Autopia Guide to Sportbike Detailing

[Todd@RUPES]

Prologue:
In my career as a detailer I have had the honor, pleasure, and experience of working on some of the most valuable and most exciting automobiles ever produced: Numerous Bugatti's? Check. 30 million dollar classic Ferrari's? A few. Original paint super cars such as Lamborghini Miuras, Shebly Cobras, and the like? Yes sir. I have spent upwards of 100 hours detailing ever nut and bolt on cars which placed in their respective categories at prestigious shows such as Amelia Island and Pebble Beach...

In my personal life, I am an avid sportbike enthusiast who prefers the feeling of leaning through a corner and powering out of a chicane with the front wheel in the air at 13000 RPM while 190 horsepower struggles to find grip with the tarmac. After scouring the internet for guides on motorcycle detailing (much limited to wife's tales such as use Pledge on your chrome pipes) I have always wanted to write something a little more definitive. It was just a matter of finding the right subject matter (motorcycle) to do it.

Finally, my girlfriend purchased a 2003 Honda CBR600RR. This bike was "clean" by most standards; it looked fairly new. It did have the telltale signs of a bike that was taken care of, but by my standards, could use a little work. It likely was wiped down with a detail spray (or Pledge) after each ride (common) and thus had plenty of swirl-marks, surface scratches, and other minor paint damage that is easy to fix. The same techniques, tips, and tricks that helped me to achieve numerous show car trophies and achieve acclaim in my profession will transform a "clean" sportbike into one that stands out from the crowd.

Detailing is a systematic cleaning and cosmetic rejuvenation of your entire bike. This is a guide for the Do-It-Yourselfer. If you plan on detailing your motorcycle yourself, set aside 12-14 hours, a couple more if you plan on removing the fairings (plastics) and cleaning the engine and backsides.

Let's get started.


Getting Started:

The first step in detailing your motorcycle is going to be washing it. If you have a access to front and rear lifts it will make your job MUCH easier for this task, as well as the subsequent steps. Additionally, I chose to work outside, so a simple canopy like an EZ-UP proved invaluable. As I mentioned previously, a job this involved should take 10-14 hours (more if you remove the fairings). I did the detail of the CBR working around my work schedule so it took me 3 days, apart 5 hours each day (taking photos and writing notes for this write up).

When ever I wash my bike, I like to clean the chain thoroughly first. This way I don't think chain oil or chain wax on my wash mitts or towels and stain them, or blast grease over the rear wheel and lower body panels as I rinse.

The DID chain was much dirtier then I ever let my personal bike get. The process of cleaning is simple. Warm the chain up with a short ride or let it spin on a rear stand then spray the cleaner of your choice onto the chain. Again a rear stand makes this much easier as you can rotate the wheel.

Spray your favorite brand chain-specific cleaner onto the chain as you rotate the wheel, so as that the entire chain is covered in cleaner. I am partial to Motul. Allow to penetrate for several minutes, then brush the chain to loosen the grease. Continue working until the entire chain has been brushed. I like to use a Cobra Detail Brush Kit because it features both a brass brush (for stubborn spots) and a stiff-nylon brush for lighter-duty cleaning.

After letting the cleaner dwell, then brushing it, simply wipe it clean with an old terry cloth towel or two. Because this chain and sprocket was neglected (dirty) I had to clean it twice. After cleaning, you want to lube your chain with a chain-specific oil or chain wax. I have always used chain waxes on my bikes and have always had good results. However, the brand and type of lubricant you use will be personal preference. I like to spray it on the inside track, then rotate the tire quickly by hand to allow to centrifugal force to pull the lubricant to the outside.

Before I continue I have to give a little shout-out to Cycle Pro in Orlando. They slapped on a new set of Dunlop Q3 Tires, adjusted the suspension back to stock height, and set the rebound, sag, and damping for Krystal's weight. This was actually her first time seeing the bike. Also I HUGE shout out to by friend Sandro Diaz for hauling the bike to the shop (after I cleaned the chain) in his trailer.

This was actually Krystal's first time sitting on the bike (the suspension sag is being measured).

With the 10 year old CBR back at my house it was time to get started with the detail. I set the rear on a stand and had the help of my 9 year old son Devin. He is in the background mixing a high-quality soap in a large 5-gallon bucket.

Before Pictures:

I took a few pictures of the condition of the CBR before getting started so I could document the progress as I detailed it.

The typical wax around the decals.

The bike had been dropped and landed against a pole by the previous owner. While the touch-up paint job wasn't the best (the color was too dark and the outside edge was pink, likely from the paint being overly thinned by sanding), I knew I would improve the appearance considerably.

There was a huge amount of old wax to be found everywhere, including in the insets of most screws, bolts, and fasteners.

Numerous black-finished areas such as the frame, plastics, and rough-finish castings had build up wax and polish residues.

Detailer's "Pro Series" Car Care has three new additions to their lineups, and given their cost-effective approach to car care, I thought using their product range would a good idea. One of the biggest misconceptions in motorcycle detailing is that the motorcycles require some special products. Your plastics are painted, and should be treated as such. The finish on the wheels, frame, and other components is identical to the finish you would find on a car.

However, unlike when you detail your car, you should never use any protective dressings on your seats, tires, or controls. I do not even recommend using them at all on your bike as rain water can cause them to run down. If they end up your tires you will be in for one heck of a ride!

My son Devin standing behind the CBR, reading to get started. In front of the bike is some of Detailer's products I will be using, as long as Menzerna polishes, and a 5-gallon wash bucket filled with soapy water.


Let's Clean:

In addition to high-quality products, you will need high-quality tools. I have a full assortment of Wheel Woolie brand lamb's wool brush, as well as a Nylon Cobra Detailing Brush and a Brass Cobra Detailing Brush.

It is also important to use a slick, high-lubricity soap when washing. You want something that is strong enough to cut through dirt and encapsulate it to prevent the micro scratches and swirl marks that will dull an otherwise perfect finish. I used Detailers Auto Bath Shampoo for this task.

I like to start by cleaning the dirty area's first. In the picture below, I am spraying Detailer's Cleanse-All Exterior Cleaner on all of the heavily soiled places. You DO NOT want to use a standard all-purpose cleaner such as Simple Green. Highly-caustic cleaners such as Simple Green have been banned by the aeronautical industry because of its nature to corrode and weaken aluminum. Instead, stick with a high-quality all-purpose cleaner such as Detailers, BLACKFIRE All-In-One APC, or P21s Total Auto Wash.

Use a nylon bristle brush to lightly agitate the cleaner against areas of excess grime and build up.

As well as against areas of caked-on wax residues or wax stains...

A soft Wheel Woolies Boar's Hair Detail Brush is perfect for cleaning in recesses.

The soft boar's hair bristles are ideal for cleaning over the larger areas such as the engine covers, frame, and rough-castings. Dunk the brushes in soapy water to flush the cleaner off and keep the surface wet. You do not want to let an APC dry on the surface.

Next rinse thoroughly. Make sure to use plenty of water to flush all of the cleaner, and residue grime, off the bike.

Some areas, such as these footpegs, had tar deposits ground into the knurls. For heavy-duty cleaning on unfinished (not painted or clear coated) metals, use a brass detailing brush.

Next, lightly spray your APC into the tight cracks and crevices, such as between the frame, rear sets, engine and frame, etc. Then, using brush, wash the area with your soap solution. I really like the Wheel Woolies for this task because they come in various sizes and the soft, yet dense, wool fibers will collapse to the size of stem, allowing them to clean in tight, hard-to-reach areas. Then rinse clean.

Next up is the wheels and brake calipers. The 2003 and 2004 CBR's had gold-colored Nissin brake calipers. This one was covered in ground in brake dust and filth.

When cleaning the braking components, you want to avoid overly harsh acids or caustic detergents that will not only strip painted and coated calipers of their color, but can dry out brake lines. For all of the wheel and brake cleaning I am using Detailer's Wheel Cleaner. For more aggressive cleaning use an iron-particulate dissolving gel such as CarPro Iron-X.

Spray the cleaner onto the brake calipers and allow to dwell for around a minute. With iron dissolvers, allow to dwell until the product turns purple. Then brush lightly to agitate the solution. Here you clearly see how much brake dust is being removed.

Make sure to clean both sides of the caliper then rinse completely clean with water.

 

[Todd@RUPES]

After the front calipers I worked to the rear tire. Again, I was careful to take my time and make sure to clean from every possible angle.

The rear mounting bracket was in pretty dirty too. It was very conceivable that the brakes had never been truly cleaned before. You can clearly see the dirty residue on the mounting bracket. Taking the time to clean these areas is what separates cleaning from detailing, so take your time and detail everything!

Next spray a little Detailers Wheel Cleaner on the wheel, then wash using a soap wash mitt. I prefer the Lake Country Wool Wheel Washing Mitt because of its soft nature and easy-cleaning ability.

The freshly-mounted Dunlop Q3's had some mounting goop on them. I am always very careful when cleaning motorcycle tires and try to avoid any cleaners if possible. Instead a brass bristle detail brush and soap solution make quick work of any build up and brown residue (if done frequently).

This was also an ideal time to clean the backside of the sprocket and backside of the chain.

By using front and rear stands, wheel cleaning is easy as you can rotate the tires to clean the next spot. Just take your time and clean everything, including the spokes, wheel hub, and lips. If you don't have a stand, the Wheel Wool Wheel Spoke Brush will allow you to reach those hard-to-access areas so you are not pushing the bike back-and-forth.

This is also a great time to use the large and medium-sized Wheel Woolies to clean those hard-to-reach areas of the fairings. If these areas have a lot of build up, use a light spray of Detailer's Cleanse-All Exterior Cleaner first, then wash with an ample amount of soap solution. Make sure to rinse frequently as you complete each step!!!

The underside of the under-tail exhaust pipe had seen better days. Years of rubber, tar, and grime had plastered itself to the muffler, no doubt aided by high temperatures.

Detailer's Road Kill is a powerful bug & tar remover, perfect for the chore at hand. Spray an ample amount and allow it to dwell for several minutes.

The Lake Country Ultimate Bug Sponge is the perfect compliment to Detailer's Road Kill. The high-density foam provides more scrubbing power then regular sponges without scratching the finish.

Rinse clean with plenty of water.

With all of the detail work clean, now it is time to wash the exterior plastics. Contrary to popular myths, the plastics on your bike are painted, the same as automotive paint (the paint has more flex agent, similar to how automotive bumpers are painted). This means that you want to wash the painted surface carefully to avoid scratching and avoid products designed for plastic care, because you are working on paint.

When washing any painted surface, you always want to to take care not to scratch it. Any grime or grit that is rubbed against the surface will cause microscopic scratches that diffuse reflected light which dulls the paint. Also swirl mark scratches will be visible in direct light.

Always use a soft wash mitt or sponge and use plenty of soap solution to flush away dirt. Because my wash bucket was contaminated with the grime collected when cleaning the under carriage, I mixed up a new, fresh bucket using Detailer's Auto Shampoo. Then I added a Grit Guard Insert to the bottom of the bucket for more swirl prevention.

First, spray any tar covered (or bug covered) areas with a little Road Kill.

For washing motocycles, I like to use a CarPro 2Fingers Mini Wool Mitt. This ultra-soft is made from 100% merino wool, the softest natural wool available, making it extremely gentle. This is important because most motorcycle paint is soft, making it scratch prone. Additionally, the 2Finger Mini Wool Mitt is small and easy-to-hold, making difficult to reach areas easy to clean.

Rinse the entire bike, top-down, to remove any loosened dirt from the paint. Then, picking up a lot of soap solution, lightly clean the painted areas. Never scrub, just lightly wipe.

I like to wash all of the controls (using a Wheel Woolie to clean the front forks) and windscreen as well. The polycarbonate used to make most windscreens is extremely scratch prone, so using the same careful washing technique is imperative.

Rinse thoroughly!


Drying:

When it comes proper upkeep of your motorcycle, how you dry it is one of the most important considerations. Using an old terry bath towel or synthetic chamois will certainly remove water, but they can scratch or swirl the paint. Water, in and of itself, is not very slippery; Since the lubricated soap solution has been rinsed off, proper care is even more important.

There are two options, and using a combination of both is the best: 1) blowing the motorcycle dry. 2)toweling the motorcycle dry.

Because Motorcycles have numerous cracks, crevices, and compartments to hold water, and because the actually body panels have a small surface area, I like to start with blowing as much free standing water from the bike as possible. For this, I like to use the Metro Vac Master Blaster. Armed with twin 4-horsepower engines, the Metro Vac Master Blaster provides enough heated air to evacuate water from the surface completely.

The long hose provides enough reach to dry the the bike completely.

Here is a video review I did of the Metro on a Ferrari 458 that I detailed, although it works even better on a motorcycle!

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QVTbKCArzU"]Metro Blaster Quick Review - YouTube[/ame]


The other option, towel drying, will work well too. I would avoid using old terry cloth towels as they harden after a few uses and the nylon stitching is recipe for scratch city on soft motorcycle paint. Synthetic and natural chamois are also effective at removing water, but have no nap, so any dust and dirt that has settle will be effectively wiped across the surface.

I prefer microfiber drying towels, in particular the Guzzler Waffle Weave Drying Towel. As the name suggests, this towel literally drinks water off the surface, while the nap and soft nature help prevent scratches and swirl marks. The Sonus Der Wunder Microfiber Drying Towel is another high-quality option.

I personally use a combination of blow drying and towel drying. First, I wipe the body panels LIGHTLY to remove any standing water and water droplets (from the paint and windscreen) that could lead to water spots. Then I carefully blow as much water off the bike as possible, starting at the top, working down from the windscreen, to the front fairing, to the controls/triple trees, through the forks, front fender, wheel & front brake, then from the gas tank, down each side, and finally the rear. Afterwards, I will again lightly towel the paint to remove any tiny water beads that have been blasted from cracks and crevices.


Lets Start Detailing:

With all of the lose grime and dirt removed, its time to really start detailing! Using a systematic approach, it is now time to deep clean all of the wax residue, compound residue, and grime from areas that regular cleaning wouldn't.

Even after careful washing, plenty of wax residue remained on the rough-cast finish of the CBR's frame.

There are several products designed for wax removal. Using an all-purpose cleaner, a tooth brush, and a lot of patience will work over time. Also using a dedicated wax cleaner will have some effect, as well as certain all-in-one polishes such as Klasse All-In-One.

The other option is to cover up the white stains with a dressing, although this effect is short lived and I do not like using a protectants on motorcycles (discussed above). Detailer's Coating Prep Polish is an excellent product with multiple uses. When wiped into textured and black finishes, and wiped off wet, it will make quick work of wax residue PLUS it leaves nothing on the surface!

Remember you have to completely wipe off the residue, the results immediately after wipe off.... All wax residue is gone and the frame looks fresh!

Detailers Prep Coating Polish will also work on light scuff marks such as the one on the CBR's first-generation Unit Pro Link swingarm.

Again, take your time, and systematically work around your bike, removing residue from every crack and crevice.

After careful cleaning, the dark plastic frame cover and frame look factory fresh, with a rich satin shine.

The left side of the engine cover has been cleaned. It looked like it was in good shape, but if you compare the left side (clean and polished) to the right side (which looks chalky from oxidation) the results are immediate. It is this careful attention to cleaning and rejuvenation that makes separates detailing from cleaning.

The engine cover after polishing, looking factory fresh.

 

[Todd@RUPES]

Detailer's Coating Prep even works wonders on oxidized plastics. If it sounds like I am bragging about this miracle product, it is because I am. For years, I wish I had something that worked this well on restoring a number of finishes.

Here is the rear fender. You can see the built up the oxidation on the finish.

And after cleaning.

Polishing- Getting Ready For Surgery:

With the Honda CBR600RR cleaned of 10 years of dirt, filth, and careless detailing, it was ready to to prepare the paint for a thorough rejuvenation. The way you rejuvenate paint is similar to how you exfoliate skin. You remove a very small amount of the surface of the paint to expose a fresh finish. This process is called polishing.

In addition to removing the very very top of the paint, you also want to create a swirl-free free finish that is void of the microscopic scratches and swirl marks that reduces your paint's reflectivity.

Polishing refers to using different grades of buffing liquids (called polishes) in combination with different grades of polishing pads in order to remove trace amounts of the surface. Much like various grades of sandpaper (from a coarse 500 grit to an ultra-fine 3000 grit), polishes can range greatly in their intended use as well as the quality of the finish they produce. When done correctly, polishing the paint will remove most defects from the paint AND create a microscopically level surface that reflects life maximally.

Here are several articles on paint polishing that may are worth reading:

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums...6769-detail-institute-what-paint-defects.html

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums...04-choosing-right-style-type-da-polisher.html

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums...0-polishing-supplies-beginning-polishers.html

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums...autopia-car-care-polish-comparison-chart.html



More on polishing in a moment; before we can start polishing we need to prepare the bike.

The first thing I did was remove the old, dulled, and scared tank pad. This pad was shot and the edges were caked with old waxes, and trying to polish around it would result in a lot of missed spots. New tank pads can be purchased for around $20.00 which is worth it considering the time invested so far.

To remove an old tank pad, lift it at the edges first.

Then pull the tank pad at a sharp angle against itself. By pulling at an angle (instead of lifting up) you greatly reduce the risk of lifting the paint.

Next, remove the seats and any easy-to-access areas. Use tape to mask off any unfinished plastics or textured black pieces that could get stained with the polish as well as any sharp surfaces that could damage the polishing pad.
I like to use both 3M Scotch Premium Automotive Masking Tape (green) and 3M Ultra-Thin "Fine Line" Vinyl Tape.

Decals: To Polish or Not?

Most sport bikes have numerous style decals on the side fairing and gas tank. Should these decals be polished (remembering that polishes are abrasives) or should they be masked off.

First of all, most gas tank decals are clear coated. This means that after the tank has been painted, the decal is applied, and then a layer (usually several coats) of clear paint is sprayed over.

On the body fairings, the decals are usually laid over the paint. These decals can range from graphic designs to model designations. On some higher end motorcycles, the side fairing decals may be clear coated as well.

If the decal has a sharp edge, it is likely laid on top. If it has an a smooth edge, it likely has been clear coated. The question is, should you polish over the decal or should you take the time to mask it off and avoid it?

IF the decal is clear coated, you want to polish over it like the rest of the paint. The clear coat paint is likely thin on the sharp edges, so avoid excess polishing on the edges, but otherwise treat just like the paint.

IF the decal is laid on top of the paint, then let common sense guide you. If the decals are old, sun beaten, and worn, then polishing them could remove the color or cause them to lift. However if the decals are in good condition AND you are not aggressively polishing them, they SHOULD be fine. In most cases they will benefit from light polishing as it will remove light oxidation and build up, restoring the gloss. Always test an inconspicuous spot first!

In the case of this CBR, the tank was clear coated (as expected) and the side fairing decals were laid over the paint (again, as expected). The decals were in good shape and after spot polishing a small spot, I elected to polish over the decals like I would the rest of the paint.


Polishing- Surface Enhancement!:

With the motorcycle prepared for polishing, it was time to remove 10 years of wear and poor wash techniques from the paint, restoring the original gloss and luster. Machine polishing used to be a black art, but with the advent of beginner-safe Dual-Action Polishers and modern paint-friendly polishes, it is now possible for new users to achieve professional results.

Selecting the right machine: There are many styles of machine polishers available; Random Orbital DA polishers are generally regarded as the safest and easiest to learn for a number of reasons. Of the many styles of Random Orbital DA Polishers available, the Griot's Garage 3-Inch Professional DA Polisher is the ideal machine for working on the complex body lines of a motorcycle.

The Griot's Garage 3-Inch Professional DA Polisher features a short 3/16-inch orbit and works with small 3-inch buffing pads so that it can fit into places where other polishers will not. This means you can access more of the small and complex body panels while maintaining complete control.

For the first step in polishing, I elected to use the Griot's Garage 3-Inch DA Polisher with a Lake Country Hydro-Tech 3 Inch Cyan (color) Foam Pad. This is an aggressive foam pad that is designed to remove a maximum amount of swirl marks per application. I teamed this with Menzerna FG400 Fast Gloss Compound. A new generation of polishing compounds, Fast Gloss removes paint defects quickly without leaving behind the haze and buffer swirl associated with aggressive polishes.

Apply a small amount of polish to your pad. Three sub-dime sized drops is plenty to polish 4 square feet of surface area.

Hold the pad firmly to the paint and spread the polish over the working section. You should always polish a section of paint at a time. Set the speed to 5 or 6 (near maximum or maximum) and begin polishing. Keep firm pressure on the pad and move the machine slowly in overlapping passes over your polishing section. For reference, I polished the gas tank in 3 different sections.

Continue working the polish over the surface until only a light film remains. This is a good indicator that the polish has broken down (the abrasives in the polish have become finer and finer, leaving behind a high-gloss finish).

Do NOT allow the polish to dry on the surface. Wipe the residue off immediately with an ultra-soft microfiber towel that will not scratch the surface. I prefer using a Supreme 530 Microfiber Towel. You don't want to inflict any swirls or scratches into the newly polished paint.

Here is a picture of the paint BEFORE POLISHING, inspected using a Brinkmann Dual Xenon "Swirl Finder" Spotlight. The swirl marks and surface scratches are extremely visible.

A cropped view of the same photo...

After the first step of polishing. You can see some light defects remain, although the surface looks much better. The deeper the scratches, the more paint you have to remove to create a level surface. I elected to do the first polishing step twice to remove as many defects as possible WITHOUT thinning the paint too much and with the understanding that the increase in gloss, clarity, and reflectivity would be HUGE!!!

Here is a picture of the front fairing before polishing. You can see a haze of scratches around the circumference of the fluorescent light.

After the first step of polishing. Notice the huge difference in clarity and color vibrancy, as well as the lack of haze around the light.

I actually polished the left-side of the fairing (facing the bike first), so I shot a picture of the unpolished side first (below)

Compared to the polished side!

Even the windscreens on motorcycles are scratch prone. Darker, aftermarket screens show these scratches quite visibly. With the Brinkmann Swirl Finder Light shining on this Puig Smoke Windscreen, the haze and scratches are quite visible.

After one round of polishing.

With most of the first-step (aggressive) polishing complete, the next area I wanted to address was the area of touch-up paint on the tail. While I won't go into detail on how this accomplished (because sanding is an advanced technique) I used a combination of Meguilar's 1500 grit and Meguiar's 3000 grit UniGrit Sand Paper to feather in some of the rough areas. Here the picture after sanding.

And here is the same area after polishing, using the techniques above, to remove the residual sand scratches and restore gloss to the paint. Perhaps in a future write-up I will strip the poorly matched color touch-up paint and detail the correct way to repair this.

Final Polishing:

After the first step (corrective step) has been completed, it is important to follow up with a finer step of polishing (using a finer polish and a finer pad). This removes any haze from the paint and microscopically levels the finish for maximum shine. This step removes any evidence that the paint was ever polished.

For this step I used the same techniques outlined above, but used an ultra fine Menzerna SF4000 Super Finish Polish and a Lake Country Hydro-Tech Tangerine Polishing Pad.

 

[Todd@RUPES]

The Results Of Polishing:

When done correctly, polishing will yield incredible results and dramatically increase the paint's reflective ability. Here are few photos of the refinished paint on this 2003 Honda CBR.

The gloss and reflection on both the polished decal and polished paint is outstanding. Clearly polishing the decals was the correct choice in this case. It is also worth noting the there is no wax on the surface, it is bare and squeaky clean.

The Honda likely never exhibited this level of "show-car" shine, even when brand new.

The swirl-free finish visible in direct sunlight. Also notice the lack of scratches on the windscreen.

No swirl marks visible in direct sunlight.

Bright, vibrant red and deep, highly-contrasted black highlight this polished surfaces of this 10-year old Honda CBR600RR.

Post-Polishing Cleaning Up:


With the paint polished to a high gloss, it is now time to do the final post-polishing detailing. Polishing is a dusty, and sometimes messy process, which is why some tasks where not completed during the original clean up. I personally like to wash the motorcycle one more time to remove any dust or splatter that has settled during the polishing process.

Before washing, I wanted to detail some areas that are prone to soiling when polishing, starting with any hex bolts. In the picture below you can see polish residue inside the bolt hole.

Unscrew the bolt (or loosen it) so that you can clean the face of the bolt without scratching the paint as well as clean underneath the bolt.

Using a brass detail brush, lightly scrub the face of the bolt to remove the built-up polish residue. Also wipe the area of where the bolt was with a microfiber towel to remove any residue from the paint.

For some fairing bolts, it is easy to loosen the bolt/fastener so that it stands away from the panel.

Make sure to take your time and systematically work around the motorcycle.

Turn-and-push fasteners are magnets for wax-built up and staining.

Years of built-up wax residue...

Scrubbed, cleaned up, and going back in...

Now its time to wash the bike again using soap and water. For the final wash, I like to start by cleaning any polish residue using a variety of swabs. Here the common Q-tip compared to the hugeS100 Detailing Swab. I will use both.

The bolt hole recesses on this front light cover were coated with caked-on wax, dirt, and polish residue.

Fresh soap-water solution and a q-tip is the perfect cleaning towel Insert the q-tip and twist.

All clean!

For large openings, use the S100 Detailing Swab.

The final step, before washing, is clean any wax residue from the embossed letters on any turn indicators or reflectors.

A nylon detailing brush and soap-water solution makes quick work of the annoying wax residue. If needed, give the bristles a quick shot of Detailer's Cleanse-All Exterior Cleaner (or your favorite APC) first.

 

[Todd@RUPES]

Finally, I went back to the Wheel Woolies to clean the underside of the rear fender as well as the area between the back tire and rear of the swing arm. It is difficult to see the Woolie in there doing the cleaning.

With the CBR back under the canopy, it was time to carefully re-wash the entire bike and remove as much polish dust as possible.

One trick I am fond of is to use an old hotel room key, gift card, or credit card to as a cleaning towel. Simply wrap a microfiber towel around the card and use the firm edge for cleaning behind emblems, between body panel gaps, and into hard-to-reach areas.

Finally wash the rest of the bike and dry with care to avoid scratching the paint using the steps outlined in the washing section of this article.

Protection: The Final Step!:

It's been a long read and a lot of work so far, congratulations on sticking through it thus far. After cleaning and detailing the bike, the last step is to pick the appropriate wax, sealant, or paint coating to protect the finish and help preserve the work you put into it.

All too often, many people rely on their wax to create a shine on their paint. While a wax, or synthetic paint sealant, will increase the shine slightly, most of the improvement in the appearance comes from polishing the surface smooth. Since, in the above steps, the CBR has been polished to a high-gloss shine, the wax or sealant becomes like icing on the cake. It will add some gloss and can augment the shine (increase gloss slightly and adding depth) depending on the product you choose. Their are several categories of LSP (Last Step Protectants) which are commonly referred to as waxes.

Waxes- Wax is a fairly generic term that is often misused. Wax, in the detailing world, refer to protectants which use natural wax as their primary ingredient. Carnauba waxes can range in price from several dollars all the way up to several thousand depending on the quality of the carnauba, the additional waxes it is blended with, whether the wax is created in machine automation or hand poured, and the rarity of the oils it is blended with.

In general, carnauba waxes will not last as long as the other categories of LSPs, but will produce a deep, rich, 3 dimensional shine that gives the paint a shimmering shine. Some carnauba waxes will stain trim, while others will apply and wipe off like butter.

Some of my personal favorite carnauba waxes include BLACKFIRE Midnight Sun, Pinnacle Souveran, P21s 100%, and Collinite 915.


Paint Sealants- Paint Sealant are a category of LSPs in which the primary ingredient is synthetic ingredients. When synthetic paint sealants first gained popularity in the late 1970s and early 1980s, they were often lauded for their plastic-like appearance, although praised for their long-lasting durability. Advances in technology have allowed paint sealants to keep their durability and gloss while producing a richer, wetter appearance.

Synthetic paint sealants can range in price from about fifteen dollars up to fifty or more for high-quality examples. Paint sealants can range in appearance from a carnauba-like glow (great for darker colors) to high-gloss, extremely glossy shine (great for light colors and metal flakes).

Some of my personal favorite paint sealants are BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection, Wolfgang Concours Deep Gloss, Duragloss 101, and Ultima Paint Guard Plus.

A subset of Paint Sealant, known as Wipe-On, Walk-Away paint sealants use advanced technology to make application extremely easy (and fast). With WOWA Paint Sealants, you simply mist a small amount on the paint and spread into a thin coat. Technology takes care of the rest, as the sealant will self level and cure without the need to be wiped off.

If you are going to use a Synthetic Paint Sealant on your motorcycle, consider these Wipe-One, Walk-Away Paint Sealant. Not only are they effortless to apply, but they will not cause "wax build up" or staining on decal edges or textured pieces. Some of the most popular include BLACKFIRE Crystal Seal, Ultima Paint Guard Plus, and Optimum Opti-Seal.


Paint Coatings- The third, and newest addition to the LSPs are Paint Coatings. Paint Coatings use the latest in nano-grade technology to deliver either semi-permanent glass-based coatings or permanent resin based coatings. Paint Coatings offer many advantages, including extreme durability and improving scratch resistance.

Paint Coatings literally blanket the paint in a long-lasting shell of glass or resin that offers extreme protection with a very high-gloss shine. Paint and material that has been coated will be easier to clean AND stay clean longer. Some of the more popular paint coatings include the permanent resin coating Opti-Coat, as well as the long-lasting semi-permanent glass coatings such as Wolf's Chemicals Hard Body, CarPro CQuartz, and Gtechniq EXO.


For The CBR:

For Krystal's Honda CBR600RR, I elected to go one of the newest and most advanced paint coatings: Detalier's Paint Coating.

Detailer's Paint Coating is a professional-grade paint coating that offers maximum protection, a high-gloss finish and exceptional water resistance while remaining easy- to-apply for users of all skill levels. Formulated with the latest in nano-based glass-like ceramics, Detailer's Paint Coating forms a semi-permanent bond to create mirror-smooth finish that reflects light intensely. Unlike most paint coatings which can be intimidating to apply, and seem to require a chemistry degree for good results, Detailer's Paint Coating is as easy to apply as any Wipe-One, Walk-Away Paint Sealant.

Detailer's Paint Coating, like other paint coatings, requires a perfectly clean surface to adhere to. Traditionally, detailers and enthusiasts have relied on wiping the paint with alcohol or solvents to strip it perfectly clean.

Detailer's Coating Prep Polish is a non-abrasive polish (compared to the abrasive polishes used to correct the paint earlier in this write up) that gently cleans all polish residue, wax, and material from the surface, leaving the paint ready to accept the coating of your choice.

Start deep cleaning the paint with Detailer's Coating Prep Polish. When used on paint, it is best to apply with a soft foam pad and low speeds. I, again, used the Griot's Garage 3-Inch DA Polisher, this time equipped with an ultra-soft Griot's Garage 3 Inch Red Waxing Pad.

Apply three small droplets to the circumference of the pad.

Instead of using speed 5-6 as was done when abrasive polishing, set the polisher to speed 3-4. The goal isn't to aggressively polish the paint, but rather allow the machine to work the cleaner against the surface.

Spread the polish over the section. When using the Prep Polish (cleaning) you can polish a larger section at a time.

Work the polish over your section in overlapping passes until it begins to turn clear. Because we are just deep cleaning the paint, work a larger section with less pressure.

Detailer's Prep Coating Polish will appear to disappear into the paint. Wipe off the miniscule residue with an ultra-soft, super-plush microfiber towel to avoid dulling the now perfectly prepared finish. I like using the Chinchilla Microfiber Buffing Cloth when care needs to be the greatest.

After prepparing all of the paint (remember we used Detailer's Prep Coating Polish on the trim and plastic earlier to restore it), it was time to seal in the hard work under a layer of Detailer's Paint Coating.

Detailer's Paint Coating comes in a 4-ounce spray bottle and is as easy-to-apply as any Wipe-On, Walk-Away Paint Coating.

Prime the applicator pad with one mist of product...

Then spray a small mist onto a section of paint.

Next spread Detailer's Paint Coating over the paint in overlapping strokes until it appears to disappear into the paint. Work in a criss-cross pattern over a 4 square foot section. You will feel the applicator get a little grabby as Paint Coating binds into the paint.

Allow Detailer's Paint Coating a few minutes to bind, then lightly buff over the area with a lint-free microfiber towel. While it is not necessary to buff over the surface, it is good practice, to remove any streaks that could cure into high spots.

For the wheels, black plastics, and trim, I used Detailer's Wheel Coating. Detailer's Wheel Coating is based on the same technology as Detailer's Paint Coating, but is designed to bond to small surface areas quickly. Apply it in the same manner to the wheels...

Black plastic trim...

powdered coated frame...

trim and swingarm...

and engine casings...

Detailer's Wheel Coating and Detailer's Paint Coating will take several hours to cure, so they should not be exposed to moisture in this time. Additionally, do not top with wax OR wash with surface for at least 24 hours.

While I let the coatings cure, I replaced the seats. The seats had an non-natural sheen (gloss) that looked cheep. This normally occurs from the vinyl surfaces out gassing. A light wipe-down with Detailer's Interior Cleaner (right side of the seat) dulled the sheen and created a nice, satin finish.

With all surfaces coated, and the third day complete, it was time to pull the highly detailed CBR into the garage and allow the coating to cure.

Unless somebody was a bike enthusiast, it would be very hard for them to know this wasn't a new model from the showroom floor! Look at the vibrant finish and gloss.

 

[Todd@RUPES]

Krystal's bike pulled into the garage, next to my toys (red and black jokes aside), while the coatings cure.

With Detailer's Pro Series Paint Coating allowed to cure for 24 hours the bike has a high gloss shine. Unlike many paint coatings, Detailer's allows you to top (known as layering) the coating with a high-quality paint sealant or car wax so you can alter the look and add even more protection.

I wanted to add a coat of Detailer's high-gloss, deep-shine Max Wax Carnauba, but first wanted to take a video blasting the bike with water to show off the protection on the wheels, frame, paint and plastics...

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmnwCK7XCco"]Detailers Paint and Wheel Coating water beading - YouTube[/ame]


After this video, I applied a coat of Detailer's Max Wax Carnauba Wax. This easy on wax simply wipes on the paint like butter and buffs off with ease, adding an extra degree of richness to the paint.

The last touch!!! A new PROGRIP tank pad as added.

Final Pictures:

 

[Todd@RUPES]

Thank you for reading!

Questions and Comments Welcome!

 

[Dcox9]

What was the total time spent on the bike? And nice work Todd! Looks awesome!!

 

[ca.detailchick]

WOW! Great job and gorgeous bike!:bigups

 

[Pockets]

Good read there Todd! My bike has been lacking the TLC that she needs like you just gave yours ..... guess this motivated me to do it sometime this summer =) It looks beautiful

 

[Pats300zx]

Amazing write up Todd !!!! The bike looks fantastic !!!

 

[Orinda Auto Detail]

WOW Todd!! Your a beast!!! Looks amazing!

 

[tropicsteve]

your usual attention to detail with outstanding results todd. great, thorough review! :bow

 

[mrclean81]

This is the best write up Ive ever seen on a bike detail, period. From one bike owner to another, great job my friend :bigups

 

[rzatch]

Great write up Todd. This may be more of a maintenance item than a detailing one but not really. Something that is often overlooked, missed or generally not done is the lubrication of all joints. pivots, levers and cable ends after a wash or ride in the rain. A shot of WD40 or water displacing lubricant in all the switches can also save you headaches down the road.

 

[Ronkh]

Absolutely beautiful job.

I don't have the patience to do a job like that. Bikes are tougher than cars and that was complete attention to detail...

But one question.... With the coating you said work it in over a 4 sqft area. So one spray shudda covered entire bike?

 

[Chaseme]

Awesome post Todd :rockon

 

[Lou Bunn]

Wow, amazing as always, you could detail my wife's mixer and it'd be awesome - you got the touch!
And - hope the girl friend gave you at least a home cooked dinner!

 

[Todd@RUPES]

What was the total time spent on the bike? And nice work Todd! Looks awesome!!

I believe the time spent was around 15 hours total, with taking pictures. I could likely have gotten it down to 12 hours or less.

Good read there Todd! My bike has been lacking the TLC that she needs like you just gave yours ..... guess this motivated me to do it sometime this summer =) It looks beautiful

Thanks Pockets. To answer your question from the other thread, my old '05 CBR handled much lighter, likely due to the inverted forks vs. the standard forks on the 03. My ZX-10R is far more flickable than either. The only bikes I have ridden that can transition as quickly are the new Ducati Panigale and the 07 and up CBR600RRs.

Great write up Todd. This may be more of a maintenance item than a detailing one but not really. Something that is often overlooked, missed or generally not done is the lubrication of all joints. pivots, levers and cable ends after a wash or ride in the rain. A shot of WD40 or water displacing lubricant in all the switches can also save you headaches down the road.

Excellent points!

Absolutely beautiful job.

I don't have the patience to do a job like that. Bikes are tougher than cars and that was complete attention to detail...

But one question.... With the coating you said work it in over a 4 sqft area. So one spray shudda covered entire bike?

I want to say I used about 5 mists to coat the entire bike.

Wow, amazing as always, you could detail my wife's mixer and it'd be awesome - you got the touch!
And - hope the girl friend gave you at least a home cooked dinner!

Yes she did, she is very good to me!