of time off my detail!
Click to expand...

Thanks !!!!

Clear bra is brand new so not gonna touch it,

but wondering if I use a coating so I do that too, ot leave it alone
 
Ron I would coat the bra for the customer with OC or something similiar just because it really helps keep those clean. As for the paint it's on the soft side but very workable. I've gotten great results 1 stepping those with BF SRC compound or finishing polish.
 
Jsmooth said:
Ron I would coat the bra for the customer with OC or something similiar just because it really helps keep those clean. As for the paint it's on the soft side but very workable. I've gotten great results 1 stepping those with BF SRC compound or finishing polish.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

Think coating is the only way to go, then I don't have to worry about anything.
 
My thoughts...

Paint could be hard or soft. Really hard to tell- Maserati's have some of the most inconsistent paint systems I have ever worked on (I have polished about 30 IRC). Year-to-year, color-to-color, build date-to-build date they are all over the place in terms of thickness, hardness and surface texture.

As far as being thin... I have measured at least 20 of them and found they range in thickness from 4.5 to 8 mils. Just like modern Ferrari's, they are not thin and there is plenty to work with.

I have used Iron-X on plenty of clear bra'd cars and have never had an issue what so ever. Always apply at your own risk, but I have never heard of a problem reported as well.
 
I could not agree with Todd more! Just did a Ferrari California with rock hard paint, just start easy and work your way up untill you get what you are after.have fun,nice car!
 
Todd Helme said:
My thoughts...

Paint could be hard or soft. Really hard to tell- Maserati's have some of the most inconsistent paint systems I have ever worked on (I have polished about 30 IRC). Year-to-year, color-to-color, build date-to-build date they are all over the place in terms of thickness, hardness and surface texture.

As far as being thin... I have measured at least 20 of them and found they range in thickness from 4.5 to 8 mils. Just like modern Ferrari's, they are not thin and there is plenty to work with.

I have used Iron-X on plenty of clear bra'd cars and have never had an issue what so ever. Always apply at your own risk, but I have never heard of a problem reported as well.
Click to expand...

The paint really feels weird to the touch. Guess I'm gonna wash and then really figure out what I'm up against.
 
Todd Helme said:
My thoughts...

Paint could be hard or soft. Really hard to tell- Maserati's have some of the most inconsistent paint systems I have ever worked on (I have polished about 30 IRC). Year-to-year, color-to-color, build date-to-build date they are all over the place in terms of thickness, hardness and surface texture.

As far as being thin... I have measured at least 20 of them and found they range in thickness from 4.5 to 8 mils. Just like modern Ferrari's, they are not thin and there is plenty to work with.

I have used Iron-X on plenty of clear bra'd cars and have never had an issue what so ever. Always apply at your own risk, but I have never heard of a problem reported as well.
Click to expand...

+1

I'd imagine that they've changed since the days of seeing weaves through the paint. My last encounter was with a 308, which the paint was medium at most. I'm sure with technology and trial an error they've stepped up their paint game... even though 4.5 - 8 mils is not exactly what I would call consistent.
 
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