Recommendations on pad/product

M

MasterSprtn117

New member
Pictures - Is this considered heavy oxidation?

I asked for help on another forum a few months ago about this car and did the McGuire's Paint Restoration Kit by hand.

Finally got a DA polisher - [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-10765STDCRD-Random-Orbital/dp/B0042KHPJS"]Groit's Polisher[/ame] a few weeks ago and need some advise on what pads and product to use. (Has 6 inch hook and loop backing plate)

Also, what product and steps would you guys recommend for deep scratches? It definitely needs some touchup paint near the tail light. Should I just order by the paint code? Not sure which brand to look for.

I assume I'll have to clay bar the car again? It was clayed about three months ago. The paint is 22 years old at most (I think it had a respray at some point, maybe), if that needs to be kept in mind. Also, I'm trying to keep the cost down..

Meanwhile, I'll be watching videos on technique.
 
I agree with Steve, Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction kit has a great following and performs very well on a Porter Cable 7424 style dual action polisher...:bigups

:welcome: To Autopia Forums!!
 
ihaveacamaro said:
I can't tell 100% from the pictures, but yeah it looks heavily oxidized. I wouldn't worry about claying it because at this point it's that bad that you could just go to polishing.

IMO I would never go straight to the compounding without claying unless a baggie test indicated claying wasn't necessary. No need to grind any contaminates into the surface.
Click to expand...
 
Paul S said:
I can't tell 100% from the pictures, but yeah it looks heavily oxidized. I wouldn't worry about claying it because at this point it's that bad that you could just go to polishing.

IMO I would never go straight to the compounding without claying unless a baggie test indicated claying wasn't necessary. No need to grind any contaminates into the surface.
Click to expand...

I would agree with this except in instances when the entire car is oxidized.

As Mike Phillips put it in his article in my previous post (with a car that looks similar to the paint condition of the OP), he skipped claying because the dead oxidized paint will simply load the clay up with dead paint.
 
The oxidization as shown IMO doesn't look that severe. As I posted I would proceed with the clay. If the OP was to experience a loading of the clay he could at that point change his procedure. Each job needs to be evaluated on a individual basis. From previous experience that would be my approach to the problem.
 
Paul S said:
The oxidization as shown IMO doesn't look that severe. As I posted I would proceed with the clay. If the OP was to experience a loading of the clay he could at that point change his procedure. Each job needs to be evaluated on a individual basis. From previous experience that would be my approach to the problem.
Click to expand...

Fair enough. It never is good enough to make an evaluation from just pictures alone, so I said what I *thought* would be the case from the OPs pictures.

In any case, I too would probably just try clay on a test spot and see if it loaded up or not and then decide from there. :)
 
What do you guys mean by "loaded up"? When I clayed the car when I got it, it made the paint ALOT smoother. It was VERY VERY noticeable between panels that were clayed and were not. It took forever...

About that Meguiars Starter kit, the groit's polisher already has a 6" hook and loop plate...I guess the Mcguires polisher doesn't? Are there any other kits that don't include a hook and loop backing plate? I don't really want the added cost if I don't need it, assuming the others are less expensive.
 
What I meant by loading up was the amount of contaminates being picked up . If it got to where you couldn't clay for long without the clay picking up some much that it was no longer effective and kneading the clay did not expose a clean enough surface to continue. As for whats included in a kit I would make a call to Todd or one of the customer service reps and explain what you are looking to accomplish. Custom kits can be tailored to your needs.
 
ihaveacamaro said:
Paul S said:
I would agree with this except in instances when the entire car is oxidized.

As Mike Phillips put it in his article in my previous post (with a car that looks similar to the paint condition of the OP), he skipped claying because the dead oxidized paint will simply load the clay up with dead paint.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't agree with this, although I do understand Mike's point.

Oxidized paint is fairly easy to polish away because the paint is "dead" (lack of a better term) and it wipes right off with friction. I would still clay because I don't like the idea of driving contamination across the fresh paint as the oxidation is removed.

Regardless of the pads/technique used, you are going to want to clean the pad frequently.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top