Comprehensive Opti-Coat 2.0 Application Guide

PPLd said:
I m wondering if anyone have ever tried to apply OC with a 4 inch pad and DA? While we still prime pad and apply product to pad like we do for foam applicator, will DA make OC applied more evenly?

Dennis P.
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Todd Helme said:

Thank you Dennis.

I have not applied Opti-Coat with a DA polisher, but I have thought about for testing purposes. I am sure, when I have the time, I will give it a shot. I will make sure to report back.
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This is not a good idea, guys. OC has no lubricity, will flash faster via machine, and will likely allow the pad to mar as it becomes "tacky". OC should only be applied by wiping on, or by spraying on.
 
Marc08EX said:
Thanks for the info Todd! :rockon

So long as the solution hasn't hardened to a resin then it should be good to use right? Do you have a picture that shows us how it should look like when the resin is beginning to harden? Also, so long as you fully screw in the black cap then the syringe is completely sealed off from the air outside?

So when you transfer OC2.0 to a spray bottle, put the unused portion in a cup to be sucked back into the syringe, won't the solution have already reacted with air?
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Optimum Coatings are very reactive so the syringe is the perfect "storage" solution. However, you can certainly transfer the coating to another device for application. The resin will harden in the sprayer if not returned to the syringe and will likely clog the nozzle if not removed before drying. Regarding reactivty, Optimum Coatings will polymerize in the presence of moisture...not air, but the moisture in the air. So you can leave it in a container for a week or so if it's small and sealed. We do recommend transfering it back to the syringe for storage.

Bunky said:
Agreed. I wonder if Optimum is working on a product like Eraser.
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Yes, I'm testing it now and it works well. It even seems to make the coating more reactive and it flashes a little faster in its concentrated version. I like this because I started out with the pro version and didn't care for how long the consumer version took to flash. It will most likely be dilutable up to 3:1 so you can tune it to your application.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
This is not a good idea, guys. OC has no lubricity, will flash faster via machine, and will likely allow the pad to mar as it becomes "tacky". OC should only be applied by wiping on, or by spraying on.
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Thanks for the feedback Chris.
Guess it is not a good idea for taking out the machine. Nevertheless the Opti-Coat is very easy to use so it is no big deal to wipe it lightly with hands :D
:bigups
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Optimum Coatings are very reactive so the syringe is the perfect "storage" solution. However, you can certainly transfer the coating to another device for application. The resin will harden in the sprayer if not returned to the syringe and will likely clog the nozzle if not removed before drying. Regarding reactivty, Optimum Coatings will polymerize in the presence of moisture...not air, but the moisture in the air. So you can leave it in a container for a week or so if it's small and sealed. We do recommend transfering it back to the syringe for storage.
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Thanks for the info Chris!!

So, when the coating is out, let's just say it starts the hardening process and it ends at around 3-5% before you transfer it back to the syringe. Since the polymerization already started, will it continue even if there's no moisture present? Or will it stop since there's no moisture?

As for the air bubble inside the syringe, will this start the hardening? I know that you need to remove as much air as possible but I don't think you can remove it completely. Will it, over time, harden the OC inside the syringe?

Do you have a picture of a coating inside the syringe that started to harden? So we know what to look out for?

What's an indication that the product has gone bad?
 
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvj80cB2HLc]Opti-Coat 2.0 Application - YouTube[/ame]

New video added at the end of the first post
 
Marc08EX said:
Thanks for the info Chris!!

So, when the coating is out, let's just say it starts the hardening process and it ends at around 3-5% before you transfer it back to the syringe. Since the polymerization already started, will it continue even if there's no moisture present? Or will it stop since there's no moisture?

As for the air bubble inside the syringe, will this start the hardening? I know that you need to remove as much air as possible but I don't think you can remove it completely. Will it, over time, harden the OC inside the syringe?

Do you have a picture of a coating inside the syringe that started to harden? So we know what to look out for?

What's an indication that the product has gone bad?
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If you have left over product that you've transfered into a bottle for application and you do not intend to use it in a few days, you should not wait a few days to transfer it back into the syringe...do that as soon as possible.

After returning a portion back into the syringe, you may need to check for the next few days to make sure there is not air forming inside. When exposed to the moisture in air (varies in climate and seasons) the product will give of gas as it polymerizes. If this happens in inside the syringe, the plunger will expand as a result. If the air is not released and the moisture content is high enough, the plunger can be forced out of the end and the product may be lost.

There won't be enough activity to make the product go bad or start to harden in the syringe, just watch to make sure the air doesn't expand..and just let it out if it does. You will only have to watch it for a couple of days after the transfer...any moisture should be neutralized by then.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
If you have left over product that you've transfered into a bottle for application and you do not intend to use it in a few days, you should not wait a few days to transfer it back into the syringe...do that as soon as possible.

After returning a portion back into the syringe, you may need to check for the next few days to make sure there is not air forming inside. When exposed to the moisture in air (varies in climate and seasons) the product will give of gas as it polymerizes. If this happens in inside the syringe, the plunger will expand as a result. If the air is not released and the moisture content is high enough, the plunger can be forced out of the end and the product may be lost.

There won't be enough activity to make the product go bad or start to harden in the syringe, just watch to make sure the air doesn't expand..and just let it out if it does. You will only have to watch it for a couple of days after the transfer...any moisture should be neutralized by then.
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Thanks for being an asset to this forum Chris! :bigups
 
Thanks to Todd and Chris for their insights into the uses of Opti-Coat. I understands O-C is designed for application to headlights, bumpers, wheels, trim and most aluminum and chrome surfaces in addition to the painted body, but not for glass. Would you apply O-C to the surface of the ultrasonic sensors located in bumpers as parking alert aids? Thanks, Henry. PS. My 1st post on Autopia; I really enjoy this forum.
 
Ingy said:
Thanks to Todd and Chris for their insights into the uses of Opti-Coat. I understands O-C is designed for application to headlights, bumpers, wheels, trim and most aluminum and chrome surfaces in addition to the painted body, but not for glass. Would you apply O-C to the surface of the ultrasonic sensors located in bumpers as parking alert aids? Thanks, Henry. PS. My 1st post on Autopia; I really enjoy this forum.
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I have and never had a problem. And you are very welcome!
 
Thanks for the write up Todd. I've been a little nervous about using this, but will try it out on my own vehicles first.
 
Do you know if this is good for single stage paint jobs? My parents have his & her Maxi Taxis: The orange one is gel coat, but the dark maroon one is single-stage paint and my dad obsesses over wanting to 'protect' the finish, but I've told him to hold off on waxing it and we might split a tube of opti-coat since it won't take much to do both Taxis.

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What is the difference between this product and the Opti-Glass? I purchased and used the OG just the other day. So far it works great. I'm spoiled by the factory glass coating on my other Lexus models.
 
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