Buffing/polishing

Danielsp12

New member
Ive got all my equipment to get me mobile detailing started. I worked at a detailing shop doing interiors and have done what I would consider very good jobs on car detailing in my past, but never for money. However Ive never learned how to properly buff/polish a vehicle. Could someone please give me a step by step instruction? I dont want to burn any finishes
 
Ive got all my equipment to get me mobile detailing started. I worked at a detailing shop doing interiors and have done what I would consider very good jobs on car detailing in my past, but never for money. However Ive never learned how to properly buff/polish a vehicle. Could someone please give me a step by step instruction? I dont want to burn any finishes



If you are new to polishing I would recommend starting with a DA vs. rotary polisher.

DA Polishers work by driving the orbit vs. driving the spinning motion, and although the difference may seem small, the outcome isn't. DA polishers allow begins (particularly when used in combination with modern polishes & pads) to achieve very good results with out damaging the paint. (Or at least reducing the risk of damaging the paint).
 
Check out some mike phillip videos on youtube about DA finishing. He makes them idiot proof. DAs are definitely the way to go for learning. Whats nice about them is you dont have to deal with splatter and taping the edges like you do on a rotary.
 
Keep it moving! Biggest mistake with polishing I've seen in the auto painting industry is someone holding the polisher still working on an imperfection. You will burn right through. If you are wet sanding first, step it out to as high of grit as possible. 3m wet dry paper goes to 2500. They do have 3000 grit, but in the Trizact line. Meguires has 3000 grit in the Unigrit line. Probably easier to get ahold of. Norton makes great sandpaper as well. If you are wetsanding, put a small drop of soap in your water bucket, the sanpaper will slide much smoother and help with suspending the dust in the water. Put some water in a mist bottle and give your pad a squirt or two when starting. Dont get in a rush. You want to work the product completely. When polishing you are actually heating up the clear in that area and allowing it to "flow". Thats what gives you the smooth look. You can hit the area quickly with your compound and it might look alright and you end up wiping off the rest and moving to the next step. You will still have the the blemish in the clear with the compound masking it. Over time it will show back up. Some other tips are to tape off trim, jambs, etc to keep from a long cleanup. With most products, a little goes a long way. When you start, keep the rpms slow to avoid slinging half of the product off. If you get compound or wax on the plastic trim that is textured, a small detail brush should be used to get in all the tiny voids to keep from the tell tell white spots. A rag will simply wipe off only whats on top. I personally like the larger buffers. I use Makita, there are many others. I know the Dewalt ones are great but they go through the brushes often. I always open up the handle and take the factory short cord off. I get a 50' extension cord and cut the female end off and wire it in. That way you never have to worry about remembering an extension cord, or the connection comming undone.
 
Keep it moving! Biggest mistake with polishing I've seen in the auto painting industry is someone holding the polisher still working on an imperfection. You will burn right through. If you are wet sanding first, step it out to as high of grit as possible. 3m wet dry paper goes to 2500. They do have 3000 grit, but in the Trizact line. Meguires has 3000 grit in the Unigrit line. Probably easier to get ahold of. Norton makes great sandpaper as well. If you are wetsanding, put a small drop of soap in your water bucket, the sanpaper will slide much smoother and help with suspending the dust in the water. Put some water in a mist bottle and give your pad a squirt or two when starting. Dont get in a rush. You want to work the product completely. When polishing you are actually heating up the clear in that area and allowing it to "flow". Thats what gives you the smooth look. You can hit the area quickly with your compound and it might look alright and you end up wiping off the rest and moving to the next step. You will still have the the blemish in the clear with the compound masking it. Over time it will show back up. Some other tips are to tape off trim, jambs, etc to keep from a long cleanup. With most products, a little goes a long way. When you start, keep the rpms slow to avoid slinging half of the product off. If you get compound or wax on the plastic trim that is textured, a small detail brush should be used to get in all the tiny voids to keep from the tell tell white spots. A rag will simply wipe off only whats on top. I personally like the larger buffers. I use Makita, there are many others. I know the Dewalt ones are great but they go through the brushes often. I always open up the handle and take the factory short cord off. I get a 50' extension cord and cut the female end off and wire it in. That way you never have to worry about remembering an extension cord, or the connection comming undone.

Great post. The one thing I would like to point out: While the bolded part may have been true in the old days lacquer based paints (even this is debatable), heat is actually an unwanted side effect from the friction created by polishing.

Polishes are actually ultra-ultra fine liquid sandpaper and the smooth look is created by leveling action of these ultra fine abrasives.


http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums...4-heat-good-even-needed-paint-correction.html
 
Personally, at this time, for a DA I would choose the Griot's Garage 6".
It has a lot more power than a PC7424xp and a lifetime warranty.

JMHO - Starter kit.

Machine:
GG 6" Polisher
5" backing plate

Pads:
6) 5.5" flat pads 2-Orange 2-White 1-Black 1-Blue

Polish:
Megs M105 (cutting) and M205 (finishing)
or
Menz SIP (cutting) and 106 (finishing)
or
Megs 5" MF (cutting disc-pad) and D300 (cutting)
and either one of the finishing polishes above.
IMHO Megs MF disc & D300 is cleaner than M105.

NOTE: You also need a Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Pad
Use it dry to clean the MF pad after each panel.

Last Step Product:
Blackfire Wet Diamond

Misc.
3) Foam (wax/sealant) applicator pads
6) Excellent quality microfiber towels
2) NEW clean (white) 5 gallon buckets
2) Grit Guard inserts
1) Quality wash mitt
1) Quality auto wash
 
Personally, at this time, for a DA I would choose the Griot's Garage 6".
It has a lot more power than a PC7424xp and a lifetime warranty.

JMHO - Starter kit.

Machine:
GG 6" Polisher
5" backing plate

Pads:
6) 5.5" flat pads 2-Orange 2-White 1-Black 1-Blue

Polish:
Megs M105 (cutting) and M205 (finishing)
or
Menz SIP (cutting) and 106 (finishing)
or
Megs 5" MF (cutting disc-pad) and D300 (cutting)
and either one of the finishing polishes above.
IMHO Megs MF disc & D300 is cleaner than M105.

NOTE: You also need a Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Pad
Use it dry to clean the MF pad after each panel.

Last Step Product:
Blackfire Wet Diamond

Misc.
3) Foam (wax/sealant) applicator pads
6) Excellent quality microfiber towels
2) NEW clean (white) 5 gallon buckets
2) Grit Guard inserts
1) Quality wash mitt
1) Quality auto wash

And we sell it at Autopia : Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher
 
Todd, how old do ya think I am?... Laquor! LOL!
That was a great article. I am glad to see someone on this forum know about aluminum oxide. One thing to note about that is the quality and shape of the cut relates more to the breakdown. A Norton rep who is in your neck of the woods in FL is the goddess of sandpaper knowledge. Ill search for her # for ya if you want it. What she taught me was using a higher grade and a more uniformed cut, along with the shape of the cut will make a sandpapers grit more uniformed so all the aluminum oxide wears at the same rate, and lasts longer. Cheaper paper wears faster, but wont give a uniformed scratch.

On clears, one thing to note is that most OEM clear is not catalyzed. Its baked around 800 deg. The paint and clear lines from the huge drums at factories can be up to 2 miles long before they reach the buisness end. Too risky trying to keep it from setting up in the lines and too expensive cause the pot life would be too short to do more than a few vehicles after traveling so far. The exotics are hand painted and will have the hardner used. All clears in the refinish world will have a "polish time". Thats what I was probably thinking about when posting. You can get fresh clear to reflow. Depending on the solids and solvents in the clear, it can off gas for days. I am used to always dealing with fresh paints, I gotta get my mind outta the body shops, lol. Ceramic clear is one that wont, even right out of the booth.

Todd, I am going to enjoy discussing with you. My wife just rolls her eyes at me when I talk to her!
 
Todd, how old do ya think I am?... Laquor! LOL!
That was a great article. I am glad to see someone on this forum know about aluminum oxide. One thing to note about that is the quality and shape of the cut relates more to the breakdown. A Norton rep who is in your neck of the woods in FL is the goddess of sandpaper knowledge. Ill search for her # for ya if you want it. What she taught me was using a higher grade and a more uniformed cut, along with the shape of the cut will make a sandpapers grit more uniformed so all the aluminum oxide wears at the same rate, and lasts longer. Cheaper paper wears faster, but wont give a uniformed scratch.

On clears, one thing to note is that most OEM clear is not catalyzed. Its baked around 800 deg. The paint and clear lines from the huge drums at factories can be up to 2 miles long before they reach the buisness end. Too risky trying to keep it from setting up in the lines and too expensive cause the pot life would be too short to do more than a few vehicles after traveling so far. The exotics are hand painted and will have the hardner used. All clears in the refinish world will have a "polish time". Thats what I was probably thinking about when posting. You can get fresh clear to reflow. Depending on the solids and solvents in the clear, it can off gas for days. I am used to always dealing with fresh paints, I gotta get my mind outta the body shops, lol. Ceramic clear is one that wont, even right out of the booth.

Todd, I am going to enjoy discussing with you. My wife just rolls her eyes at me when I talk to her!

Great post and thanks for the info.

Yes fresh paints (body shop mostly) have a polish window in which the paint may be reflowed to a certain degree. Once the solvents are gone, modern paint is pretty much plastic. Too much heat will melt it (or distort it) long before it flows.

I don't know how old you are but a lot of the old-time body men will speak of reflowing paint so it my natural inclination to assume.

I'm glad you are on AutopiaForums and look forward to mutual education and discussion. Your wife sounds like a very smart woman.
:bigups
 
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